Tuesday, August 9, 2016

Newbie Tuesday: Facial products series - A shopping list

Sorry for the delay in posting the ingredients you'll want to get for the first few projects for our Newbie Tuesday facial products series. The plan is to make these products...

Facial cleanser
Foaming facial cleanser
Exfoliating facial cleanser
Micellar water
And three gels - a gelled toner, serum, and an eye gel

We'll be starting the making part of the series on September 6th, which gives you at least 4 weeks to get your ingredients delivered. (I hope this is enough time! If it isn't, talk to me!)

THE SERIES HAS STARTED! Join us in these posts! 
Facial cleansers - the base recipes
Facial cleansers - the modified recipes with humectants

We will also be making a lotion based moisturizer at the end of the series. I'm not suggesting you buy the ingredients now as your lovely oils may not be so lovely by then, but I will promise to give you loads of notice before we get to those posts.

What you see below are the shopping lists I suggest for different skin types. If you're in doubt, the normal kit can be easily modified for oily and dry skin types. (Click here for my posts on skin chemistry and types!)

If you want to see the suggested equipment list, please click here

Voyageur Soap & Candle in Surrey, B.C., has put together kits for those of you wanting to participate in this series of posts. There is enough in each kit to make all the projects I've listed above, as well as a few other things like shampoo, body wash, or bubble bath! You have to order this specially from them, by calling customer service at 1-800-758-7773 or by e-mailing  sales@voyageursoapandcandle.com and asking to order the kit you want. You're saving 10% by buying the things together and you'll get another 5% customer reward discount! Woo! Thanks, Voyageur! (And remember to order an extra 60 ml of polysorbate 80 as I forgot to put that on the list with them!)

You'll want to order the specific kit as well as the gel making kit. You get the packaging as well, but I do encourage you to get at least one or two more of each type of packaging as you'll want to make more after your first successes!

Susan’s Facial Products E-Zine Kit for Oily Skin - $82.95
Susan’s Facial Products E-Zine Kit for Normal Skin- $82.95
Susan’s Facial Products E-Zine Kit for Dry Skin - $82.95
Susan’s Making Gel’s E-Zine Kit - $15.25

I need to make it really super mega clear that I receive nothing in any way if you buy these from Voyageur Soap & Candle. They've been so kind as to put these kits together to make it easier to follow the series. 

This is the shopping list for three different skin types and the gel. This is the ideal list. I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments below.

500 ml Amphosol CG (cocamidopropyl betaine)
500 ml Bioterge AS-40 (C14-16 olefin sulfonate)
500 ml disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (DLS)
60 ml Crothix liquid thickener
60 ml liquid Germall plus
60 ml hydrolyzed oat protein
125 ml glycerin
60 ml polyquat 7
1 ounce/28 grams small white jojoba beads (exfoliant for the cleanser)
10 grams 200 x organic aloe vera (aloe vera liquid works here, but not the gel)
250 ml witch hazel
60 grams allantoin (you can get less of this, if you want...)
10 grams powdered chamomile extract
10 grams powdered rosemary

500 ml Amphosol CG (cocamidopropyl betaine)
500 ml LSB surfactant - disodium laureth sulfosuccinate and sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
500 ml BSB surfactant - look for a baby safe blend
60 ml Crothix liquid thickener
60 ml liquid Germall Plus
60 ml hydrolyzed oat protein
125 ml glycerin
60 ml polyquat 7
10 grams 200 x organic aloe vera (aloe vera liquid works here, but not the gel)
1 ounce/28 grams small white jojoba beads
250 ml witch hazel
60 grams allantoin (you can get less of this, if you want)
10 grams chamomile extract
10 grams green tea extract

500 ml Amphosol CG (cocamidopropyl betaine)
500 ml BSB liquid - look for a baby safe blend
500 ml Steol CS-230 or sodium laureth sulfate
60 ml Crothix liquid thickener
60 ml liquid Germall Plus
60 ml hydrolyzed silk protein
125 ml glycerin
60 ml polyquat 7
10 grams 200 x organic aloe vera (aloe vera liquid works here, but not the gel)
1 ounce/28 grams small white jojoba beads
250 ml witch hazel
60 grams of allantoin (you can get less of this, if you want)
10 grams powdered chamomile extract
10 grams powdered cucumber extract

