Tuesday, November 29, 2016

Newbie Tuesday: Modifying your facial cleanser into a foamer bottle recipe

Two weeks ago we talked about adding chemical exfoliants in our cleansers: Today we'll look at turning them into foaming facial products using these cute foamer bottles.

Sorry for being a week late on this. As you know, things have been pretty awful around here and we're still trying to figure out how to do everything that needs to be done in a day, and the blog was a casualty of the chaos. 

Foamer bottles require a very thin product, generally one that's about 2/3 or 66% water. Most of our recipes have about that level of water, so it's simple to add a bit more and call it a foaming cleanser! And we generally don't want a ton of extracts as they can precipitate back into a powder and clog up the tiny tube that pumps the cleanser.

Check out this post on adding aloe to our facial cleanser. These recipes would all work in a foamer bottle the way they are f you aren't thickening them, but I'd encourage you to modify them slightly by reducing the surfactants and upping the water. For the normal skin recipe, I'd reduce the surfactants to around a total of 15% and increase the water amount. You'll notice here that I added some rose water as it seems to be all the rage right now. If you don't have it, just add 10% more water to the product.

FACIAL CLEANSER FOR NORMAL SKIN WITH ALOE VERA & ROSE HYDROSOL
SURFACTANT PHASE
5% LSB
5% BSB
5% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% glycerin
3% cationic polymer - I like polyquat 7
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

WATER PHASE
56.5% distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
10% rose water or rose hydrosol (or just add more water)

Add all the surfactant phase into a container and warm slightly to make it easier to mix well. Add the cool down phase, pour into foamer bottle, and you've got yourself a lovely facial product!

The recipe we find here in a post on modifying your recipe to be in a foamer bottle is a great choice for a foamer bottle with just a few modifications.

Remember: Anything water soluble and liquid is considered water for our purposes. So in the next recipe, we have 45% distilled water, 10% aloe vera, and 25% rose hydrosol for a total of 80% water! Yes, the glycerin, protein, cationic polymer, and preservative are water soluble too, so really, you have a grand total of 87.5% water soluble ingredients. The problem is that the glycerin, cationic polymer, and preservative are thick and aren't helping with the idea that we want a really liquid product, so I tend not to include them in my final tally of the amount of water in my product.

LOW SURFACTANT FACIAL CLEANSER WITH SUITABLE FOR OILY SKIN TYPES
HEATED PHASE
45% distilled water
5% C14-16 olefin sulfonate (Bioterge AS-40)
5% disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
2.5% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% aloe vera liquid
25% rose water, chamomile hydrosol, rosemary hydrosol
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
2% cationic polymer, like polyquat 7

COOL DOWN
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Add all the surfactant phase into a container and warm slightly to make it easier to mix well. Add the cool down phase, pour into foamer bottle, and you've got yourself a lovely facial product!

LOW SURFACTANT FACIAL CLEANSER SUITABLE FOR DRY OR SENSITIVE SKIN TYPES
SURFACTANT PHASE
5% BSB
5% cocamidopropyl betaine
5% glycerin
3% cationic polymer - I like polyquat 7
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

WATER PHASE
59.5% distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
10% rose hydrosol (optional)

Add all the surfactant phase into a container and warm slightly to make it easier to mix well. Add the cool down phase, pour into foamer bottle, and you've got yourself a lovely facial product!

In any recipe, reduce the surfactants to 10% to 15%, add water to make up the difference, you've got yourself a foamer bottle of awesome facial cleansing!

This isn't to say you can't use the awesome power of powdered extracts in your foaming facial products, but I would suggest using a little less - say 0.25% instead of 0.5% - or find some liquid extracts that'll do the same job. For instance, this liquid green tea extract from Lotioncrafter or this willow bark extract from Formulator Sample Shop could easily take the place of your powders.

You can see how much I love powders in the picture to the left. My bloody looking grapeseed extract foamer bottle cleanser has all the awesome power of grapeseed from a powdered extract.

Lest you think foamer bottles are a waste of time - they're a great way to present a surfactant mix that you don't want to thicken or one that refuses to do so.

Related posts:
Weekend Wonderings: How do I turn a recipe into a foamer bottle recipe?
Modifying the low foaming facial cleanser to be a foamer bottle recipe
Facial cleansers: Foaming bottles
Facial cleansers with tons of extracts
Formulating a facial cleanser good for lash extensions #1
Formulating a facial cleanser good for lash extensions #2
Creating a foaming soy cleanser
Creating a foaming rice cleanser
Creating a foaming protein cleanser

If you'd like to play along or if you've missed a post, here's a listing of the complete series...
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet the surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part one) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part two) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser by adding chemical exfoliants

Join me next Newbie Tuesday as we take a look at toners, then the week after that when we dive into creating gels. After that it's your favourite and mine, oil based facial serums and moisturizers!

1 comment:

herezy said...

I'm washing my face with foam like the Japanese technique but not as much foam because I'm not that patient nor good with foaming up my cleanser (they show the foaming technique around 16:00).

I've tried a commercial cleanser in a foaming bottle a while ago but my skin didn't like it. I'm really tempted to attempt my own with a foaming bottle! Thank you for another awesome tutorial.