Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Newbie Tuesday: Let's start making facial cleansers!

Oh my gosh! It's here! The day on which we start making a facial cleanser. Are you as excited as I am for this? Woo!

We'll be taking a look at the process of creating a foaming facial cleanser over the next few days - so it's really not a Tuesday only thing for this week as it turns out there's just so much information I want to share with you! - culminating in a recipe for a starter facial product for you to try at home.

The general plan is that we'll have a few base recipes for each skin type you can try by Tuesday, September 13th.  ake the product, then check back in here on Tuesday, September 20th to report back what you think of what you made and what you'd like to change. We'll start creating some recipes with those suggested modifications on Tuesday, September 27th.

If you have no idea what I'm talking about and you'd like to play along at home, please check out these posts...

Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products (introduction)
Newbie Tuesday: A shopping list
Newbie Tuesday: Equipment list

The most important question I can ask myself is this - what's the point of the product I'm about to make? This will guide us in creating the first basic formulation for each skin type.

What's the point of a facial cleanser? We want something mild, conditioning, and possibly moisturizing to remove the excess oils and dirt that accumulate on our skin over the day and overnight. If we're using surfactants - the bubbly, foamy, lathery kind we bought for these projects - then we want something that isn't too bubbly and foamy and something that rinses off clean. Most of us will use a toner and/or moisturizer after washing, so we don't need a ton of special ingredients in this product that'll be washed off anyway.

As an aside, that feeling of tightness after cleansing is about how much of the surfactant is still left on your skin after rinsing, not about stripping oils from our skin! 

As another aside, the recipe we develop this week will be the base for the rest of the products in the surfactanty bit of this series, such as the foaming bottle facial cleanser, exfoliating facial cleanser, clay cleanser, and more. That's why we're starting from scratch today! 

What's your skin type? There are so many choices, so let's take a few minutes for an overview of each type and what that means for making facial products. This is pretty important because these small differences are what make a great product!

If you have dry skin, you'll want something that removes dirt, oil, and other messy things with a gentle to mild surfactant, then re-fatten the skin to make it feel moisturized and clean. You can handle oils and other oil based ingredients on your skin and in your cleanser. You can also use a nice, light exfoliant to desquamate your skin. (Which is the point of the jojoba beads I suggested you buy...) You're very likely to use a moisturizer, day cream, night cream, serum, or other lotion on your skin after cleansing, so we'll save some of our more exotic and expensive ingredients for that product. 
Check out these posts on dry skin as soon as you can!

What does it mean to have dry skin?
Ingredients for impaired skin barrier
Lower hydration levels

If you have oily skin, you'll want something that removes dirt and oil without stripping the sebum completely off your skin. You'll want a mild cleanser with an emphasis on non-oil moisturizing and hydrating with film formers, humectants, and extracts. You may or may not be using a moisturizer or lotion after using this product, so we need to keep in mind the cleaning regimen you follow.

As another aside, if you have to wash your face two or more times a day, you have oily skin. If you have to wash your hair every day or every other day, you have oily hair. It's not about the ends of your hair - we all have dry ends if we dye, blow dry, straighten, or otherwise abuse our hair - but your scalp. But I digress...

If you have normal skin, you are a very lucky person! You'll want something that removes dirt and oil and other things with a gentle to mild surfactant to make it feel moisturized and clean. (Did I mention we're all really envious of you right now?) You may or may not be using a moisturizer after cleansing. 

Okay, now it's time for a bit of homework before we move on. I'd like to suggest that you read this post on the biology and chemistry of our skin and this post on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) for tomorrow. (TEWL is the most important concept in making products you probably haven't considered yet!)

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at the ingredients you bought for these projects and what each of them brings to the mix before choosing just the right ones in the right amounts for your skin type!

Woo! Facial cleansers! See you tomorrow! 


ingenting said...

Aaah, the day I've been waiting for.

I'm glad we're starting with facial cleansers. I should have every ingredient here (or at least equivalents, e.g. a slightly different surfectant/liquid extracts instead of powdered etc.).

Can't wait to get started! But I'll read through all the links first, today:)

You and your mom are in my thoughts.
Take care!

I found a place where I can get ultrez 21 (plus a TON of other goodies I've always wanted to try :D) and another place for the triethanolamine, however due to some unexpected expenses I won't be able to get my hands on those until next month. Though I'm guessing that's still in time?

Gold Xpress said...

Hi Susan.
I'm commenting for the first time all the way from Ghana in West Africa.
My family and I are diplomats with the state department.
The poverty level here is high and worse on women and children. I decided to learn some things that I can maybe give back?
I have spent about a month on your site now and have learned so much!
I have been able to teach 14 women how to make basic lotion and liquid soap as a source of livelihood and 3 as of today already have products in the local market.
I have bought books on Amazon and more just to teach myself things so I can teach them too. But you site here has been free and the most helpful. I have had tremendous joy from sharing. So wanted to say thank you.
I'm currently purchasing more supplies from lotion crafters for another training coming up next week. When I'm done with that and have some money to spare I will be more than glad to order one of your books.
I am unable to upload pictures to show you what we did.

But thank you for doing this. You have indirectly put food in many women's mouth.


Susan said...

This is going to be such a fun series! I have been so busy over the summer with other commitments and family visiting, that I have not done much in the way of formulating ... but I am committed to making these items in this series, as I am either out of, or almost out of everything! So excited! I purchased the few extras that I needed from Voyageur and when I went to put them away, the array of products in my storage cabinet made me anxious to get back into the groove of creating all kinds of neat stuff :) You are truly an inspiration Susan!

Sending lots appreciation and healing vibes to you and your mom across the mountains!

Susan in Calgary

pat bortolin said...

Yes...This is going to be fun...Just finished a batch of body wash and love it so much that I don't need moisturizer after..yipeeee! Thanks for everything Susan :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi ingenting! I think we have at least two months before we get to gels, although theoretically you can thicken the facial cleanser with gel.

Hi Gold Xpress! I have no words for your kindness. Thank you for sharing.
If you get a moment, can you write to me directly at sjbarclay@telus.net as I'd love to see some pictures. As well, I'd love to talk about sending some ingredients to you!

Hi Susan! I hope you enoy the series! It's just started!

Hi Pat! Don't you love a good body wash? One of my favourite products to make and use!

Alexandra Brookstein said...

Hi there!! SO I know this post is older but I just made a facial cleanser and wanted some advice.

I used 2oz castile soap, 2oz glycerin, 2T vera aloe liquid 2tsp chamomile hydrosol, and a 1T activated charcoal.

I really like the results, its not harsh, and my skin feels clean and not too dry after however I always follow up with a moisturize.

The aloe vera does have a preservative in it so do I still need to use a preservative and if so what kind would you suggest?

ALso, I would love to hear what is perhaps wrong with my recipe bc I just kinda put it together.