4 - 50 ml foamer bottles or a few larger sizes
3 - 125 ml pump bottle
1 - 125 ml mister bottle - any type
1 - 125 ml bottle with disc cap - any type

57 grams carbomer Ultrez 20
125 ml triethanolamine*
3 - 30 ml jars
3 - 30 ml natural cylinder with disc cap

*If you can't get triethanolamine where you live, carbomers can be made with an 18% lye solution. (Mix 18% lye with 82% distilled water. Mix, and let it do its thing as it will get really really hot, then cool down. Make sure you do this in a glass container, then transfer it to a bottle and write something like "Do not drink! If you do, you will die, and I will be sad." And put a big skull and crossbones on it!

30 to 60 ml polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, or caprylyl/capryl glucoside (I don't recommend this last one as it's super sticky, but some people like it). I prefer polysorbate 80.

If you're shopping at Lotioncrafter, get the Surf Pro CC-6 instead.

(These are ingredients for the micellar water, as well as ingredients that can add oils to surfactant mixes.)

As well, get some distilled water from your local drug store. I think they only come in 4 litre (one gallon?) jugs.

If you aren't able to order from Voyageur Soap & Candle, there are other retailers who sell surfactants, like The Herbarie (US) or Aussie Soap Supplies (Australia). If you want to look for a retailer near you, check out the frequently asked questions section of the blog and scroll down for the lists of suppliers in your region of the world.

A few thoughts on modifications...

You can use Ritathix DOE to thicken your products, and some will thicken with salt, others with xanthan gum, others with other gums. We need thickeners for the facial cleanser and exfoliating facial cleanser. If you feel you can live without thickening those, that's cool, don't buy some!

You can buy whatever hydrolyzed proteins your heart desires as there are so many of them now. And you can get whichever cationic polymer (that's what polyquat 7 is) you wish, like honeyquat or polyquat 44, and so on.

If you have an extract you love, use that instead! If you want to use a liquid version, like liquid green tea extract, that's great. I'll share how to use those in the formulating posts. Just make sure you're getting the water soluble version of the extract. Check the INCI for any information on what's in it - for instance, if it's fractionated coconut oil, it's not water soluble - and read about the solubility. Check the extracts section of the blog to learn more about them.

If you want to switch surfactants, check out the surfactant chart found here! I know a lot of people want to use decyl glucoside. The problem is that it has a really high pH, and when we use this surfactant, we have to check and alter the pH. Many to most of you don't have pH meters, and I'm not about to ask you to go buy one for this project, so we won't be using it in this series. I will, however, give you ideas on how to alter the recipes to include it.

But definitely get the cocamidopropyl betaine! It's essential in all my recipes as it increases mildness and viscosity.

I'm happy to answer any questions you have about your ingredients in the comments below. Please read other comments to see if your question has been asked by someone else as it'll save both of us time.

I think I've covered everything? Woo! We're making facial products!!!


Lisa H said...

Susan, this will be fun! A question though-did you intentionally leave the aloe vera out of the oily and dry skin list-its only in the first one.

Lisa H said...

Sorry! I wrote that wrong. Aloe is listed in the Oily list but not the normal or dry list.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I screwed that up and will correct it now! Thanks for the catch!

ingenting said...

Yesssssss it's here!!

And I already have a lot of the ingredients, score!

I just need to crosscheck some of the unknown-to-me ingredients re: INCI's etc. as, for instance, I've never seen Ultrez 21 for sale over here (Netherlands/France/Germany).
The only gel type ingredients I can find are (unless I can teach myself enough Italian;) ):

xanthan gum
Natrosol® 250 HX (INCI: Hydroxyethylcellulosum)
Amaze XT polymer (INCI: Dehydroxanthan Gum)
hyalyronic acid
aloe vera gel

And apparently use of triethanolamine is strictly monitored over here (Netherlands) as you can create poisonous gasses with it (or something).
The only shop where I could find it so far, has this rule where you can only buy 250ml a year, and they'll only sell it to you if they can conclude from your consumer/purchase behaviour that it will be used strictly for cosmetics.

