Thursday, November 3, 2016

What ingredients do you love?


I'm experimenting in the workshop with various emulsifiers and gellants, and I'm wondering what ingredients interest you? What would you love to try on your face, body, hair? What do you spend the big bucks on or what fancy thing caught your eye? I'm curious to know what you like or want to know more about, so post your thoughts here. (If you can post a link to where you found it or bought it, that would be awesome!) I can't wait to see what you suggest!

22 comments:

Unknown said...

Oooh good question Susan! Here's two few things that I splurge on an would love to make a version of at home.

(1) I like silicone based makeup primers, I'd love to know how to make one. An example would be Smashbox's primer here:http://www.sephora.com/photo-finish-foundation-primer-P9889?skuId=1349968&icid2=products%20grid:p9889

(2) Fresh's "Rice Sake Bath": http://www.sephora.com/rice-sake-bath-P12857?keyword=sake%20bath&skuId=1032762&country_switch=ca&_requestid=226709. At about $100 per bottle, for what is essentially just really good smelling foaming bath, I would love to figure out if there is a way to incorporate Sake into a bubble bath product at home as it sounds so luxurious.

Kaylee

electrikat65 said...

I love the BTMS-50 in everything, but it is kind of spendy per pound. I would like to know or find a way to mix it(percentage wise) with something less expensive, like E-wax, and still get all of the awesomeness of skin feel from the BTMS-50 and still have a good emulsion(I use cetyl alcohol with it anyway too). I too would love to know how to create a good face primer that doesn't involve mixing cornstarch with aloe gel(yes, I've actually seen that on the internet). I've been adding the CETAC to my hair products at your suggestion and the IPM to the hand products and those are fantastic. Amazing really. I've seen you mention/post about the emulsifiers that don't require heating/holding but the price on that is even worse than the BTMS-50. I'll have to wait for that to come down a little bit. I am also a silicone lover, the cyclomethicone/dimethicone double whammy in anything is amazing for me. I have scoured all of your e-books and have been picking and choosing on the oils to get the best of both worlds and still stay within a budget. Learning that I can use a really inexpensive oil like soybean oil(great stats too) and use a very small amount of IPM and it becomes this luxurious feeling hand cream. I know you don't talk about it much but I make a truly excellent thick hand crème with soybean oil, beeswax, water, IPM and borax. The IPM was your doing. Without it the crème was quite oily and greasy/heavy feeling but with only 2% IPM, it is just amazing feeling and absorbs perfectly and un-greasy. I really just like all of the ingredients you teach us about, the only thing I haven't ventured into is the surfactants. I'm sure I'll have to eventually but surely there is a way to make a liquid/gelled shampoo with only the things I already use for the lotions/conditioners. And I did make a solid conditioner bar from your instructions and that is a true miracle product. Rambling, yes. Thank you for your blog, I appreciate you.

electrikat65 said...

I love the BTMS-50 in everything, but it is kind of spendy per pound. I would like to know or find a way to mix it(percentage wise) with something less expensive, like E-wax, and still get all of the awesomeness of skin feel from the BTMS-50 and still have a good emulsion(I use cetyl alcohol with it anyway too). I too would love to know how to create a good face primer that doesn't involve mixing cornstarch with aloe gel(yes, I've actually seen that on the internet). I've been adding the CETAC to my hair products at your suggestion and the IPM to the hand products and those are fantastic. Amazing really. I've seen you mention/post about the emulsifiers that don't require heating/holding but the price on that is even worse than the BTMS-50. I'll have to wait for that to come down a little bit. I am also a silicone lover, the cyclomethicone/dimethicone double whammy in anything is amazing for me. I have scoured all of your e-books and have been picking and choosing on the oils to get the best of both worlds and still stay within a budget. Learning that I can use a really inexpensive oil like soybean oil(great stats too) and use a very small amount of IPM and it becomes this luxurious feeling hand cream. I know you don't talk about it much but I make a truly excellent thick hand crème with soybean oil, beeswax, water, IPM and borax. The IPM was your doing. Without it the crème was quite oily and greasy/heavy feeling but with only 2% IPM, it is just amazing feeling and absorbs perfectly and un-greasy. I really just like all of the ingredients you teach us about, the only thing I haven't ventured into is the surfactants. I'm sure I'll have to eventually but surely there is a way to make a liquid/gelled shampoo with only the things I already use for the lotions/conditioners. And I did make a solid conditioner bar from your instructions and that is a true miracle product. Rambling, yes. Thank you for your blog, I appreciate you.

