Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Recipes from the HSCG 2017 conference: Niacinamide & willow bark hydro-gel - part three, the recipe and modifications

Yesterday, we met a new gelling agent in the form of Sepinov EMT 10, and Monday we took a look at the ingredients we're using in this recipe. Today, let's look at the recipe and some modifications we can make to it!

74.5% distilled water
5% willow bark extract (liquid)
4% niacinamide (powder)
3% propanediol 1,3
3% sea kelp bioferment
2% n-acetyl glucosamine
2% panthenol (powder)
2% chamomile extract (liquid)
0.5% sodium lactate (powder)
0.5% allantoin
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

3.0 % Sepinov EMT 10

In a container that’s big enough to use the stick blender or hand mixer in, combine all the water phase ingredients. Sprinkle the powder over the water, then mix well with a stick blender or hand mixer until it gels. You’re done! Rejoice!

Wow, that was super easy, right? 

If you want to alter this recipe, please note that niacinamide needs to have a pH around 6, so we can’t add any acids, like salicylic acid or AHAs, or ingredients that might need to have a lower pH. 

A few combinations that might be nice…
Use this as a targeted treatment by adding 3% to 10% argireline into the water phase. 
Try using this as a targeted or all over treatment by dissolving 1% genistein into 3% glycerin (use in place of the propanediol 1,3). 
5% Fision Active White for a little of everything to help with skin brightening. 
Add 10% any oil or oil soluble ingredient to this recipe to make a cream gel. I really like squalane in this recipe. (I'll be posting that version shortly...) 
Add a fruit acid complex at up to 10% to add some AHA ingredients. If you do this, please remove the niacinamide at 4% from the recipe as per my note above. 

If you have Sepimax ZEN, you can use it in place of Sepinov EMT 10 in this recipe. It may be quite thick at 3%, but give it a try. 

Or join me tomorrow and the next day as we look at some awesome modifications of this recipe! 

Links to buy these ingredients at Lotioncrafter:
Willow bark extract
Chamomile extract
Sodium lactate
n-acetyl glucosamine
Propanediol 1,3
Sea kelp bioferment
Sepinov EMT 10
Liquid Germall Plus

Please note, I supply these links to Lotioncrafter as my thanks for sponsoring my demonstration at the HSCG conference. These are not affiliate links and I receive nothing if you click through or if you buy ingredients from that shop. I have them here to make it easier for you to find things as well as showing my gratitude for Jen's generosity! 

If you're interested in learning more about gels using Sepinov EMT 10 and simply can't wait for me to post things on this blog, please check out the e-zine I wrote on the topic, entitled Gels! Ooey, gooey fun! which includes recipes for Ultrez 20 and Sepimax ZEN. 

Oh, as a note, if you're a $10 subscriber to my Patreon page, Lotioncrafter is offering you a 7% discount on ingredients until Saturday, June 10th! Pretty awesome, eh?

Join me tomorrow for more fun modifying this recipe! 


Mamacitas Taqueria said...

Hi Susan!
Thank you so much for your recipes and knowledge. I wanted to ask about adding squaline to this recipe. I know that you said you would post a version that included this ingredient, have I missed it? Also, I'm wondering about adding the hyluronic acid and panthenol gel that I made from Lotioncrafter's formulary. Would that work in this recipe at 10%?

Kelly Stevens said...

Hi Susan, I just ordered everything I needed for this (I thought) but I didn't notice it called for sodium lactate powder. I have liquid - can I use that instead? If so at what amount?


Kelly Stevens said...

Sorry, please disregard my question - I re-read Part One and found my answer.


Pooky said...

Hi Susan,

I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge with us and for opening my eyes; I used to be a "Preservatives are bad" type of person (thank God that was before I started making my own cosmetics) and now I am a converted!

I would like to ask you is part of the water in this recipe can be substituted by aloe vera.

Thank you!

BrNy said...

