Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Newbie Tuesday on Wednesday: Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part two)

How do we turn the facial cleanser with botanical extracts (part three) into an exfoliating cleanser by adding a physical exfoliant? I'm so glad you asked!

Check out the first part of this post by clicking this link, or scroll down to see the other posts in this series.

HONEY, CHAMOMILE & CUCUMBER FACIAL CLEANSER FOR DRY OR SENSITIVE SKIN
SURFACTANT PHASE
10% BSB
5% SLeS
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% glycerin
3% cationic polymer (honeyquat or polyquat 7, for instance)
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

WATER PHASE
49.5% distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% powdered cucumber extract

CROTHIX PHASE
up to 2% liquid Crothix

Instructions can be found in the original post...

So let's say I want to add 5% 60/100 jojoba beads to this product, how do I do it? Whenever we add something to a product, we have to remove the same amount to keep the recipe totalling 100%. In this case, if we want to add 5% jojoba beads, we take 5% from the water amount. The recipe will look something like this...

HONEY, CHAMOMILE & CUCUMBER FACIAL CLEANSER FOR DRY OR SENSITIVE SKIN WITH EXFOLIATING JOJOBA BEADS
SURFACTANT PHASE
10% BSB
5% SLeS
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% glycerin
3% cationic polymer (honeyquat or polyquat 7, for instance)
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

WATER PHASE
41.5% distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% powdered cucumber extract

CROTHIX PHASE
up to 2% liquid Crothix

ADD 5% jojoba beads and mix well

Notice the distilled water amount is now 41.5% so the recipe totals 100%. 

Let's talk about jojoba beads for a second...In this post, Kaylee asked about the size of jojoba beads. She has 20/40 and I suggested 60/100.

The purple 60/100 are 150 to 250 microns or very small, and suggested for light exfoliation on your face or sensitive areas.

The orange 24/40 are about 250 to 600 microns, which is still pretty small, and are suggested for use in body products as well as facial products, like masks.

So the smaller the number, the larger the bead and the more scrubby they will feel on your skin. You can use whatever level you want on your skin - I've used the larger sizes on my face without issue, but I do notice they don't wash away as easily as the little ones do.

If you'd like to learn more about jojoba beads, check out this link! And look for a longer post on jojoba beads in the near future! 

What about adding other exfoliants to our products? Add them at the end of the process after you've added your Crothix so you can see how thick the product will be. And make sure the product is cooled. If you're adding something like clay or jojoba beads, which have melting points, you'll end up with a bottle of goo if it isn't cooled properly.

Let's say we want to add 5% dermabrasion crystals to the cleanser. How would we do that? Add 5% in the end of the process as you did with the jojoba beads.

In this post in the comments, Missy noted that she felt 3% dermabrasion crystals weren't enough, so I'm suggesting 5% based on her recommendations. 

If you'd like to use other physical exfoliants in our products, please check out this post in which I use clay and dermabrasion crystals, or this post in which I use Australian clay and cranberry seeds.

Join me next Tuesday, November 15th, to learn more about adding chemical exfoliants to our products, and the Tuesday after on November 22nd to learn how to turn your facial cleanser into a foamer bottle recipe.

On Tuesday, November 29th, we'll start work on our toners - both gelled and non-gelled - then move on to making eye gels, micellar waters, and water based facial sera.

When we get to making emulsified products, we'll be making a moisturizer or seven with a number of different emulsifiers, a creamy lotion based cleanser, and facial scrubs. As it'll be the new year when we get making these products, I'll put up a shopping list shortly for these products, if you want to play along.

If you'd like to play along or if you've missed a post, here's a listing of the complete series...
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet the surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe

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