Kirsten Thomas. said...

I've been working on a face mask with a cream base, just ordered jojoba beads, and then I saw this...it's funny, cause I was putting fruity aha's in mine as well. I wonder if you could tell me if you have worked with this caryyloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer before? I usually just use cymethlicone, but if you could look at the emulsification system and suggest (texture wise) if I go in with my usual cetyl alcohol and emuls wax NF, is there something else I can add to the emulsification system that will make it creamy and fluffy? I have a cream right now that turned out great, but it involved adding a HA gel to it. Any other thoughts on how to get the creamy, velvety texture without using Gel? Here's the link to the juice "goop" mask that I saw. Thanks!
http://shop.goop.com/collections/skincare-by-goop/products/exfoliating-instant-facial

Arismac said...

Susan, I am trying to blend botanicals with animal oils. In this case Jojoba oil with Emu oil. I know do not this is strictly an emulsifying problem but any suggestions would really help. Thanks and regards.

John Macmahon

Erin Storm said...

I was browsing Lotioncrafter for the first time a few weeks ago, and I was just bowled over by how many different items and additives they carry. It's hugely overwhelming. Just looking through their anti-aging products makes me want to buy and try some of everything. If their Actigym product (http://www.lotioncrafter.com/actigym.html) does what it says it does I would bathe in it twice a day lol. I'm curious if you've tried any of their specialty ingredients, and if it made a difference. Some of them have some pretty far out there claims, so I'd appreciate some professional guidance from you (or anyone who has tried any of these ingredients!) before I go purchasing snake oil :)

Crystle said...

Thank you for opening up this forum. First, I'm glad you are back. You have been in my thoughts and prayers.
I want to add fly colic acid to my shampoo, -FSS fruit mix, how often can I do this? My goal is removing dead cell build up in my scalp.

Stephanie Cloud Seery said...

I'm learning about silica microspheres lately! How fun, silky light and lovely! They need a little adhesion, imo. I guess that's what all your other ingredients are for!

ORE Estudio said...

I´m so glad you are back Susan, my thoughts are with your family.
I would like to know how can I incorporate lintseed (fresh) in my shampoo/or hair contitioner.
In my country lintseed has been used fresh for many years as a hair gel and hair mask. Long before the appearance of commertial hair products. People just gently boil the whole seeds in water until a clear, thick gelly substance appears. Strain the seeds and apply to hair when cooled.

I know you don´t like so much to add fresh ingredients to formulas and I am awarte that proper preservatives should be used. But I´m so intrigued with this. I´ve read that this gel is just the proteins from the seed and these proteins help with restructuring hair fiber.
Crystle question about glycolic acid is very interesting as well.

Thanks!

pat bortolin said...

https://www.facebook.com/EnvironmentalDefenceCanada/photos/a.10150588740540198.678179.52543970197/10157554161960198/?type=3...For some of the previous coments

One of my fav ingredients lately is colloidal oatmeal and adding it to face/body wash and to moisturizers.

pat bortolin said...

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14900337_10157554161960198_960492981408135437_n.png?oh=d155546d3437025862e1863ba4a0ad8a&oe=58976E7A

Not sure why link above did not take but it's with regards to an FaceBook article from "Enviromental Defence Canada"...Canada Announces Microbeads Ban

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Quick note: Jojoba beads and silica microspheres aren't related to the plastic micro beads that are being banned everywhere. More on this topic soon...

Rhea said...

Hi Susan,
Thanks so much for this blog, I have learned so much. I would like to make a cream or oil based hand scrub. I had one years ago from mary kay it was very thick and felt wonderful and conditioning on hands. I was also thinking of one for men with pumice. Your thoughts? Another question I was going to buy Chamomile Hydrosol, now at Voyager it sounds more like a floral water. Do you recommend having the real thing for a face wash.

Thanks,

chincharo said...

First - I love your work. I am also working in this field and learn more from your posts than any pharmaceutical book or publication. One thing that interests me is the Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment by Sunday Riley, as a lot of people rave about it. I don't actually understand why there should be a difference to other products with lactic acid.

