Thursday, July 13, 2017

Emollients: Rosehip seed oil

Rosehip seed oil (INCI: Rosa rubiginosa (rosehip) seed oil)
is a light, non-greasy feeling oil that not only moisturizes our skin but promotes a more even skin tone and may help with reducing the appearance of age spots or scars thanks to the beta-carotene, which is a pre-cursor to Vitamin A. It may also speed up wound epithelialization (increased formation of cells to help close the wound) and improve skin texture.

It has an interesting fatty acid profile with 15% oleic acid (Omega 9) to help soften and moisturize skin; 45% linoleic acid (Omega 6) to help speed up skin's barrier repair mechanisms; and 35% linolenic acid (Omega 3) and gamma-linolenic acid to help reduce inflammation and repair skin's barrier repair mechanisms. It has 0.5% phytosterols to help with inflammation, and 0.1% tocopherols to act as anti-oxidants.

The thing we like about rosehip seed oil is the tretinoin or all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA) at 0.335 ppm, which converts into retinol, which helps increase skin thickness, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

You can use it at up to 100% or neat on your skin, but given how orange it is thanks to that lovely beta carotene, I generally suggest no more than 10%. If you wish to use more, do a patch test somewhere on your body to see if it will stain. It is suitable for all skin types

This isn't rosehip oil! Click the link and read more about it. Rosehip seed oil is lighter and has more gamma-linolenic acid. 

It has a shelf life of 6 months, so keep it in the always popular cool, dark place or the fridge. The version we're using from Lotioncrafter* is cold pressed and unrefined.

I've been using in so many products lately, which you'll see shortly, but you can see it now in the anhydrous serum I posted last week!

Jen very kindly sponsored the workshop I presented at the Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetics Guild conference in Las Vegas in May 2017. The links I'm sharing for her shop are done as my thanks for that sponsorship and her ongoing support of the blog. They aren't affiliate links and I get nothing for sharing them with you. Just wanted you to know that! 

Colin's Beauty Pages

Functional Botanicals – their chemistry and effects
Anthony C. Dweck BSc CChem FRSC FLS FRSH

Specialty Fatty Oils for Healthy Skin
Author: Dr. K.-W. Quirin, Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH, Rehlingen, Germany


terriblybadgrrl said...

Thank you for posting about this particular oil I own and would always want to know more about!
As for Jen, and Lotioncrafter, I'm grabbing the opportunity to express my love for. My favorite supplier, the very first I go to check and order from. I'm certain most of the already know and most possibly agree with my gushing , but for those who aren't familiar with Jen and Lotioncrafter, I can't recommend enough.
Exceptionally professional yet down to earth and HONEST description and info.
Absolutely superb customer service, especially in my email correspondences with Jen. I always fear I'm overstretching my welcome, as I've tons of questions which aren't necessarily about the specific products. I never know how Jen finds the time/energy/generosity, to very thoughtfully reply and enlighten.
I must add, that I'm no big spender, nor am I sadly able to order very often at all. That, I'd say, compounds the great admiration and gratitude I have for Jen and Lotioncrafter!
THANK YOU, JEN, and as always, THANK YOU, SUSAN!

Elise M. said...

Thank you for such great content, as always! Can you confirm if this ingredient is comedogenic or not? I feel like I've seen issue with my clients and it's not been tested as far as I know (referencing Dr. Fulton's 1989 comedogenic study...). Thank you!

Elise M.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi terriblybadgrrl! Thank you for your very kind words about Lotioncrafter. Isn't Jen amazing?

Hi Elise! I'm afraid so many of these comedogenicity charts are out of date as they're using the Draize rabbit ear test model rather than human skin tests. I have loads of information on this topic if you do a search for "comedogenicity".

Here are a few links...
Emulsifiers and comedogenicity
Comedogenicity: What does that mean?