Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Recipes from the 2017 HSCG conference: Sweet almond & pomegranate oil anhydrous serum

I've had such great feedback on this serum, so I'm pleased as heck to share it with you. I'll share the recipe with you today, then go into more detail about each ingredient over the next few days, including some of these new and exciting oils!

My goal for any oil based facial serum is to use a combination of non-greasy and light oils that will sink in quickly leaving behind a matte finish. I want something that will make my skin feel dewy and moisturized without being greasy. This serum offers all that and more! 

My first thought is always about using squalane as it’s made for products like this! It's a great base as it's light and sinks in quickly, leaving behind a lovely feeling of moisturization without loads of shine. 

I think cold pressed chia seed oil would be a lovely addition as it’s filled with alpha-linoleic and linoleic fatty acids, which are fantastic at helping skin’s barrier repair mechanisms as well as moisturizing. It contains a lot of phytosterols, which reduce inflammation, and quite a lot of tocopherols or natural anti-oxidants. 

I added rosehip seed oil at 10% to get some of those lovely properties without too much orange. (When it comes to oils like this, always consider that it could be orange on your skin! Do a patch test before adding them at huge quantities.) 

I added sweet almond oil to the mix as it’s full of oleic acid, which softens and moisturizes skin, and some plum oil for its amazing fragrance as well as its non-greasy but rich skin feel, loads of anti-oxidants, and tons of phytosterols

This might seem like an unusual choice for me as I rarely use it, but Lotioncrafter has an unrefined version that feels less greasy and a little thicker to me than the usual version. I'm really enjoying it, and you'll see me using it more often in the coming months as I've been experimenting quite a bit with it! 

In facial products, I always try to add a little pomegranate oil to the mix for the punicic fatty acid that helps with wound repair and skin cell regeneration as well as its ability to help with wind chapped or sunburned skin. It has a dry, non-greasy, light feeling on your skin, and you can use it in all kinds of facial products to impart that feeling. It really is one of the most decadent oils I've ever used, which is suprising given how light and non-greasy it feels. 

I've added tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate*, an oil soluble Vitamin C, to promote a more even skin tone. You could use this at up to 10% in this serum, but always start with lower levels to ensure it works well with your skin type. 

Why use this version over another? Vitamin C isn't really a stable ingredient on its own, so using something like this means it won't oxidize quickly and ruin both your product and itself. 

I’ve used Vitamin E as a skin softener and moisturizer as well as an anti-oxidant to retard the rancidity of our oils. In this recipe, I added tocopherol acetate*, which can be used at 0.5% to 5% in a product. If you're using something like T-50, note that the usage rate is much lower at up to 0.5%. To use more of the latter, you may actually speed up oxidation of your oils, so know which kind you have and use it at the suggested usage rate. 

Finally, I added Collageneer* (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil and Lupinus Albus Seed Extract), an oil soluble ingredient used at up to 2%, as an anti-inflammatory and to help with the signs of aging by stimulating production of collagen. 

30% squalane
20% chia seed oil
15% sweet almond oil, unrefined
10% rosehip seed oil
10% plum oil
10% pomegranate oil
2% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (oil soluble Vitamin C)
2% Collageneer
1% Vitamin E (I’m using tocopherol acetate)

Into a container, weigh all the ingredients. Shake or mix lightly, then pour into a bottle with an eye dropper or a small treatment pump. Make a small batch - no more than 100 grams, and even then I'd suggest making 50 grams to start - as this will last quite a long time! 

I'm not using a preservative in this product as you don't need to use one if the product is anhydrous or water free, which this product is. (You also need to add a preservative if the product will be exposed to water.) 

As I've mentioned previously, my presentation at the conference was sponsored by Lotioncrafter, and you can get all the supplies for these products there. These are not affiliate links and I get nothing if you click through and buy something. I provide them as a thank you to Jen at Lotioncrafter for supplying everything necessary to do the presentation and more! She went over and above the call of duty as she had to Uber to Wal-Mart to get a mixer in the horrible Vegas heat! 

As a note, if you're a $10 subscriber to my Patreon page, Lotioncrafter is offering a 5% discount that's good to the end of the year, so if you're thinking about buying some ingredients, consider that this might be something that pays for itself! :-) 

Here are the links to the ingredients at Lotioncrafter...
Pomegranate oil, cold pressed

Join me tomorrow as I go into more detail about some of these new oils! 


Cynnara said...

I recently bought the neoessence hemisqualane and d love to see more on it. I love how light it is on my skin. I'm discovering that I like that light and easy feeling on my face.

Odяα¥ said...

Oh my god I juat discovered your blog and I am so excited! What a massive amount of information here, I don't know where to start! Thank you so much for sharing all of this, I believe you will make my beginnings in the lotion-making world much easier!