Tuesday, September 20, 2016

Newbie Tuesday: Did you make facial cleanser? What did you think? (Part one)

Last week, we made a facial cleanser, then modified it by adding humectants and cationic polymers. This week, we're talking about our recipes and how we could modify them to be more awesome for our skin type.

Please join the conversation by commenting here, on the other posts, or by emailing me at sjbarclay@telus.net

Carol Ann commented: I made the cleanser for dry/sensitive skin using the 2% crothix because I like a thicker cleanser. It was a nice clear product. There was minimal lather, I could tell it was there but no large bubbles. It rinsed off easily. I waited a few minutes before using my toner to see how my skin felt - it definitely needs some conditioning ingredients added. I think this is a great start and I will continue to build on this base recipe. 

Conditioning ingredients, even at small amounts, make such a big difference! Oftentimes we think that we need huge amounts of something to have an impact; with something like a humectant or cationic polymer - like those we included in the recipe on Wednesday - can make such a difference at 2% to 5%. We'll be taking a look at adding a few other ingredients next week, like aloe vera or witch hazel, both of which offer hydration and moisturizing.

As an aside, if you want more bubbles, add a bit more SLeS. That recipe uses 5% SLeS, but you could go higher, if you wanted.

Pat commented: Thank you Susan for all the great info on creating a Facial cleanser. I have normal skin type and formulated my wash with 40% surfactants, including: Cocamide DEA, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine along with distilled water and Aloe Vera gel juice, Glycerin, preservative and White Grapefruit E-oil. The wash came out very clear and just the right viscosity without having to add Crothix, a dime size of the soft foam was all that was needed to cleanse and hydrate my skin, it felt literally "PERFECT"!! I did not apply moisturizer for the day for testing purposes and now just found out that I can use half the amount of moisturizer afterwards, so very happy thanks to you :) :) :)

Pat followed up with this: To answer your question on "How I feel about my facial cleanser a few days later" is that it still feels great after the cleansing and takes my make-up off with ease also...It's very nice and cost effective too..

Woo! This is what we want to hear! An ideal cleanser should leave your skin feeling fresh, moisturized, and hydrated. Aloe vera is a great addition to a cleanser - we'll be getting to it shortly!

Brynna commented, Made my cleanser today, though I think I made some errors with my ordering. I wound up with straight up Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate in my normal skin kit rather than LSB, so I hope that shouldn't be too much of a problem. I also only have tiny little foamer bottles, so I had to use two for 100g. I think my measuring out could stand to be a bit more accurate, so today I'll be ordering some scale calibration weights and reading up on chemistry measuring best practices. Too early to wash my face yet, but it felt like a lovely thick foam on my hands, and it will be interesting using a foaming facewash again.

The LSB is a combination of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (SLSA) and disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, so having DLS on its own isn't a bad thing. The difference will be the viscosity of the product. LSB is really thick - super mega thick - so using only DLS will result in a thinner product. DLS is still really thick, but not nearly as thick as LSB. Just remember to use less Crothix!

Brynna continued the next day: I like it. A big change from the face wash I have been using (SpectroJel), which I had always rubbed in with a dry face. Doesn't work so well with this! Now that I have this figured out, it still seems a little thick with 1.2 g Crothix in. I think tomorrow I'll try the batch with the cationic polymer, and reduce the Crothix a bit. So far it seems to be treating my skin well. I do an oil cleanse before my other cleanser, and this seemed to take that all off without leaving me dry or with residue. And armed with some knowledge looking at the SpectroJel ingredient list, how is this a cleanser? Nothing in there that I can identify as a surfactant. I see myself reading a lot of labels and trying to puzzle things out in the future.

And it begins...First you start looking at the labels in your bathroom. Then in other people's bathrooms. Then the shops. Then it gets to the point where going to the drug store takes you hours as you stop to look at every label! Mwa ha ha! One of us! One of us!

Ahem...back to the task at hand.

The other day we talked a bit about surfactants, which are surface active agents. There are a few in the SpectroJel product - sorbitan oleate and polysorbate 20 - which allow oil and water to mix. Which means it can mix with the sebum on your face and remove it. The cetyl alcohol moisturizes without oils. (This was my favourite cleanser before I started making my own products. If you're interested in taking a look at a potential duplication for the SpectroJel, take a look at this one I tried a few years ago...)

Join me tomorrow as we look at a few more comments and modify the recipe accordingly!

If you'd like to play along, check out these posts for this facial cleanser series!
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet your surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe

Please share your thoughts in this post as we move towards making more facial cleanser recipes adjusted for specific skin types. I would also love to see pictures of what you're making as we could use those to illustrate these posts so others can see what's possible! You'll have to e-mail me your pictures to sjbarclay@telus.net


witch said...

one of us! one of us!!

Anna said...

Hi! Thank you for a great tutorial and all the inspiration you give in your blog! I made a facial cleanser for oily skin but since I don't have some of the suggested ingredients, I've had to improvise! In my experience, it's been difficult to find ingredients that aren't possible to market as "natural" in Sweden and Europe. I can't get Crothix and the substitute I got (EasyMix Silk) only made clumps and did not thicken well. So I formulated my cleanser to go in a foamer bottle. I'm also envious of the person who only has small foamer bottles because I can only find large ones that look ridiculous with the tiny amounts of product I make! The surfactants I have to play with are cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, plantapon LGC, powdered DLS, sodium C14/C16 olefin sulphonate, and SCI.

I've made three different facial cleansers. All of them contained 77.5% water, 15% surfactants, 3% polyquat 7, 2% hydrolyzed oat protein, 2 % panthenol, and 0.5% Liquid Germall plus. In the first I tried to combine 5% cocamidopropyl betaine with 10% SCI but the SCI precipitated on the second day and clogged the foaming mechanism. Before that it was lovely! In the second version I combined 5% cocamidopropyl betaine with 5% decyl glucoside and 5% sodium c14/C16 olefin sulphonate and adjusted the pH (because I have a pH-meter!). This version was nice although maybe not as cleansing as I need it to be. The third version included 5% cocamidopropyl betaine, 2.5% decyl glucoside, 2.5% SCI, and 5% sodium c14/C16 olefin sulphonate. I still had to adjust the pH with this small proportion of decyl glucoside. This is my favourite version so far! It's a bit creamier than the second version thanks to the SCI, and a litte bit more cleansing. I still have a little problem with skin tightness after washing even though I included moisturizing ingredients. But I love using it and knowing that I made it myself!

Thanks! /Anna