Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Newbie Tuesday: Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser with chemical exfoliants in the form of powdered extracts

I know sometimes when people see the word "chemical" they stress out, but it shouldn't! The word chemical only means "something that contains elements", which is to say everything on earth. Your hair, your window, your cup of tea, arsenic, mushrooms - everything on earth is a chemical. So when we talk about chemical exfoliants, we're talking about those exfoliants that work through chemical reactions with your skin to exfoliate! These include such ingredients as AHAs, salicylic acid, and extracts, like willow bark, papaya, or pineapple.

Rather than re-write the post on chemical exfoliants again, I'll refer you to that post - chemical exfoliants. Don't worry: I'll be here when you get back.

Okay, so now that you know all about chemical exfoliants, please keep this in mind: We generally don't want to combine a few different ones together in one product. More is not better in this situation. We want to keep well within the suggested usage guidelines, lest we end up with severely reddened and sensitive skin.

Can we combine physical and chemical exfoliants? I don't recommend it because we could end up with really sensitive and annoyed skin.

So how do we include them in our facial cleansers? We can use them at the suggested usage rates in any product we make. We can take a recipe we've made before - like this one for oily skin from the Newbie Tuesday on modifying our recipes to include hydrolyzed proteins - and modify it to include our chemical exfoliant.

For oily, problem skin, I like to use extracts like willow bark or honeysuckle as they help with oiliness and exfoliation. The suggested usage rate for powdered honeysuckle extract from Voyageur Soap & Candle is 0.5% in the cool down phase. (Your supplier's information may vary, so check when you're buying it.) So I'll add 0.5% in the extract phase. I'm adding some water there to dissolve the extract before adding it to the rest of the cleanser.

Related post: How do I use liquid and powdered extracts in a product?

You could use this recipe as well for oily skin because it doesn't contain any other exfoliants! And you'll notice this looks just like the posts on how to add a powdered extract to your product. That's because we treat these powdered extracts the same way we treat all of them - dissolve, then add to the product.

15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
15% DLS
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% glycerin
3% cationic polymer - I like polyquat 7
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

5% distilled water (slightly warmed above room temperature)
0.5% powdered honeysuckle extract

46% distilled water

up to 2% liquid Crothix

Weigh the surfactant phase of the product into a container and mix. I suggest using a fork and mixing so you don't get a ton of bubbles. It's not the end of the world if it gets bubbly, but you'll have to wait a few days for the bubbles to go down.

Dissolve the powdered extract in a small container with slightly warmed distilled water. Add to the surfactant container, followed by the water phase. Mix again until it is blended. Again, try to avoid too many bubbles.

Add the Crothix 0.5% or 1% at a time. Mix well with the fork. It will likely fall to the bottom, so I suggest stirring from the bottom to make sure you're integrating the Crothix. If it isn't thick enough, add another 0.5% to 1%.

For oily skin, don't go over 2% as it can feel a little too moisturizing. For other skin types, you can go as high as 5% if you wish, but this will be very very moisturizing. If you can't get the visosity you want right now, it's okay. This is why we have pump bottles!

What would you do if you wanted to use another powdered extract that behaves as an exfoliant, like willow bark, papaya, or pineapple? Add them the same way. Dissolve, mix, add at 45˚C or lower! So simple, eh? Remember, though, these exfoliants will add a colour to your product, as you can see from the picture to the left. If you really hate the colour, consider using a liquid extract that is less likely to be so intense.

You can add a powdered extract into any of the cleansers we've made so far. Just remember not to combine the exfoliating extracts together. Have fun with an aloe vera, chamomile, and willow bark extract facial cleaner for dry skin, but don't add pineapple to the mix as well. Go nuts with a witch hazel, rosemary, and papaya extract facial cleanser for drier skin. Run away for a long weekend with rose water, aloe vera, and honeysuckle. But don't use those latter ones together unless you want red, irritated skin!

Join me Friday for more information on how to incorporate AHAs into your cleanser!

Then join me next Tuesday, November 22nd, to learn how to turn your facial cleanser into a foamer bottle recipe. On Tuesday, November 29th, we'll start work on our toners - both gelled and non-gelled - then move on to making eye gels, micellar waters, and water based facial sera.

Some time before the 29th, I'll write up a post asking for all your comments on the various cleansers we've made so far and what you think!

When we get to making emulsified products, we'll be making a moisturizer or seven with a number of different emulsifiers, a creamy lotion based cleanser, and facial scrubs. As it'll be the new year when we get making these products, I'll put up a shopping list shortly for these products, if you want to play along.

If you'd like to play along or if you've missed a post, here's a listing of the complete series...
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet the surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part one) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part two) - physical exfoliants


Brynna Stefanson said...

Wait, we weren't supposed to be using the foamer bottles yet? Oops. I guess I'll see what the difference in formulas is next Tuesday.

Ruby Rose Vella said...

I am really looking forward to see your take on micellar water. So far, I have only tried the Garnier cleansing water but I loved the convenience of it. I am a poor university student so I've been toying on the idea of making my own. I live in Calgary and I see that only Personal Formulator has 2 of the main ingredients in the Garnier one: hexylene glycol (could prob sub propylene or butylene glycol) and disodium cocoamphodiacetate. However, I am stumped on Poloxamer 184. I want to keep this as cheap as possible but the trial and error phase may be a costly one.

I have been following your blog and just lurking. I am a big fan! Thank you.


Ruby Rose Vella said...

I am ordering BSB and cocamidopropyl betaine at voyageur soon. I might try to make a micellar solution with amphosol cg, water, glycerin, and propylene glycol first. I want to buy disodium cocoamphodiacetate at personal formulator but it's going to be expensive. I'm thinking that since both surfactants are amphoteric then maybe I can sub amphosol cg in place of disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Hexylene glycol seems to be one of the most common ingredients use in micellar waters. I wonder what its advantage over propylene glycol in this context?

Again, I can't wait to see your micellar water recipe. It can't come soon enough. Have a good day!