Thursday, November 23, 2017

Prepare your body for winter: Baobab & babassu body butter with Simulgreen 18-2 (part two)

The other day, we spent some time getting to know each of the ingredients I like for this lotion, so let's make the darned thing already!

As an aside, thanks for commenting on the previous post! 

36% distilled water
10% aloe vera extract or liquid
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% glycerin
3% propylene glycol
2% hydrolyzed baobab protein
2% sodium lactate (liquid) or 1.2% sodium lactate (powder)
0.5% allantoin

12% baobab oil
10% babassu oil
4% Simulgreen 18-2
3% cetyl alcohol
0.5% xanthan gum

2% panthenol (liquid)
2% dimethicone (6 cs, which is very watery)
0.5% fragrance oil - vanilla bourbon FO from Voyageur Soap & Candle - or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

1. Weigh the heated water phase into a heatproof container. Measure the weight of the water phase and the container before putting it into your double boiler. (This is so we can compensate for evaporation after the heating and holding phase.) Place the container into a double boiler.

2. Weigh the heated oil phase into a heatproof container, then place into the double boiler.

3. When both phases have reached 70˚C, hold for 20 minutes, then remove from the heat. Measure the water phase and top it up with enough recently boiled distilled water to make up the weight of hte water phase before heating to compensate for lost water.

4. Pour the water into the oil phase, then mix with a stick blender for about 3 minutes. Then switch to a hand mixer with beaters.

5. When the lotion reaches 45˚C, add the cool down phase and mix well with the beaters again.

6. When it comes to room temperature, package in a tottle (Malibu) bottle or jar.

If you want to try this with Polawax, check out this post in the frequently asked question section of the blog about the 25% rule and this emulsifier. In short, total up all the things that need to be emulsified - oils, butters, silicones, fragrance oils, essential oils, fatty alcohols or acids, and so on - which would be 27.5% for this lotion. You'd then figure out what 25% of 27.5% might be (divide by 4), so you'd get 6.75%. I'd round that up to 7% to ensure I compensate for potential hand slips.

Modify the distilled water amount by removing 3% to compensate for the extra emulsifier, so you'd have 33% distilled water.

If you want to try this with emulsifying wax, you'd do the same thing as you'd do with Polawax, but add an extra percent at the end. So instead of 7%, you'd have 8%. Modify the distilled water amount by 4% to compensate, so you'd have 32% distilled water.

If you use these emulsifiers, you will have a far thicker product than what I've made here. You can see a version I made with shea butter and baobab oil in this post.

If you want to make other substitutions - that's the fun of making our own stuff! Check out the emollients section of the blog for more about each of the oils I mention on the blog and see what might be a good substitute for either babassu or baobab oils. Check out the humectants section to see what might work there or look at the preservatives section to see how you could use what you have at home.

Or join me in a few days to make lighter, fluffier version of this with Simulsol 165 (aka Lotionpro™ 165). 

Did you make this formula? If so, share your thoughts so we all have an idea of what it might be like to change something! (I'm trying to build a sense of community at this blog, and I'm sure you have something to contribute! Take a look at the bottom of this post to learn more!)


Debbie High said...

Thank you! I’ll be trying it this week!

Doris Bitler said...

Thanks for including the information about substituting emulsifiers! I want to try Simulgreen, but now I can make this with what I have on hand and do a comparison when the Simulgreen gets here :-)

Unknown said...

I love using lotionpro165, so I’m looking forward to your next post! Thanks!

Camirra Williamson said...

oh this formula looks nice! I think that I will try something like this but u as a night cream for my face.

Marcia said...

Thank you for including instructions for the other emulsifiers!

Febe said...

Two days ago my hands were totally dry and chapped because I was washing so many dishes by hand (I really should use the diswasher.....). Preparing for Thanksgiving was something I like to do, but not so much the clean up.

On top of the Thanksgiving sides I made, I also make a hand/body butter to heal my hurting hands even though I was very tired!

I searched through the blog for guidance on what to make and found your Winter Body Butter. I changed a few things to meet my liking and viola! It was GREAT! I used pumpkin seed oil, because I have some and need to use it and added 2% honey powder. I used half cocoa and half shea, hydrolyzed silk, Emulsifying Wax NF, and aloe vera gel - not juice. . My hands feel super! I tried it after my shower and still fabulous results! Just for fun, before trotting out to Black Friday shopping this morning at 5 AM, I tried some on my face. Well, yeah - it was still amazingly nice!

I do have a question though about using both dimethicone and cylomethicone in the Winter Body Recipe. Why would I use both and why would I use one over the other?? Quick comment: This was my first time using IPM which I really liked in this recipe. Yeah!

Looking forward to making this NEW recipe with baobab and babassu and Polawax (because I don't have Simulgreen). I like the idea of using honey as a humectant so I will probably experiment here a bit - with powder and actually honey.

About the propylene glycol in the baobab and babassu recipe - would propanediol 1,3 be a good substitute? I just got some and looking for somewhere to use it. ;).

Thanks so much!

Ambaro said...

Susan, I wondered if you had a chance to try another ECOCERT emulsifier called Emulium Mellifera (Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Jojoba Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Cetyl Alcohol)? Can't wait to try this formula out, thanks a bunch

glamaretto said...

Hmm, this makes me want to try a lotion with babassu oil. I've had some for a while but have only found time to try it on my skin straight, and it seems pretty nice. I do have a few body butters I need to make for xmas gifts... thanks for the inspiration!

Shabnam Askari Ashtiani said...

Great post like always; I can't wait to make this.

Desiree van Schaick said...

I would love to make this and other products with Simulgreen but I live in Holland and I can't find any supplier that sells it here.. Are there other people from Holland (or Europe) that get it and can tell me where to find it?

martacat said...

I made this recipe using the Simulgreen 18-2 (first time!) two days ago and am watching it. The lotion has to behave for two weeks before I have the confidence to use this emulsifier again in another product. After switching to the mixer (from Minipro Mixer), I blended continuously until the lotion reached 113 F (overkill?). I used a higher-viscosity dimethicone (350 cs), and replaced the baobab oil (have only 1 ounce) with chia seed oil, since the latter is less expensive and I have trust issues with any new emulsifier. It's a really nice lotion. I apply copious amounts on my hands (under cosmetic gloves) at night and wake up to incredibly soft hands.

martacat said...

Ms. van Schaick,
SR-Skincare in the UK sells 100 g for 5 pound sterling. I have no experience with this vendor.

Eija said...

This sounds good! I need to do some substitutions as I don't have some of the ingredients but will definitely try it for my sister's X-mas gift. Thank you!