The formula in question is this one, the rosehip & calendula moisturizer that uses Simulgreen 18-2 as the emulsifier. It's a light, non-greasy lotion that should sink in quickly.
NATURAL CALENDULA & ROSEHIP SEED OIL MOISTURIZER
HEATED WATER PHASE
46% distilled water
10% hyaluronic acid gel (0.1% HA LMW)
3% propanediol 1,3
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
1% sodium lactate (powder)
2% hydrolyzed quinoa protein
2% panthenol (powder)
HEATED OIL PHASE
5% rosehip seed oil
4% Simulgreen 18-2
2% behenyl alcohol
1% Sepilift DPHP
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
Everything in this formula is designed to be light and non-greasy feeling, including the emulsifier.
emulsifying wax with stearic acid. Emulsifying wax offers a medium greasy and waxy kind of feel, compared to the less greasy, almost powdery feeling of Simulgreen 18-2.
I've used behenyl alcohol to give it a powdery, non-greasy feeling. You're using stearic acid, which is waxy and draggy.
When you change the ingredients, you change the skin feel. If you made this using emulsifying wax and cetyl alcohol, it'll be a little slicker with more glide. Use cetearyl alcohol and you'll have a slick, waxiness. Use behenyl alcohol and you'll get that powdery feeling. And so on.
I chose squalane as it sinks in quickly and feels light, and non-greasy. If I chose to use olive oil, it'll feel heavier and thicker.
I always say in any lotion formula I create, you can change the oil for the oil, butter for a butter, oil for a butter, or butter for an oil without wrecking the chemistry of the product. But you'll radically alter the skin feel of a lotion if you substitute cocoa butter for babassu or shea butter for fractionated coconut oil. It's not a bad thing, but you can't expect alter things like that and not change the way it feels.
To return to your question - what can you do to make the product silkier?
- Choose a different emulsifier. Using something like Simulgreen 18-2 or Montanov 68 will make a silkier feeling product than Polawax or emulsifying wax. Simulsol 165/Lotionpro™ 165 makes a lotion feel lighter.
- Choose a different thickener. Stearic acid is a terrible choice as it's waxy and draggy. Instead, choose one of the fatty alcohols I list above
- Choose different oils. Choose ones that are non-greasy and light versus those that are thicker, and heavier. (Check out the emollients section to see what oils you might like.) Consider using silicones, like dimethicone or some of the new ones I'll be sharing more about soon. I bet one of the ingredients in your favourite store bought brand contains it!
- Add some occlusive ingredients. If you want something to stay on the skin for a bit, add a bit of cocoa butter or other butter, dimethicone, or allantoin to keep that feeling going for a while.