Monday, July 25, 2016

Emulsifiers: Emulthix

As you may or may not know, I was fortunate enough to visit Jen at Lotioncrafter in April. And it's taken me quite some time to inventory all the amazing ingredients she gave me before I started crafting with them.

One of my new favourites is Emulthix (INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone), a cold process emulsifier that is used at 3% to 6% to emulsify oil phases up to 50%! It's effective with lotions at pH 5.5 to 11, so you won't be able to make anything with loads of salicylic acid (BHA) or AHAs.

It's pretty easy to use. Weigh your oil phase into a larger container, as the water will be poured into the oil. Heat the oil phase if you need to get some things melted. Prepare your water phase. Pour the water phase into the oil phase in a slow stream while mixing with a stick or immersion blender. And you're done. Don't you just love cold process emulsifiers?

A few thoughts when using this...

1. You must use distilled water. This is not optional. I'm not talking about water filtered in a Brita or other container. I'm talking distilled water or reverse osmosis water. If you're concerned about your water, heat it before using.

2. You have to follow the instructions the way they're written. This has a cool way of emulsifying, and if you don't put the water phase into the oil phase in a slow stream while mixing with an immersion blender, you will mess it up.

3. Don't try to bring the pH too low. If you do, it will fall apart. It's easy not to mess with the pH of the product - don't add any serious acids.

I encourage you to visit the linked page above to learn more about this emulsifier before we use it tomorrow in a cold process lotion!

For those who think I've taken a while to get talking about my super happy fun trip to Lotioncrafter, I'm sorry. The bottom row of this cupboard contains just a few of the ingredients I brought back - I also have a box of silicones and esters! - so it's taken me a while to inventory them, let alone use them!

The aluminum containers are from Formulator Sample Shop, and there are so many awesome ingredients there, too! There's a third shelf above that one filled with all kinds of awesome colours, micas, and fragrances from Windy Point! And did I mention that there's an entire shelving unit, and at least two more boxes filled with things. Now you know why I get analysis paralysis when I get into my workshop. How to choose what I want to use when there are so may cool things???

I wanted to note that I do get free things from time to time from suppliers, so some of the ingredients from Lotioncrafter and all of the ingredients from the Formulator Sample Shop were free from the supplier. None of the links you click are affiliate links - I just learned what those were and thought I should re-assure you, my lovely readers, that I make no money or gain no reward if you buy something from any supplier anywhere. 

Join me tomorrow as we make a cold process lotion with this new and cool emulsifier! (Ha! Get it? Cool, 'cause it's a cold emulsifier?)


Mollie said...

Hi Susan. Did Jen send you any Shealoe - a butter of Shea & aloe. It is really nice, but a bit picky about temp. I've used it in a couple of lotions with Lotionpro and like it a lot. My favorite, though, is still aloe butter from Voyageur!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Mollie! I haven't used Lotioncrafter's shea-aloe, but I have used another company's before. I found it melted really easily, which is weird because it should have a higher melting point than the one from Voyageur, which is coconut oil based.

What did you use it in? I tried it in a whipped butter.

Mollie said...

I used the Shealoe at 5% in a facial lotion with Lotionpro, cetearyl alcohol, Argan, borage & Squalane. I liked the idea of getting a touch of both Shea and aloe. I put other goodies in it too. The texture is ok but should have used higher percentage of water for what I was really looking for as a facial LOTION.

I used Shealoe in a foot cream too. I also ended up using Lotionpro at 6% with stearic acid at 3% as an experiment. The oils were avocado and borage. It isn't really as thick as I would usually make for a foot cream, but I do really like the texture. I may try the this one without the peppermint so I can use it as a body lotion.

I have whipped butters on my to do list so will try Shealoe on one of those. Thanks

The instructions say not to heat it over 132 F so I have melted it separately and then added it to the oil phase after it has cooled down. Is that the technique you use?


Joyce Bonner said...

Hi Susan, hope all is well
Here's a question for you, if you're doubling your recipe, do you also double the emulsifiers (polawax, BTMS) or do you go with the 25% rule for the polawax and total the new oil phase, what about the BTMS, how would you adjust to accomodate the extra oils? Really confused on what to do.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Joyce! Check out the FAQ for more information on how to double, triple, and decatuple your products. The short answer is that you just take the recipe and multiply everything by how much you want. If you have a recipe for 100 grams and you want 300 grams, multiply everything by 3. If you want 500, multiply by 5.

If you were to make a cake and wanted two cakes, you wouldn't select out some ingredients to double. You'd multiply everything by 2 to get two cakes. It's the same thing with our recipes.

If you aren't formulating your own recipes from scratch, ignore the 25% rule and just do what the recipe says. And you don't use the 25% rule with anything other than Polawax.

Srjnm said...

Hi Susan! How would you compare Emulthix and Aristoflex. I know you have worked with both these cold emulsifiers. When would you use one over the other or what are the pros/cons of each? Which one do you like best? Thank you for sharing your experience with these ingredients. I've been interested in trying them.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Srjnm! I've written my response to your awesome question as today's Weekend Wonderings. The short answer is...I'm not sure!