Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Newbie Tuesday: Gels, gels gels! Lavender & chamomile oil free gel moisturizer for normal skin types

You shared your opinion here, by e-mail, and on my new Facebook page for the blog, so we'll be spending a few more weeks on creating gelled products with Ultrez 20 and Sepimax ZEN

Last week we took a look at adapting a toner to become a gelled toner by incorporating Ultrez 20 into your recipe. But you could make a gel, then add your ingredients to it after the fact, as I did in this post. (I'm altering the recipe, though, because it contains a whole bunch of ingredients that don't get along with Ultrez 20. I've learned a lot since 2009!)

MAKING A THICK GEL WITH ULTREZ 20
96.5% distilled water
1.2% Carbopol Ultrez 20
1.6% triethanolamine or 18% lye solution*
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Add your Ultrez 20 to water and mix gently to get all the flakes wet. You'll know they're wet enough when they are transparent or clear in the container, like the picture to the left. Let sit for 3 to 5 minutes, then add the TEA or 18% lye solution. Mix well. If you'll be storing the gel as is, please add the liquid Germall Plus or other suitable preservative. If you will be using it right away in other products, leave it out and incorporate a preservative into the next recipe.

The following recipe is great for normal skin types.

LAVENDER & CHAMOMILE OIL FREE GEL MOISTURIZER
LIQUID PHASE
30% lavender hydrosol
2% glycerin
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

POWDER PHASE
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% allantoin

GEL PHASE
64.5% thick gel

Weigh your liquid phase into a container, mix well, then add the powdered chamomile extract and allantoin, and mix well until dissolved. Add the rest of the ingredients in any order, mix well, then pour into a bottle to be used as a toner or oil-free moisturizer.

If you feel this is too thick, add 10% more distilled water or other liquid, mix well, and see what you think. Or substitute 10% aloe vera for 10% of the distilled water as this will thin it down quite a lot.

And if you don't like the slightly brown colour of this recipe, I encourage you to use chamomile hydrosol in place of the brown coloured extract at up to 10% of the water amount.

If you don't like chamomile extract - although I'd encourage every skin type to use itconsider another powdered extract in its place. or add another one at the suggested usage rate. I really like using chrysanthemum extract as an anti-inflammatory ingredient, but there are loads of choices you could make. (We'll take a look at some variations over the next few days.) Check out the extracts section of the blog for more information!

To answer the question I know will be posed in the comments - the difference between last week's toner and this week's oil free gel moisturizer is..well, nothing. They both contain hydrating ingredients, hydrosols, extracts, and so on. The difference is that I tend to wipe off a toner and leave a moisturizer on my skin.

Join me tomorrow as we adapt this recipe for dry skin types!

Related posts:
Gels (revised for 2013)
One ingredient, five products: Gels
One ingredient, five products: Gels - making an aloe vera gel
How to make an eye liner sealant with gels
Formulating an under eye gel: Raymond's creation
Oil free gel moisturizer or make up remover with PEG-7 olivate
Gels: Hair styling products
Gels: Surfactant-y fun with gardener's hand scrub
Gels: Make a gelled toner
Gels: Hand sanitizer

If you'd like to play along or if you've missed a post, here's a listing of the complete series...
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet the surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part one) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part two) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser by adding chemical exfoliants
Modifying your facial cleanser into a foamer bottle recipe
Creating a facial toner (part one)
Creating a facial toner (part two)
Creating a facial toner (part three) - cosmeceuticals
Creating a facial toner (part four) - adding cosmeceuticals
Gels, gels, gels! Ultrez 20
Gels, gels, gels! Sepimax ZEN
Making a gelled toner with Ultrez 20

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