Wednesday, August 9, 2017

It's too hot to craft: Cold process hair conditioners - part three with ICE Hair restore

On Monday, we met a new conditioning agent called ICE Hair Restore (aka Jeesperse ICE T CPCS or Gracefruit's EasyMix Smooth). And yesterday, we made a nice conditioner with it. But you know me - I have to play - so let's take a look at another version I'm loving!

83% distilled or purified water
5% ICE Hair Restore
3% Volumizing complex
2% Hydrolyzed baobab protein
2% panthenol (liquid)
2% dimethicone 350 cs
2% cyclomethicone
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
0.5% Pineapple cilantro fragrance oil (from Windy Point Soap)

Weigh the ICE Hair Restore out separately into a tiny container, then mix with my tiny stick blender until it's more of a paste, then I add it to the water and mix well. Weigh each ingredient into that same container, and stick blender after reach inclusion. You're done! Rejoice!

What did I do differently this time and why?

I used Volumizing Complex (from Formulator Sample Shop). (Read more on the blog here...)  I love this ingredient in my conditioners as it makes my hair feel bouncier and the ends of my hair a little less frizzy and a bit more curly. The INCI for this product is Water & Rice Amino Acids & Lactobacillus/Date Fruit Ferment Extract & Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluorethyl PEG Phosphate. The rice amino acids work like hydrolyzed proteins as film formers and hydrators with the smaller form being able to penetrate our hair shaft, the lactobacillus/date fruit ferment extract is something I have to study further, but it's the poly...thingie...phosphate that interests me the most! But I'm having trouble finding more information about this ingredient!

I found this in Cosmetics Business magazine about this ingredient. "It is claimed that the amino acids penetrate the cuticle, adding moisture and improving the strength of hair. The fluorinated material is said to bind to the hair, giving it bounce and volume, and the enzyme material converts saturated fatty acids in and on the hair into unsaturated fatty acids with a lower melting point, and these add shine and smoothness." This sounds really good, but notice the words "it is claimed..." or "is said...", which indicate that they're pretty much reporting a press release, not a study. Amino acids are good for our hair as film formers, and the enzyme material (the lactobacillus part) could be great for converting stuff, but this isn't evidence. The impression I get is that the poly-thingie-phosphate is a bit like Teflon for your hair - the hairs won't stick to each other, giving you more volume. (Don't quote me on that! It's just a thought...)

I'm using hydrolyzed baobab protein (from Lotioncrafter) as well as I love having film forming ingredients for my hair. Much like the hydrolyzed rice protein, it's designed to increase hydration of your hair as well as maintining elasticity. You can use another protein or amino acid, if you wish.

I'm using liquid panthenol in this formula, but you could easily use powdered panthenol at the same amount.

What can you do if you don't have some of these ingredients? In any conditioner I make, you can substitute anything water soluble for water at any point. You may change the viscosity or hair feel or something else, but the product will still work. You can substitute any protein for another protein and any oil or butter for any oil or butter. If you don't like silicones, there are silicone substitutes you can try or you can use an oil instead, although that may make your hair greasier than the version I'm making here.

What did I think of it? I love this stuff! I really liked the formula I shared with you yesterday, but this one makes my hair feel more hydrated than the other one, and my hair isn't feeling like straw on the morning of day three. I'm finding it's really easy to comb - which is not normal for me - even without my beloved cetrimonium chloride.

What did my bestie think of it? This is Wanda! Say hi to Wanda, everyone! Wanda has fine, colour treated hair that she also blow dries and straightens.

Here's what she had to say: I have fine hair but lots of it. The conditioner smells amazing. It's a spa on my head. It is thick and provides a good coating.  It rinses off leaving very little residue on my hair. Some may like their hair to feel coated after rinsing; I do not.  I don't want my oils stripped, but I don't want a lot of conditioner just sitting on my hair weighing it down. This does not weigh my hair down. I could easily get a fine tooth comb through it with no issues.  I blow dried my hair and it was not frizzy or fly away.

Pretty awesome, eh? It really is an interesting conditioning ingredient, and the fact that I can make it super quick with little effort is such a bonus!

What will I change next time? Really, you can't leave well enough alone, Swift? Nope! I don't think I'd have a blog if I had been perfectly content with my first conditioner!

This conditioning ingredient can handle up to 10% oils, so maybe we should add a few into the mix? Hmm, which ones should I choose. It's not like I don't have what seems like thousands from which to choose.

Join me tomorrow as we try using an oil or two in this cold process emulsifier. After all, it's not like it'll be all cold and lovely and wintery tomorrow, and we'll still want to make things cold!

Please note, I am not affiliated in any way with the companies I mention on this blog, other than I like their ingredients or like their owners. I receive no compensation for mentioning anything on this blog, and you will find no affiliate links or ads here. I do not accept or write sponsored posts. Just wanted you to know that. 


Jill Gatwood said...

Hi, I am anxiously waiting for part 4, with oils added. Did I miss it? I already ordered the ingredients! If I don't have a tiny stick blender, can I just use a wisk? Thanks, Jill Gatwood

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Jill! It'll be up on August 16th. Life got in the way of packaging and taking pictures this week. They're done now, and I'll write it up in the morning.

A hand mixer is good, too! You really need the power of an electronic device rather than hand whisking.