Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Emulsifiers: Emulthix - a light to medium weight lotion with all kinds of botanical ingredients

Last week, we took a look at Emulthix, a cold process emulsifier. We made a nice, basic lotion with pumpkin seed oil, water, preservative, and emulsifier, then we made it a bit more complicated by adding humectants, proteins, extracts, and more! You know me, though, there's no way I can stop there! Let's make a few versions with some of my favourite things!

I always start with my goal or purpose. In this case, I want a light, slightly occlusive moisturizer for my hands and body. I think I'd like it a little thicker than last week's version, but I still want it to be slippery and easy to apply. My hands get really trashed during the day with crafting and too much washing, so I want something that is protecting, soothing, and moisturizing with loads of hydrating ingredients.

For the oils, we can use anything we wish, but I think I'm going to create one with my favourite combination, kukui nut oil and babassu oil. (You had to know I would try this emulsifier with these oils!) I find this combination offers a less greasy feeling, silky, extremely moisturizing combination.

The babassu oil thickens the product slightly and creates a light, occlusive layer, which is just lovely. It's a great substitute for coconut oil, which can be a bit greasy in recipes. (You could use coconut oil here, if you wish...)

Kukui nut oil has a lot of linoleic and linolenic fatty acids, which help speed up skin's ability to repair barrier damage and decrease transepidermal water loss.

No, I don't work for the babassu advisory council. I don't think there is one, but if there were, I wouldn't work for them. I just have a serious love for this solid oil! 

Remember, you can use whatever oils and butters you want here by substituting your favourites. These are just the ones I really like.

I think I'll use a little thickener here in the form of cetyl alcohol. If you want something slightly less greasy feeling, you could use behenyl alcohol. If you want something more waxy, consider using cetearyl alcohol.

A lotion isn't a lotion for me without a humectant. These hygroscopic ingredients draw water from the atmosphere for extra hydration. I've got all kinds in my workshop, but the ones I use the most are glycerin and sodium lactate. Either would be great in this product, but I think I'll go for glycerin in this as it can withstand washing, and I tend to wash my hands a few times during the day. I'll use it at 3%, but you could use a number of different humectants here like 2% sodium lactate, 2% sodium PCA, 3% honeyquat, and so on.

I think I'd like to include some chamomile extract in this product. It's an anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant. It also reduces transepidermal water loss for up to 48 hours, which is pretty awesome. I think I'll use a powdered extract at 0.5% in the water phase.

And what about marshmallow extract? I have a nice water soluble one that can offer film forming and anti-inflammatory properties. I think I'll use it at 5% in the water phase. And what about this water soluble calendula I have? It offers anti-inflammatory properties and soothes inflamed and chapped skin, which sounds pretty awesome to me!

I can't not use panthenol as it's exactly what I want in this recipe. It will help with chapped or wounded skin. It improves hydration and helps speed up skin's barrier repair mechanisms. I definitely have to use it at 2% in this recipe!

I think I'll try some water soluble colloidal oatmeal* (from Formulator Sample Shop) at up to 10% in the water phase. It's supposed to soothe and moisturize, which is exactly what I want.

And I'm adding allantoin as it's awesome and does all these things I want, from soothing chapped or broken skin to forming an occlusive layer. Why wouldn't I use this awesome ingredient?

Please remember that you have to use distilled, de-ionized, or reverse osmosis water in this recipe as we aren't heating it. Filtered water just doesn't cut it here.

10% babassu oil
10% kukui nut oil
5% Emulthix
3% cetyl alcohol

45.5% distilled water
10% colloidal oat
5% marshmallow extract
5% calendula extract
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

COOL DOWN PHASE (if necessary)
2% panthenol
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% liqud Germall Plus

Weigh your oil phase into a larger container, as the water will be poured into the oil. Heat the oil phase in a double boiler until the babassu oil and cetyl alcohol are just melted. (Your oil will be clear when you have heated it enough.)

Weigh your water phase into a container. You can heat the water slightly before adding to dissolve the powders a little easier.

Pour the water phase into the oil phase in a slow stream while mixing with a stick or immersion blender. And you're done! Woo!

What do I think of this version? I really like it! It's glidy and slippery without being watery. It's just occlusive enough to make me feel like I have something on my skin when I apply it and an hour later. I've been using it for a few days now, and my hands definitely look better than when I started with my cuticles looking far less dry than they did earlier in the week. I like this recipe! And I really like not having to heat and hold!

