Wednesday, July 19, 2017

Recipes from the 2017 HSCG conference: Rosehip & calendula moisturizer (part two)

On Monday, we met a new emulsifier, Simulgreen 18-2, and yesterday we created a facial moisturizer with it. Let's spend some time looking at why I chose the ingredients I chose!

We have three phases: the heated water phase, which contains anything that is water soluble and can stand heat; the heated oil phase, which contains everything oil soluble that can stand heat; and the cool down phase, into which we put everything else.

Related posts:
How do you know into which phase you should add an ingredient?
Emulsification: What's that then?

As one of my humectants, I used hyaluronic acid at 0.1% in the heated water phase. I could add it at 0.1% to the water phase, or I could make the gel and use that at 10%, which works out to 0.1% active ingredient. (This formula is originally from Lotioncrafter and is used here with permission.)

98.5% distilled water
1% LMW hyaluronic acid powder
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

I sprinkled in the hyaluronic acid powder, mixed well by hand until the powder was wet, then left it alone for three hours and came back to a lovely looking gel! It should be completely clear and doesn’t feel sticky on your skin. You can use this neat or use this in products. (Using 10% hyaluronic acid gel = 0.1% hyaluronic acid in your product.)

I'm having a love affair with propanediol 1,3, a naturally derived substitute for propylene glycol that can be used at up to 20% in your water phase. As a humectant, it's dry and non-sticky feeling compared to glycerin. (I've been using it in so many different things as a humectant from micellar waters to lotions, and I love it so much!)

If two humectants are good, three might be better, so let's add some sodium lactate at 2%! (I'm using the 100% powder in this product, but you can use the 60% liquid, if that's what you have.)

You know I love my hydrolyzed proteins, so I've added hydrolyzed quinoa protein as a film former and skin conditioner. And I have to have allantoin at 0.5% as it's a great barrier protector as well as skin soother.

I’m a huge fan of panthenol, in this case powdered dl-Panthenol, Vitamin B5, which has been shown to help increase skin hydration and behave as a humectant and anti-inflammatory while helping skin’s wound healing properties. And I'm adding liquid calendula extract at 5% as an anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant.

In my heated oil phase, I have to have olive derived squalane, part of the unsaponifiable part of olive oil found in our skin so it sinks in quickly to moisturize. I've been using this as the base of just about every facial product I make as it's light and non-greasy. It leaves a nice dewy-ness to my skin that I don't seem to get with other oils.

As my oil, I like unrefined rosehip seed oil as it contains beta carotene, the precursor to Vitamin A, that helps with hyperpigmentation of our skin to promote a more uniform skin colour. It's light and non-greasy, which is a great thing for moisturizers! I used 5% as it's quite brightly orange, and I don't want to turn this into a custard! (Although facial custard does sound kinda nice, eh? Hmm...)

I added Sepilift DPHP (INCI: Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline), an ECOcert and Natrue certified ingredient at 1% to 2% in the heated oil phase as an anti-aging ingredient that may stimulate collagen synthesis to plump skin and lips.

Into the cool down phase, I added Antarcticine* (INCI: Water, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide), an ECOcert ingredient used at 3% to 5% to increase skin hydration, increase levels of collagen and elastin to reduce the depth and appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as enhance wound healing.

And I added Regu-scence* (INCI: Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract), an ECOcert ingredient used at 1% to 3% in the cool down phase to help create a more even skin tone and reduce the signs of aging, like thinner skin.

As the emulsifier, I chose Simulgreen 18-2 (INCI: Hydroxystearyl Alcohol and Hydroxystearyl Glucoside), which we met yesterday. To make it more stable, I need to add a fatty alcohol like cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. I added behenyl alcohol as a thickener and stabilizer at 2% in the heated oil phase as I like the dry, matte feeling it offers. You could use either of the other fatty alcohols, if you wish. Cetyl will make it a bit more oily - not a huge amount, but enough that you'll notice it - and cetearyl will make it a bit thicker and waxier.

Any time we use water, we need to use a preservative. My favourite is liquid Germall plus at 0.5% in the cool down phase as it’s a broad spectrum preservative that will help combat microbes like bacteria, yeast, and mold.

I know some of you are thinking about changing the preservative. You can do that, but make sure it's a broad spectrum preservative - meaning one that will combat all the potential contamination - and it can work with the ingredients we're using. Check out the preservative comparison chart in this post or the preservatives section to make sure it'll work with this formula. I know how it works with liquid Germall Plus as that's how I've made this quite a few times, but there's no guarantee it'll work with what you have. 

