Saturday, October 21, 2017
More comments and thoughts...
Check out the hair care section of the blog for more information.
Check out this post on a more complicaed leave in conditioner.
We heat and hold our anhydrous products because to help all the ingredients melt properly. Stearic acid has a melting point of 69˚C, so we need to heat and hold the recipe to ensure that it has time to melt. If we merely get to the point of having the ingredients melted - for instance, using a microwave - our ingredients might not be completely melted and integrated into the recipe. Even if we use cetyl alcohol - melting point around 49˚C - our butters contain a lot of stearic acid, so we need to get it up to about 70˚C and hold it to make sure that all the fatty acids in any ingredient melt properly. If you don't get it up to 70˚C and hold it, you can end up with unmelted stearic acid that can start to crystallize over time, hence the grains.
You can learn more about tempering your butters in this post.
Stop adjusting the pH of your lotions! Unless you're using something like AHAs or other acids, there's no need for it! I see people adding huge amounts of citric acid to products without testing, and it's not necessary!