Friday, September 23, 2016

Newbie Tuesday: Did you make facial cleanser? What did you think? (part two)

Let's take a look at a few more comments about the facial cleansers you made last week based on this recipe or this recipe. (If you missed part one of these comments, please click here and see what your fellow readers are saying!) And look for part three shortly, too!

Susan writes: Thank you for the Face Cleanser recipes - I made the recipe for Dry/Sensitive skin. I live in Calgary, so not only am I in a dry climate, but I have dry skin also, so double parched here!
Here is my feedback on the basic recipe (no additives):

How does it feel on your skin? - I really liked how mild it felt. I used it to remove my makeup at the end of the day, and there was no irritation around the eyes, which is really important since I don't like to have to use an eye makeup remover AND a facial cleanser. 

Was the product too thick or too thin? - I found it a bit thick, but that is because my scale jumped from 0 to 2 when adding the Crothix. (time for a new scale!) so I was at the max right away. I will probably put only 1 % in the next batch. 

How was the lather, the foam, the bubbles? - Perfect, actually. I don't like a lot of bubbles on my face. I found it to be a nice, rich, creamy lather, without many bubbles.

How well did it rinse off? I used warm water to cleanse with, and it rinsed off quite well. With the reduced Crothix next batch, it will probably rinse even better!

Skin feel after rinsing off? - Skin felt clean, and smooth. Not tight, but feeling like I will need a moisturizer to follow. 

I have been using Cetaphil in the past because it is mild and rinses off clean. I think this will be a great replacement. I love how easily my makeup rinses off, with no racoon eyes left behind :). Looking forward to adjusting it a bit with some additives!

Susan added this the next day: I modified the recipe for dry skin, and liking the results. To the surfactant phase, I added 3% Polyquat 7 and increased glycerin to 4%. I reduced Crothix to 1%. I like the soft, clean feeling on my face, not dry or tight. I am thinking this is going to be my new favourite facial cleanser! 

Thanks so much for such a detailed comment, Susan! I'm excited that you like it! 

*A quick point of interest if you're using one of these kinds of digital scales and want to measure small amounts. These aren't great for amounts of 5 grams or lower. If you don't want to buy a smaller scale, like this one, my suggestion is to put your container on the scale and just count up the few grams you need.

Stephanie shared her experiences with us in this post: I ended up using a different surfactant for part of mine because of availability issues. Here's what my recipe looked like:

Facial Cleanser 
15g LSB 
5g SLSa
10g cocamidopropyl betaine
5g glycerin
0.5g liquid Germall Plus

10g Aloe Vera liquid 
51.5g distilled water
3g Hydrolyzed oat protein 
.5g Silk peptides
.5g Helichrysum and lavender essential oils

No crothix was necessary, I was happy with the texture of the overall product. I know you don't like essential oils around your face, but helichrysum is alleged to be good for aging skin and lavender is that catch all oil that's good for everything. And they smell nice together, which is the awesome thing. I also made a bottle of this with petitgrain essential oil for my daughter who likes mild citrus and floral scents and she loves it so far! Very gentle, no residue afterwards, but your skin doesn't feel dried out and itchy.

I love your customization of this recipe! (And you're running ahead of us by adding aloe vera!) Isn't this why we're making our own things? I'm curious, though...what kind of SLSa did you use? I ask because the powder thickens beautifully for a few days, and then it can end up as concrete afterwards. 

Julie wrote: I made the facial cleanser for normal skin identical to your recipe and added the polyquat 7 at 3%. The consistency was good the first day then it seemed to have become more liquid the second day. It is normal or am I imagining things? I did not add crotihx just to see what I would get without it. In a pump bottle and distributing in small quantity for the face, I like the consistency. The feeling was nice on my face. My skin felt clean afterward and did not feel tight, but looked a little dry. A little moisturizer was all I needed. I can't wait to try the toner! I was also curious and used the cleanser as a shampoo. I really like the feeling and it rinsed off well. For a shampoo, I would make it thicker so it would not run down between my fingers before I have time to apply it. But otherwise, it was much better than my last try at making shampoo. I really enjoy the newbie series!

Thanks for your thoughts Julie! You're not imagining things: Often times the consistency of our products can changer over the first 48 hours. For surfactant based products, I find the product needs to be at room temperature - which can take a bit if I've had a heated phase - and all the ingredients need to be included before I can see what the consistency might be. Fragrances can change the viscosity dramatically, and often I will fragrance the product today and check it for viscosity tomorrow or even the next day. 

Carol observed: I've modified the dry/sensitive formula by adding the 3% polyquat 7. I'm not noticing a huge difference from the preview I left after the first basic formula. My face feels clean but I find it still needs something more for conditioning/hydrating. I'll be following it up with a great toner and moisturizer so maybe the face wash does not need to be so moisturizing?

Thanks for trying both versions, Carol! I think it's a good idea to have the facial cleanser more moisturizing so skin doesn't feel tight or dry, but you bring up a good point about considering what the next product you use might be. If you're using a toner and/or moisturizer afterwards, then we can save the expensive ingredients for those leave on products and just go for cleansing and hydrating for the face wash.

To reflect on the comments...
If the product is too thick, leave out the Crothix. If it's still too thick, take out some of the thicker surfactant and replace it with water. LSB is a really thick surfactant, as are BSB and disodium laureth sulfoacetate, so you could remove 5% of one of those and add 5% instead and see where you are. In Stephanie's case above, it could be thanks to the aloe vera, which contains electrolytes which can thicken a product. (She's running ahead a few days here, so we'll discuss this more in detail shortly...)

I have a little video about viscosity you can find on my YouTube channel! 

If you don't like this as a facial cleanser, think of using it as a shampoo like Julie did, a body wash, or even a bubble bath. There are tiny differences between each of these products, and one that doesn't work to make your facial skin feel great may make your hair feel amazing!

And we will be designing the next aspect of the recipe with the thought of what products we might use next after cleaning our skin - like a toner, moisturizer, serum, etc. - 

So what do we do from here? We modify the recipe, of course! I'll continue to collect and share your ideas about the facial cleansers you've made and post ideas on how we can modify that original base next Tuesday! Join me tomorrow for more comments! 

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