Also I would love everything that helps against severe hormonal cystic back acne, as my husband suffers so much because of it.

You are great!

Елена Литвин said...

Hello Suzan, how about hydroxyethylcellulose? I love crystal gells...

Kim V said...

Rice protein and polyquat10!
I love rice protein in about everything. Its great for your skin (so soft!) and awesome for your hair!
I can't make a conditioner without polyquat10. It makes my hair more manageable, shinier, less fly-away,... it's a miracle product. The only issue is that it smells horrendous, i can't seem to mask it with anything.

Ben said...

Exfoliants and thickeners. Been following along with the face wash series you have going and I'm not at the end yet but getting exfoliants to sit in the solution is hard without making the solution super thick to use or it starts going stringy.

Also I'd love to know more about lotions that reduce shin for oil people I've read about a few options but I want to know more about them, so those would be cool.

Jessica said...

I'd say I'm most interested in humectants (and combinations of humectants, solubizers so I can add in bits of oils and water without thickness, and penetration enhancers because I want everything to be effectively delivered.

Tricia said...

More details about how to work with Simulgreen 18-2 emulsifier, please. I just tried it out yesterday and like it better than the ECOMulse I've been using--less fussy to work with, and makes a thinner lotion. Maybe too thin....

So I'd also second the request for details about thickeners, esp. for facial use.

Ditto re: colloidal oats, which I love in lotions. Would love to hear what you think about working with colloidal oats: add at heated water phase or cool-down? concerns about preservatives?

Thanks so much for the wealth of info on your site.

Anthony Barrera said...

Hi Susan,

I recently made a lip balm with beeswax and sweet almond oil oil, and they came out great.

I am extremely interested in glycerin, as I have a bunch to use. I tried mixing it into my lip balm, but it seemed to separate. I assume adding some e-wax would allow the glycerin to stay mixed into the lip balm. Is this a good idea?

Tricia said...

A followup about Simulgreen 18-2: After trying out a face lotion made with this for a few days, I'm finding it brings on a bout of rosacea. Also that I don't like the feel of it on my face as well as I like lotion made with ECOMulse.

I'm still looking to use Simulgreen in a hand-and-body lotion, where its really thin texture will I hope allow me to use cocoa butter and other thick-ish ingredients and still have a not-too-thick lotion.

But no more Simulgreen in face lotion for me. Instead, I've gone back to ECOMulse (aka RitaMulse...) and am now testing out how low a % of that will still reliably emulsify--the aim with this being a somewhat thinner lotion than what I get with, say, 7% ECOMulse. Yesterday I made a small trial batch at 5%--still a bit too thick for my preference; will try 4% soon if the 5% remains stable. My oil phase is already pretty low, using rather thin oils (total just 13% of squalane, sunflower oil, and vitamin E, plus the emulsifier), so I'd rather make the recipe thinner by reducing the emulsifier if I can, rather than cutting down on my lovely herb-infused oils, or eliminating the 2% colloidal oats that's the only other potentially thickening agent in this recipe.

One thing folks need to know about ECOMulse is that, at least in my experience, it's really sensitive to pH and won't work at all if pH is too low. I keep a bottle of 10% lye on hand when combining oil and water phases, and drip it in, a drop or two at a time for a small test batch, until voila! emulsification happens. I use a single beater on a hand-held mixer for this, and keep the beaker with combined oil and water in the hot water bath until I see a stable emulsion.

Once emulsification happens with ECOMulse, I've found it to be very stable--unless I'm using an ingredient (like NeoDefend preservative) that causes the product's pH to drop over time. In that case, you'll need to adjust pH before bottling to ensure it doesn't drop below 5. If it does, your lotion's oil and water may separate.

YMMV. But this has been my experience using ECOMulse over the past year or so.

Jessica said...

Back to add Centella Asiatica extract. It's my favorite extract for calming my skin.
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/centella-asiatica-extract.html

Plus licorice root extract for brightening.
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/licorice-root-extract.html

And lately, I've been trying out ginseng extract. I'm still deciding on if it does anything for my skin, but it sounds so exotic that I want to love it.
https://www.brambleberry.com/Ginseng-Extract-P6230.aspx?Options=9544,0,0,0,0,0,0,0