Sunday, October 29, 2017

Pumpkin spice latte lotion with Penstia powder

We've had some fun with coffee butter over the last month. We made a whipped vanilla latte coffee butter for National Coffee Day in September, and made a pumpkin spice latte with Aristoflex AVC last Thursday.

I thought I'd alter Thursday's formula to include one of my new favourite ingredients, Penstia powder (INCI Name: Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer). The suggested usage rate for these silky, soft, creamy spheres is 3% in the oil phase to reduce tackiness and increase slip and glide. It absorbs oil well, so you can use it in make-up or cleansers to absorb sebum for oily skin types. We use high shear to incorporate it into our products, which means you want to use a stick or immersion blender or MiniPro Mixer.

As an aside, I'm finding that using these in an Aristoflex AVC lotion reduces the potential feeling of stickiness and increases the feeling of creaminess. I've been using it in a lot of things lately - try it with Sepimax ZEN for that creaminess - and I'm loving them! 

Penstia powder is super light and airy, so it has to be measured by weight as 1 ml isn't equal to 1 g in any way. This does mean you may need to get a smaller scale, but it's worth it. You can use something like the Salter diet scale I found at London Drugs that weighs to 0.1 grams or this little scale I found at Amazon.

I can't tell you the name of it as I don't remember, and I can't go into our order history as Raymond is already ordering birthday and Christmas presents for me, and I might ruin the surprise.

In this formula, I added it at the end of the lotion making process and mixed with my tiny mixer until it looked creamy.

80.5% distilled water
3% propanediol 1,3
2% sea kelp bioferment
2% panthenol (powder or liquid)
3% bamboo extract (liquid)

4.5% coffee butter

0.5% pumpkin patch, gingerbread, vanilla, or hazelnut cappucino fragrance oil or essential oil

1% Aristoflex AVC
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus

3% Penstia powder

Weigh the water soluble ingredients into a container. Mix the distilled water, propanediol 1,3, sea kelp bioferment, and bamboo extract.

Weigh the coffee butter into a small container, then heat until just melted.

Add the coffee butter to the water soluble stuff. (Do all of this quite quickly so it won't solidify!)

Add the fragrance oil, Aristoflex AVC, then preservative (Liquid Germall Plus) to the rest of the ingredients. Mix with an immersion blender or stick blender to get a good high shear mixer. After maybe 3 minutes, you're done.

Add 3% Penstia powder, then mix until uniform. Package in a cute pump bottle, airless pump (the white one is from Lotioncrafter), or a lip gloss tube (Windy Point Soap) if you want a titch to carry around in your purse. I find I need to use a small turkey baster or piping bag for the containers I used in the picture above.

You can use any FO (fragrance oil) or EO (essential oil) you wish as long as it is skin safe. Vanilla is lovely, as is gingerbread.

You cannot use a hydrolyzed protein in this lotion as it will lose viscosity.

All the ingredients I used you can find at Windy Point Soap in Calgary, Alberta. All but the bamboo extract and FO (fragrance oil) you can find at Lotioncrafter in Washington State, USA. I am not compensated in any way for mentioning these ingredients, and I receive nothing if you order from them. These are not affiliate links, either. I consider Michele and Jen to be good friends, so I like it when they make money, but I'm providing this information to you so you can get things to make this project. 

Have you made this? What did you think? What changes did you make? What will you try next time? Let me know what you're thinking in the comments below.


Kayak Kat said...

Sea kelp bioferment sounds interesting. You have inspired me to make notes for future projects. Thanks for your hard work! The facial cleanser & lotion I make my mother every year for Christmas was inspired by one of your posts.

BrNy said...

Can't wait to try this now that I have the Penstia powder! A question about Penstia: I believe you mentioned you like using it with Sepinov EMT based products... when would I add the penstia if I were to add it to a Sepinov lotion? At the very end of the recipe just like you did with Aristoflex? Thanks in advance,