Point of Interest: I do get free things from time to time from suppliers, and the emulsifer, Emulthix, is one of those things that Jen at Lotioncrafter has given me. None of the links you click to any site on this blog affiliate links - I just learned what those were and thought I should re-assure you, my lovely readers, that I make no money and gain no reward if you buy something from any supplier anywhere. I provide you with buying information for those harder to find ingredients because you've said you wanted it!

Join me tomorrow for more fun with Emulthix when we create a light facial lotion with Emulthix.

Related posts:
Emulsifiers: Emulthix
Emulsifiers: Emulthix - a light, cold process lotion
Emulsifiers: Emulthix - a light, cold process lotion with white tea, pumpkin seed oil, and baobab protein


Christina said...

I'm looking forward to trying this! Sounds amazing and I love using extracts!

Emily Coutts said...

Hi Susan, I've been following your blog for a few months and it is fantastic! I also think it is a lovely thing that you're supporting youth groups! I love the sounds of cold emulsions and have always wanted to try one, but I have been worried that there would be beasties in my oil if I didn't heat and hold it - I'm guessing that this is overridden by the preservative?
Thanks heaps,
Emily C

Kim L said...

Susan, I recently read that when using allantoin it is critical to heat & hold so the "glass-like shards" can appropriately solubilize. Since reading this, I have cut back on using it, as the whole concept of glass shards terrifies me! Your thoughts? Thanks so much for all you do!
Kim L

Susan L said...

Has anyone from Canada ordered Emulthix from Lotioncrafter? This is the only source I can find and I'm concerned about taxes and duties. If shipped by USPS are there any additional charges for crossing the border?

Lisette Warren said...

Hi Kim,
sounds like a recrystallization problem to me! My suggestion would be that it dissolves at high temperatures and recrystallizes upon cooling. Therefore I can suggest two fixes to experiment with:
1. add at a lower temperature (say 50 degrees Celsius)and prolong mixing until it is dissolved.
2. add less allantoin, I believe it has a max usage of 2%, but try less and less til it doesn't recrystallize, and still provides that lovely moisturising effect.
Hope this helps!
PS Susan I'm an undergrad chemist and I ADORE your blog!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Emily! I'm answering your question as Sunday, August 7th's Weekend Wonderings. The short answer is - yeah, it's weird not to heat and hold, eh?

Thanks, Lizzie! Great suggestions! I'm seriously jealous of your education. I wish I could go for full semesters and immerse myself in the experience.

Hi Kim! This can happen - I wouldn't call them glass like shards as they aren't ripping your face off the way a glass shard would do, but they are really spiky and annoying - and the best way I've found to keep it from re-crystallizing is to use a small amount like 0.5% and make sure you add it to the heated water phase. I've always added it at 0.5% in the heated water phase and I've never had a shard issue. When I've added it at higher amounts - up to 2% - or in the cool down phase, I've had shards. Don't be afraid of them. Just heat and dissolve 0.5% or less and you're fine!

Hi Susan! It's hard to say when you'll get charged at the border, to be honest. I have found that I can get a package of $100 with no issues while a $20 box is torn apart and I'm charged a bundle. I'm sure there's some logic behind it, but I can't figure it out.

Do you have access to the border? I get my stuff shipped to a company called Ship Happens in Sumas, and I rarely get charged there.

Having said this, I know that Jen is starting a new program with UPS where they don't charge you some random amount - UPS wanted $18.90 for a parcel worth $17.30 - so if you're in doubt, call or email and ask them. Lotioncrafter is very receptive to customers' questions.

Debbie King said...

Hi Susan,
I've been anxiously awaiting the facial lotion post using the Emulthix...or did I miss it?
You inspire me! Thanks, Deb

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Debbie! No, you didn't miss it. I've just been super busy and couldn't get to analyzing the final product, taking pictures, and writing the post. I'll have it up shortly.

Tammy said...

Hi Susan,

I thought about adding colloidal oatmeal to a lotion I made recently and decided not to in the end -- I was worried that I was adding "food" to feed the beasties and that it might be too much strain for the preservative. I took a look at the link you provided to the oatmeal you used and it looks like exactly what I would have done -- blend some colloidal oatmeal into the solution. So can I assume it's safe to just use the colloidal oatmeal I already have and just use it at a low percentage -- like 5% or less?

Thanks Susan
(Praying for you and your mom :)