As a note, Jen from Lotioncrafter has been working with this moisturizer quite a lot. She has done a freeze-thaw test with it - she froze it and let it thaw three times to see if it would remain stable, and it did! - and has done a heated test with it. Through it all, this moisturizer passed with flying colours!

My presentation at the HSCG conference was very kindly sponsored by Lotioncrafter*. I'm so grateful to them for doing so much work to make sure it went well! Please note that I provide these links as a way of showing my gratitude. They aren't affiliate links, and I get nothing if you click through and buy anything. 

Here are the links to the ingredients at Lotioncrafter
Behenyl alcohol
Calendula extract
Hyaluronic acid, LMW
Hydrolyzed quinoa protein
Liquid Germall Plus
Propanediol 1,3
Rosehip seed oil, unrefined
Sepilift DPHP
Simulgreen 18-2
Sodium lactate, powder
Squalane, olive
Squalane, Neoessence

As a note, if you're a $10 subscriber to my Patreon page, Lotioncrafter is offering a 5% discount that's good to the end of the year, so if you're thinking about buying some ingredients, consider that this might be something that pays for itself! :-)

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at another recipe using Simulgreen 18-2!


Lorraine said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
rahaf mohammed said...

How can I make the final texture of the cream of the body to be soft and silk and have no greasy effect I use e wax with Stearic Acid and oils i make it but the final result of the cream was not moisturizing it was only for minutes with A trace of oils
I want to make cream from scratch but its texture is silky and beautiful as a cream that we see in stores with a beautiful texture

Sacred Paths Shakti Rose said...

Your blog is amazing!! I love your straight talk, humor, and of course, the sharing of your wisdom and experiments :)

I've grown tired of making fresh lotions that need to be refrigerated, and have begun research for "organic" and "natural" preservatives. I like this latest lotion that is nearly 100% all natural.
Can you give me a link to "organic" preservatives that you find are best for a small inspired herbalist, such as myself, that wants to keep my products as certified organic as possible?

Thank you for your time and knowledge!!
You really seem to know your stuff... I appreciate the informative DIY guidance and no BS approach! I keep coming back to see what you're brewing next.

Liz Tóth said...

Hi, Susan... love, love, love this info about the Simulgreen! I was so delighted to finally find a liquid crystal emulsifier, and I tried it with the Lotioncrafter formula, which turned out very nicely. I rejoiced! Then I got brave and tried fiddling with the formula a bit, and ended up with a total of 20% oils, 5% babassu oil, and 4% silicones (I also added 2% colloidal oatmeal, which may have contributed to the problem; maybe it's not a good candidate in Simulgreen lotions?). Anyway, it was similar to other lotions I have (succesfully) made with other emulsifiers. This time it turned into cottage cheese in the pot. Couldn't save it or even use it broken... looked like eraser shavings on my skin (my 2nd fail ever, and only a 50 g test batch, so... not too many tears). I had the cetyl alcohol and xanthan gum (3% and 0.5% resp.), and mixed as directed:70 deg. C, mixed with the teensy mixer for shear and then off the heat and continue with the beater... like I did it the first time, when it worked. So the question is: should i have used more of the Simulgreen given that there's more than 20% oils in the formula? I see everywhere that it can be used "up to 4%" and it looks like that works out to about 25% of the oils. I thought it would make sense to keep that ratio but used the 4% because EVERYTHING seems to say "2-4%". I haven't been able to find anthing about why, or what to do if there's more oil in the formula. So should there be a maximum 20% oils with Simulgreen? Or can there be more Simulgreen, or should I add a second emulsifier (say 1-2% Polawax, maybe - enough to emulsify the extra oils - I'd have to calculate that one) if there's more oil in there? Any input would be so welcome! Thanks!

Liz Toth

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Rahaf! I'll be posting a detailed response to your question on Tuesday, September 12th, 2017 The short answer is that you have changed the emulsifier and thickener to be ones that are waxy and thick. You need to try the formula with the emulsifier and thickener I've used to get the same skin feel I present.

Hi Sacred Paths. Thank you for your kind words. There are no organic preservatives, and a lot of the ones billing themselves as natural aren't working out as we had hoped when tested over time. Check out what I have in the preservatives section of the blog for more information. I will be testing a few more over the next few months, and hope to have more information shortly.