Wednesday, September 13, 2017

Weekday Wonderings: How can I make a lotion feel silkier?

In this post, Recipes from the conference: Rosehip & calendula moisturizer, rahaf mohammed asked: How can I make the final texture of the cream of the body to be soft and silk and have no greasy effect I use emulsifying wax with Stearic Acid and oils. I make it but the final result of the cream was not moisturizing it was only for minutes with a trace of oils. I want to make cream from scratch but its texture is silky and beautiful as a cream that we see in stores with a beautiful texture. 

The formula in question is this one, the rosehip & calendula moisturizer that uses Simulgreen 18-2 as the emulsifier. It's a light, non-greasy lotion that should sink in quickly.

46% distilled water
10% hyaluronic acid gel (0.1% HA LMW)
3% propanediol 1,3
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
1% sodium lactate (powder)
2% hydrolyzed quinoa protein
2% panthenol (powder)
0.5% allantoin

10% squalane
5% rosehip seed oil
4% Simulgreen 18-2
2% behenyl alcohol
1% Sepilift DPHP

5% Antarcticine
2% Regu-scence
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Everything in this formula is designed to be light and non-greasy feeling, including the emulsifier.

In your formula, you're using emulsifying wax with stearic acid. Emulsifying wax offers a medium greasy and waxy kind of feel, compared to the less greasy, almost powdery feeling of Simulgreen 18-2.

I've used behenyl alcohol to give it a powdery, non-greasy feeling. You're using stearic acid, which is waxy and draggy.

When you change the ingredients, you change the skin feel. If you made this using emulsifying wax and cetyl alcohol, it'll be a little slicker with more glide. Use cetearyl alcohol and you'll have a slick, waxiness. Use behenyl alcohol and you'll get that powdery feeling. And so on.

I chose squalane as it sinks in quickly and feels light, and non-greasy. If I chose to use olive oil, it'll feel heavier and thicker.

I always say in any lotion formula I create, you can change the oil for the oil, butter for a butter, oil for a butter, or butter for an oil without wrecking the chemistry of the product. But you'll radically alter the skin feel of a lotion if you substitute cocoa butter for babassu or shea butter for fractionated coconut oil. It's not a bad thing, but you can't expect alter things like that and not change the way it feels.

To return to your question - what can you do to make the product silkier?
  • Choose a different emulsifier. Using something like Simulgreen 18-2 or Montanov 68 will make a silkier feeling product than Polawax or emulsifying wax. Simulsol 165/Lotionpro™ 165 makes a lotion feel lighter. 
  • Choose a different thickener. Stearic acid is a terrible choice as it's waxy and draggy. Instead, choose one of the fatty alcohols I list above 
  • Choose different oils. Choose ones that are non-greasy and light versus those that are thicker, and heavier. (Check out the emollients section to see what oils you might like.) Consider using silicones, like dimethicone or some of the new ones I'll be sharing more about soon. I bet one of the ingredients in your favourite store bought brand contains it! 
  • Add some occlusive ingredients. If you want something to stay on the skin for a bit, add a bit of cocoa butter or other butter, dimethicone, or allantoin to keep that feeling going for a while. 
For a few more ideas, check out the men's section for ideas on how to make a lotion less greasy feeling or search for "less greasy" on the blog.


Michelle Kot said...

So, i see that you like Simulgreen, and no problem with it? I've used behenyl, but dont like the fact that it gets hard to fast, did you have this problem with behenyl and if so, how do you solve it?
Also what is the purpose of Sepilift DPHP in your formula?
Many thanks, Erica.

Srjnm said...

Thanks for this post. It makes for a good "job-aid" on more common emulsifiers and thickeners.

Kelli Spears said...

I also wanted a silkier feel in products and read on one of my supplier websites that it has an exceptional skin feel.(I believe it was The Herbarie). I had some on hand so I decided to give it a try and I really like it. I added Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) to my lotion and it has a much silkier feel. You can get it at The Herbarie, Lotioncrafter, Making Cosmetics and The Personal Formulator. It doesn't take much. I use it at 0.3% in lotion. I hydrate it in a portion of my water phase first for about 30 minutes or so and then add it to the heated water phase. I also added it to my conditioner and shampoo at a little higher percentage (0.5%). I really notice a difference and I will continue to use it unless I find something I like better. I'm always experimenting with ingredients. Give it a try and see what you think. Hope that helps anyone out there looking for an improved skin feel.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Michelle! I'm afraid I don't know what you mean. My lotion didn't get hard, it stayed liquid. And you can find out more about DPHP in this post.

Hi Keli! I just wrote about this ingredient. I'm not a fan of having to hydrate it for all that time, so it's not something I'd suggest, but it's great to know that you enjoy it!