So I'm not sure if I'll be able to get my hands on that (maybe I should show them this post + my comments? ;) )

Is there an alternative for that?

In any case, I'm excited to get started in September! :D

Julie Marcil said...

Hi Susan,

Thanks for making another newby Tuesday series!
I just had a little question. I found the natural cylinder container on Voyageur, but what do you mean by "natural cap"?
It is very nice of Voyageur to make special kits for this project.Can't wait to get started!


glamaris said...

@ Julie

She just means make sure you get caps for your bottles (caps come in either white, black, or natural colours). Voyageur sells these bottles both with and without caps (you can buy the caps separately).

:) Glam

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Julie! That was actually information for Voyageur as I didn't care what kind of cap was on the bottle, colour wise. Thanks, glamaris for clearing that up!

Hi ingenting! You could use xanthan gum for thickening our products for this series. Having said that, if you find a carbomer you can neutralize - and I encourage you to come back here to ask if I can be of assistance - you can use an 18% lye solution. (Mix 18% lye with 82% distilled water. Then you use that as the neutralizer. I will update the post with this information, and make sure I note that when we get to gels!)

Kath Collard said...

Thank you for the list of ingredients .... really looking forward to this series getting underway. OK, that was an understatement, excited woohoo can't wait.


tinycyclops said...

Hi Susan! Thank you so much for doing the blog. I've learned so much from you.

I had a question about the BSB surfactant. I know it's available at Voyageur, but I'm having a hard time finding it at a US supplier.

I did find this from save on citric and the INCI looks almost the same. Would this be an acceptable substitute?

I also am having a hard time finding the ultrez 21 in the US as well. The only thing I can really find is sodium carbomer from lotioncrafter, but that's preneutralized.

Thank you so much!

Alexis said...

Hi Susan!

Loooooooong time lurker, first time I've commented, because I'm hoping to take the plunge and finally start formulating along with you with this series.

I was wondering if you had a post I might refer to for what equipment would be helpful to purchase in anticipation of this series?

Thanks so much!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi ingenting! I had another thought. What kind of aloe vera gel is it? That probably contains a polymer you can use. Or you can use the Amaze XT. Let me know what you've bought and I can modify the posts to contain it.

Hi tinycyclops! You can totally use the carbomer from Lotioncrafter. You can also get the EMT 10 - which is awesome, I must say - or the Sepimax ZEN. Any of these will work wel for this series, although I would lean to the EMT 10 as it's got a silkiness the carbomers lack.

As for surfactants, this one at Save on Citric looks right! They have some cool stuff there!

Hi Alexis! I'll create a post on this topic over the next few days. Thanks for the reminder!

Denise Williams said...

I'm so excited about this series! Thanks for posting the list. I second the request for an equipment list, and I also wondered if I should buy water rather than using tap water.

Since I'm in the UK, it's hard to find some of the exact ingredients, so could I just check a couple of my choices will be OK? For surfactants, I have cocomidopropyl betaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and a prill of sodium cocoyl isethionate (with this, do you know if I need to buy a 500g prill to make 500ml when melted?)

I have also substituted Ultrez 10 for Ultrez 21 because that's what I could find.

Thanks so much for this!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi everyone! You can find the equipment list in this post. Thanks for the reminder to do that!

Hi Denise! Yes, you want the cocamidopropyl betaine, but the disodium cocoamphodiacetate is a very similar ingredient with a higher pH. If you have to choose between the two, go with the betaine. Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is one of my favourite surfactants. It's not an easy one to use for these products, but it'll feel awesome on your skin. The skin feel is described as "elegant" and I know my hair and skin feel moisturized after using it. It's lovely.

Do you have access to more surfactants? If you send me a link to the store, I can take a look at what's there and make suggestions.

Did you find a link on how to use Ultrez 10? Here are a few I found...
Summary from Lubrizol
A really extensive data bulletin with all the information you'd want to know!
A link to the Personal Formulator on how to neutralize this polymer

Denise Williams said...

