Friday, July 14, 2017

Emollients: Plum kernel oil

I admit it, I'm in love with plum kernel oil (INCI: Prunus domestica seed extract). It's light, non-greasy, and smells absolutely of almonds, although I think it's more like marzipan, which I adore! On top of all of that, it has a richness I generally only find with thicker oils. (It reminds me of pomegranate oil as it has an  unctuous silkiness!)

It has a lovely fatty acid profile - 4% to 9% palmitic acid; 70% oleic acid (Omega 9), which softens and moisturizes skin; and 20% linoleic acid (Omega 6), which helps speed up skin's barrier repair mechanisms.

It's a little low on the phytosterols at up to 125 ppm and it has around 180 ppm beta-carotene, the pre-cursor to Vitamin A. It has 0.5% unsaponifiable matter with around 800 ppm squalane. It contains around 700 ppm tocopherols to behave as anti-oxidants, which is quite a lot, hence the longer shelf life.

Use at 1% to 10% in any product you wish in which you could include oils. I'm loving it in light lotions as well as facial sera as it sinks in fast and feels less greasy! It has a shelf life of two years - I know, right, incredible! - but always keep it in a cool, dark place or fridge. The version from Lotioncrafter* is cold pressed.

You can see this oil in action in the anhydrous facial serum I presented at the Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetics Guild conference in Las Vegas in May 2017, as well as some upcoming recipes!

Thanks so much to Jen at Lotioncrafter for sponsoring that presentation. The links you see here to her shop are not affiliate links and I receive nothing if you click through or buy something from her. I present them as my thank you for all her support of the blog and of that presentation. 

PubMed link
Plum oil
Evaluation of bio-active compounds...
Data sheet


Lani said...

Just checking to see if it matters that Lotioncrafter's plum kernel oil isn't organic? I really try to just buy organic when using on my face or body, however, since this is from the kernel does it matter?

Thank you in advance,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lani! What does an organic oil possess that a non-organic oil offers? I'm just curious because I've never found anything to indicate that there are benefits for our skin or hair when using organic oils. Having said this, given it's the kernel, I wouldn't worry about the oil being organic.