Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Emulsifiers: Emulthix - a light, cold process lotion with white tea, pumpkin seed oil, and baobab protein

You know I can't leave well enough alone, so I thought I'd take yesterday's Emulthix recipe and add some of my favourite ingredients to take it from great to fan-freakin'-tastic!

Want to know more about Emulthix? Cick here! 

Let's alter my heated water phase first. I'm adding a humectant - sodium lactate - along with allantoin as my barrier ingredient and hydrolyzed baobab protein* as a film former and oil-free moisturizer. (Click for more on hydrolyzed proteins.)

I'm adding quaternized rice, a cationic polymer, to create a film and condition my skin. You could use any other cationic polymer - like honeyquat or polyquaternium 7 - in its place. And, of course, my favourite panthenol!

For fun, I'm adding water soluble white tea extract*, which acts as an anti-oxidant full of lovely catechins, much like green tea extract, at 5% and aloe vera at 10% to moisturize and film form. Feel free to use your favourite extracts in here.

For the oil phase, I'm leaving it as pumpkin seed oil because I like it and it has a nice long shelf life. If you wanted to make this a drier, lighter, more absorbant lotion, you could use a really light oil like fractionated coconut oil, squalane, or meadowfoam seed oil.

If you wanted something dry and silky, consider using kukui nut oil. Oh, you know what would be an awesome combination? Kukui nut oil with babassu. It'd thicken up a bit, but it'd be super silky and less greasy feeling.

This would be a great place to use an ester! C12-15 alkyl benzoate would make a light feeling, less greasy product. Cetearyl ethylhexanoate would feel lighter and less greasy, while ethylhexyl palmitate will make it lighter still.

Remember this: For any lotion recipe you see on my blog, you can substitute any oil for any oil, any butter for any butter, any oil for any butter, and any butter for any oil. So go nuts coming up with awesome combinations your skin enjoys! (Check out this post in the FAQ for more information!)

WHITE TEA, PUMPKIN SEED & BAOBAB COLD PROCESS LOTION
OIL PHASE
20% pumpkin seed oil
5% Emulthix

WATER PHASE
2% sodium lactate
2% panthenol
0.5% allantoin
2% hydrolyzed baobab protein
2% quaternized rice
10% aloe vera
5% liquid white tea extract
50.5% distilled water
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Weigh your oil phase into a larger container, as the water will be poured into the oil. Heat the oil phase if you need to get some things melted (but we don't, in this case). Prepare your water phase. Pour the water phase into the oil phase in a slow stream while mixing with a stick or immersion blender. And you're done! Rejoice!

My tester, Judy, thought it went on smoothly, and felt dry within 2 hours.

Wanda, my bestie, said that it was a nice, light consistency for a day time moisturier. It absorbed well, but the humidity is high so that might have delayed the absorption. Not sticky at all. No burning. (I think it was the Vitamin C and ferulic acid Aristoflex lotion that caused some burning, so she analyzes a lot of recipes this way! No burning = awesome lotion in our books!)

I've been enjoying this one as a light hand lotion at work. It goes on smoothly and my hands really feel moisturized, even though it's not a thick lotion.

Join me tomorrow for another exciting Emulthix lotion recipe!

The * beside the name takes you to the supplier of the ingredient. As a note, I wanted to note that I do get free things from time to time from suppliers, and this emulsifier, Emulthix, and the baobab protein were given to me by Jen of Lotioncrafter. The white tea extract came from Formulator Sample Shop. None of the links you click to any site on this blog affiliate links - I just learned what those were and thought I should re-assure you, my lovely readers, that I make no money or gain no reward if you buy something from any supplier anywhere. I provide you with buying information for those harder to find ingredients because you've said you wanted it! 

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