Thanks Susan,

Here is the list of surfactants from Gracefruit: http://www.gracefruit.com/additives/actives/surfactants/#/category/89
And here is the list from the Soap Kitchen: http://www.thesoapkitchen.co.uk/acatalog/surfactant-products.html

I was hoping not to use SLS since it isn't as mild as I'd like. SCI does sound lovely but I'm a bit nervous about using it if it's not straightforward since I'm such a newbie.

After a lot of shopping around today, I think the list minus a couple of items will be £100, which is double the cost of the Voyageur kit; today I'm wishing I lived in North America! But I still really want to join.

Amanda Vanags said...

This is exciting! Thanks for the great blog! And thanks for the tremendous content!
My daughter in law is extremely allergic to aloe Vera . Do you have a substitution for this in the "shopping list?"

Suzie T said...

Supplies ordered, THANK YOU SUSAN! Looking forward to making these.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Denise! Plantapon SF from Gracefruit looks interesting - I haven't worked with it, but we can get it in Canada now, so I hope to order something soon - so I recommend that one. It seems like a nice, mild combination. Decyl glucoside can be good, but ask them for the pH as they aren't sharing it on their site or in the data sheet.

As for the Soap Kitchen, get your liquid Crothix from them. They have the SCI priills - Jordapon - and cocamidopropyl betaine there, too. Plantapon LGC or decyl glucoside might be good choices, but ask them about the pH information.

If you have normal to oily hair, the C14-16 olefin sulfonate is awesome! That's one of my favourite ones!

Sorry for the delay in responding. I hope this helps!

Kirsten Thomas. said...

scrambling to find the ingredients in time! I have read a lot of bad things about jojoba beads lately. Apparently the fish they are bringing up have those beads in them. They don't dissolve in the ocean and go straight out from our home sinks into the ocean. Anyway, not to sound all green and earthy, but I have stopped buying or making with those. My question is, will the small amount in the recipes make much of a difference if I leave them out? Will I just adjust the water? thanks, appreciate it!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kirsten! I wonder if you are thinking about the little plastic micro beads? Jojoba beads are made from jojoba oil, and are very biodegradable. They're not only edible but digestible, although I can't speak to their flavour. :-)

If you want to leave them out, that's fine, but you won't have an exfoliating product unless you find another physical exfoliant that won't dissolve in water. I can't stand the various seeds available for this purpose for a number of reasons, but they might be your cup of tea!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Amanda! You can use all kinds of things in place of aloe vera! You can just use more distilled water in its place, or use another water soluble thing. For instance, a hydrosol would be very nice. (I love chamomile for my rosacea prone skin, but there are tons of choices! Click here to see some more ideas!) Witch hazel is a nice choice, too.

Amanda Vanags said...

Thank you so much!I am sooo looking forward to this!

Cathi Westrop said...

OMGosh!! beyond excited that you are doing this Susan & cant wait to start. I saw the post while browsing for tips on making cleansers today so perfect timing. I already have most of whats on your ingredient list and have an order in my cart for voyageur so I'll just go inventory everything and add whats missing.
p.s sorry to hear about your Mum, I can only hope & pray she is doing better

noman ali said...

I am so excited to read this blog and trying to shop all ingredients to do such experiments. Many thanks Susan.

Geege98 said...

Howdy from Texas!

I have a question regarding the chamomile and rosemary extracts. Instead of those, can I use essential oils? I have those on hand.

Thanks so much for the hard work and time you put into this blog for those of us who are new to this craft!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Geege98! You can use essential oils, but there are two things to consider: One, they are oils and might not emulsify well into things like toners without solubilizers, which can be sticky. Two, they will have a smell, and you might not like to have that on your face. Three, the essential oils have different properties than the water soluble portion of the plant, which is fine, but it might offer different things to your skin.

I realize there were three things to consider, but I'm too lazy to correct it... :-)

Lisa Dender said...

Susan... great to see all these new projects... Question: Witch Hazel... are you talking about the kind in the grocery store (mostly alcohol) or the distilled/non-alcohol based?