Friday, March 24, 2017

Plumping peppermint & jojoba oil lip scrub

On Wednesday we looked at making a fractionated coconut oil lip scrub. Yesterday, we altered the recipe to be all about the jojoba oil and peppermint essential oil. Today, let's look at an anhydrous or non-oil containing ingredient we could add to this recipe.

Confession: I've been playing with so many active ingredients over the last year in anticipation of writing a new e-book on the topic. You'll see a great many of them here, along with tons of new recipes. I just have to find time to take pictures to make them look all pretty! 

Dehydrosome plump (from Formulator Sample Shop*) is Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil & Lecithin & Yeast Extract. It's an oil soluble liquid we use in our products at 1% to 10%. The claims are that it can plump your lips by reducing transepidermal water loss

The lecithin is filled with phosolipids or phosphatides, and all kinds of lovely fatty acids. In our cosmetic ingredients, lecithin can come from a number of sources like soy, egg, or sunflower oil. The soy and the egg lecithin do differ a little. The soy has a fatty acid profile of 20% palmitic acid (C16), 4.3% stearic acid (C18), 11.4% linoleic acid (C18:1), 56.6% linolenic acid (C18:2), and about 7% linolenic acid (C18:3). The egg lecithin contains 30% palmitic acid (C16), 15.9% stearic acid (C18), 26.4% oleic acid (C18:1), 16.2% linoleic acid (C18:2), and no linolenic acid. It does, however, contain arachadonic acid at about 6%. Both of these contain little to no Vitamin E, but they contain B vitamins (choline, Vitamin B8), and they contain 60% to 70% phospholipids (made up of the fatty acids listed above). Most of what we find on our suppliers' shelves is the soy version of lecithin, but if you're vegan or have any restrictions on your diet, ask before buying.

Choline has been shown to increase skin hydration, so it can act as a humectant to bring water our skin. In one study, the application of lecithin to skin increased water retention by 40% and it lasted about 2.5 hours! Another ingredient in lecithin - inositol - has been shown to decrease trans-epidermal water loss in  animal studies. It's also been shown to increase moisture retention in our hair. And it's an anti-oxidant - it's three great things in one!

Lecithin is considered a great moisturizer with those high levels of oleic and linoleic acids, which will moisturize and help restore a damaged skin barrier. The stearic acid is also very moisturizing!

Lecithin can act as an anti-oxidant in our products, scavenging to prevent lipolytic rancidity at 0.01% to 0.25%. It can help boost the efficacy of Vitamin E and Vitamin C as anti-oxidants (science isn't really sure why this is...)

Yeast extract is filled with B vitamins and amino acids, while the sunflower oil is a lovely, light feeling but a bit greasy emollient.

In this recipe, I've used 4.3% Dehydrosome Plump in place of some of the jojoba oil. You could use up to 10% in any lip scrub recipe you chose to make. If you don't have it, just replace the 4.3% with another oil or oil soluble ingredient you like. This recipe is the same as yesterday's lip scrub with the tiny change of the dehydrosome plump ingredient.

69.5% finely ground or berry sugar
17.1% golden jojoba oil
8.7% fractionated coconut oil
4.3% Dehydrosome plump active ingredient
0.4% peppermint essential oil

If you don't have berry sugar, put your sugar into a coffee grinder and blend for maybe 10 seconds to produce a fine sugar. You don't want to grind it too long as you'll end up with powdered sugar, which won't scrub that well. (Ask me how I know this!)

Into a container, weigh the jojoba oil, fractionated coconut oil, and peppermint essential oil, and mix well. Add the sugar, mix until it is like wet sand, then spoon into your container.

Package this in a small container - I'm using 30 ml jars from Voyageur Soap & Candle* - and use a small spatula* or spoon to remove it from the container to put on your lips.

I've seen people using things like cinnamon or clove essential oil to plump up lips by annoying the heck out of them. I haven't tried that as I'm pretty sensitive to those kinds of things, so I really don't have an opinion of doing it that way.

I've been testing an ECOcert, oil soluble ingredient called Sepilift DPHP* (from Lotioncrafter) that I'll tell you more about next week as I finalize some of the recipes I've been working on and hear back from my testers.

Please note, clicking on a link with an * beside it takes you to another site. I am sharing these links as these were the things I used and I thought I'd do it rather than having someone ask me. These are not affiliate links, and I don't receive anything if you click on them and buy something. I'm just sharing because I'm big fans of these sites! 


Skylar said...

So, Susan, what do you think? Does it noticably plump the lips or is it more of a marketing thing?


susan said...

I like citrus and coniferous flavors, as a base for a blend of essential oils