Hi Susan, I made this today and it's lovely... but sticky (which doesn't bother me horribly) so I was wondering if that's how it's meant to feel. I followed the recipe to a T and used the mini pro-mixer to incorporate the ingredients together (I mixed it for a good minute until I felt it was well mixed enough.) It became nice and thick but sticky - I put the lotion on my face and 30 minutes later the stickiness was finally going away. Like I said, this doesn't bother me much but just wanna make sure it's ok to use the product this way. I wonder if the sea kelp or propanediol made it this sticky or this is how products made with Sepinov feel like. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

PS: I bought your Gels! e-zine and I'm so excited to learn to make more stuff.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi BrNy! No, it's not supposed to be sticky. You can use the product if it's sticky, but that isn't the intended skin feel. The propanediol 1,3 isn't a sticky feeling ingredient: If you try it neat, you'll notice it's weirdly dry feeling for a liquid. Gels aren't inherently sticky, and that skin feel comes from what we add to them. Sepinov is quite creamy to the touch, I find. If you followed the formula exactly as written and used all the same ingredients I did from Lotioncrafter, then I'm stumped. It might just come down to a difference of opinion of what "sticky" means. Or it could be it's quite humid where you are or less humid than where I live or other factors.

BrNy said...

Hi Susan, thanks for your reply! By sticky I mean really tacky, like "my eyelids stick to the top of my eye when I open them big" tacky. I did feel the propanediol and yes, it's pretty much water (by the way it feels) It is pretty humid here in Pennsylvania at this time of year but our house is usually pretty cool and I have been applying it at night when the weather cools off even more. I will try to make this without sea kelp I think... I applied the sea kelp neat on my face and it felt just as sticky as the Sepinov serum. I will tweak things a bit and report back. Is there anything I can use in place of sea kelp bioferment to film form and moisturize?
Thanks for your time,

BrNy said...

Hi there, I got the chance to make a very simple gel with EMT 10 and water ONLY to see how that felt on my skin... and I looove it! It does not feel sticky at all... maybe a bit upon application but in a matter of seconds my skin dried to a nice and silk feel, which brings me now to figure out which ingredients I'm adding that might feel too tacky to my taste. I used all Lotioncraft ingredients so I'm stumped as well as to why my water + sepinov feels so nice and my finished gel product with other ingredients feels so tacky. Any ideas? I know I just posted another comment just las night but since I got to make the stripped down version of the gel today I thought I'd report back.

JCRG said...

Hi, I've recently come across this awesome chemical and cosmetic blog, and I'm going nuts because there's a lot of science being done here (I am a recently graduated Physician with high interest in self preservation of skin).

Recently I've been trying to research what ingredients would be useable to make a Gel Moisturiser with 2-3% Salicylic Acid (SA), but so far I haven't found any conclusive (or secretive?) information.

Do you know any gelling compound that remains stable in the low pH's (4 to 5)? This to both enhance the amount of Free Acid Value of the SA, whilst also make it closer to the skin's pH.

Thanks and best regards!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi JCRG! Welcome to the blog. Have you taken a look at the other gelling agents on the blog, like Sepimax ZEN? I'll be writing about using saliclylic acid in all kinds of products in this month's e-zine on Patreon, which will be available for sale next month on the blog here.

JCRG said...

Thanks for the welcome ^^

I've certainly looked at the two gelling agents mentioned in this blog that are compatible with low pH's, however, I am saddened to discover that they aren't eligible for shipping to my country! Woe is me!

The only things I've managed to find are Gum Arabic, Sodium Hyaluronate and Carbopol, and I don't think any of them are really suited for what I am trying to achieve, though I'm still willing to try the Hyaluronic route.

Pooky said...

Hi Susan,

Though I am not aiming for a low pH, I have the same problem as JCRG. It is amazing how difficult it is to get certain ingredients (I live in Europe). I am thinking of using agar or guar gum...

Pooky said...

Hi Susan,

It is me again... I finally did the recipe. I had to substitute the Sepinov EMT 10 for GelMaker Ultra (Endicare ETP-500). I used 3%.

I am happy with the final result, but I must confess that the I was not expecting the "peculiar" smell of the chamomile (hahaha!).

Thank you very much for the recipe!!