Friday, April 1, 2016

Weekday Wonderings: European suppliers' list! Gel eye liners! The soaping effect and cyclomethicone?

Kin created this great list of European Suppliers! Hope it's useful to you, my lovely readers. Download it or visit it again in the FAQ suppliers' section. Thanks, Kim!

And check out Simone's experiments with turning a liquid gel eye liner sealant into a liquid gel eye liner! I can't wait to try all kinds of crazy new colours this weekend!

In this post on cyclomethicone, Lisa asks: I read your section about soaping effect in lotions. I ended up purchasing dimethicone, and I will be testing that out. I like that cyclomethicone imparts a dry, silky feel in skin and hair products. Do you think I can use cyclomethicone in place of dimeethicone? Will Cyclomethicone help with the soaping effect?

First, let's take a look at the soaping effect. This is when your lotion goes on white and stays white on your skin for a bit. Why is this happening? It's saponification!

The fatty acids in the lotion, combined with an alkaline ingredient like triethanolamine or potassium hydroxide, create a soap, which acts as the emulsifier in your lotion. (A common combination is triethanolamine and stearic acid.) If you're using a stearate or oleate based emulsifier, you are bringing the water and oil together in your lotion by creating a soap, which is going to leave those white streaks when you apply it. This can happen when you're using stearic acid on its own. 

How to get rid of it? Use a non-ionic emulsifier like Polawax, e-mulsifying wax, Lotionpro 165 or a cationic emulsifer like Incroquat BTMS-50. Avoid stearic acid. Or add dimethicone at 2% to 3%.  

Cyclomethicone is another silicone, but it's not the same as dimethicone, so it won't get rid of the soaping effect in your products. It's not a direct replacement for dimethicone, but then again, nothing really is. (Yes, I know there are dimethicone replacements like bamboo isoflavones, but nothing really matches it for awesome-ness. Just like you can't find a replacement for kukui nut oil or babassu oil!

4 comments:

Lise M Andersen said...

Thanks to Kim for the list of suppliers-- there are a couple I didn't know of. Yay!

Anna said...

Hi Susan!

Thanks to Kin for the list. There was one UK company I'd not heard of, so they've been added to the (long) list in favourites!

I don't know whether Kin is open to any additions to the existing list, but there is another French company worth a mention: www.huiles-et-sens.com I ordered Co-Q10 in powder form from them and received it stupidly fast. :D

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anna! Could you visit the FAQ and add your comments to the European suppliers' list? I will update Kim's file from time to time, and that'll be where I look for additions. Thanks!

Erica Echternach said...

I stopped using stearic acid because of the soaping. No matter how I incorporated it, I always seemed to get somewhat of a soaping effect.