Tuesday, August 8, 2017

It's too hot to craft: Cold process hair conditioners - part two with ICE hair restore

Yesterday, we met a new hair conditioning ingredient, ICE Hair Restore (aka Jeesperse ICE-T CPCS or EasyMix Smooth from Gracefruit) INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium chloride (and) polyquaternium 37. It doesn't need to be heated and held to work, so it's perfect for these ridiculously hot days when going into your workshop to formulate with all kinds of bubbling double boilers and kettles is simply too much.

When I'm working with a new ingredient, I first check with the supplier to see if they have any information on the product. Then I look at their formulary to see if they have examples for how it might work. I generally try that formula first to get an idea of how it is supposed to work, then I create something myself. With a hair conditioner, I have a framework in which I try everything - 2% hydrolyzed protein, 2% panthenol, 2% cyclomethicone, 2% dimethicone, fragrance or essential oil, and 0.5% liquid Germall Plus - as I've been using this combination of ingredients for at least ten years, and I know the hair and skin feel of most of them. This gives me an idea if the new ingredient is more or less silky, glidy, moisturizing, hydrating, conditioning, detangling, and so on than my regular formulas.

In this formula, I used hydrolyzed rice protein as it can increase hair's elasticity and hydrates well. You can use any hydrolyzed protein you have at home at 2% or at the suggested usage rate.

I chose the fragrance I did as it really is my new Saturday night thing! It goes with everything and I just love it! You can feel free to use any fragrance or essential oil you choose as I haven't read anything that says anything is contraindicated with this conditioner.

86% distilled or reverse osmosis water*
5% ICE hair restore
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
2% hydrolyzed rice protein
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
0.5% fragrance oil - blood orange & goji berry (Windy Point Soap)

Remember, if you're making this without heating, you need to use purified water, not something from your tap or something full of minerals.

Into a container, weigh each ingredient, and stick blender after each inclusion. And you're done! (See note below...)

This product has a pH of 5.04, which is perfect for a hair conditioner.

I found my first try was a bit lumpy, as you can see in this picture. It was still nice on my hair, but it doesn't look great!

What I've done for subsequent batches is to weigh the ICE Hair Restore out separately into a tiny container, then mix with my tiny stick blender until it's more of a paste, then I add it to the water and mix well. It has made it much smoother and silkier.

What do I think of this? I absolutely love this conditioner! It's a nice viscosity in the bottle and on my hair, but I swear my hair felt lighter and less weighed down than when I use a similar recipe using Incroquat BTMS-50 or Rita BTMS-225, even though it contains cetearyl alcohol.

You'll notice that I don't have a humectant in the form of glycerin or propylene glycol in here, and the ICE Hair Restore doesn't contain one either. I have quite frizzy hair and I thought that would be a good thing for me, but I think I need to add a little something to the next batch as my hair didn't get those little ringlets at the end that normally show up in the warmer months as my hair dries more quickly, and I noticed that when I woke up on the morning of day three - I wash my hair every other day as I'm an oily girl! - they seemed a little stiffer and straw like than normal.

Please note, I don't think having frizzy hair is a bad thing. I like my hair to be a little less tamed and a little more wild, it's just that at a certain point, it can make your cuticle lift up, which can increase friction, which increases damage and breakage. I would never judge your hair style or rightness of your amount of frizz! 

It did make my tub a bit slippery, but I think that's because I use far more than I needed. A little went quite a long way.

I think this would be awesome for fine hair as it really doesn't weigh your hair down, and the lack of oils would be good for oily hair types. If you wanted to add oils, this ingredient can emulsify up to 10% oils, remembering that the cyclomethicone and dimethicone should count for 4% of that amount. (Try 5% coconut oil in this formula above and remove 5% of the distilled water amount to make that 81%. Or wait a few days to see the formula I created with it.)

I'm really quite happy with this...but you know me, I can't leave well enough alone. So join me tomorrow for another version of this conditioner with a few changes!

Please note, I am not affiliated in any way with the companies I mention on this blog, other than I like their ingredients or like their owners. I receive no compensation for mentioning anything on this blog, and you will find no affiliate links or ads here. Just want you to know that. 

1 comment:

Maria Perryman said...

I have used the Jeen ICE.. it is wonderful.. I have found a cheaper source chemistry store

It actually a real good..chemsoft conditioner base.