Monday, March 21, 2016

Weekday Wondering: How to make an eye liner sealant?

In this post Gels: Making an eye liner sealant, Simone asks: I have looked for Part 2 of the recipe for the eye sealant on your blog but without success. Can you tell me if it exists? I was so excited at finding a supplier of PVP closer to Australia I forgot to check the recipe, now I have the ingredients but don't know the quantities.

Yeah, I flaked out and didn't post one! Thanks for bringing this to my attention! Let's make an eye liner sealant prototype.

The first step is to make up my usual thick gel recipe

97% distilled water
1.2% carbomer (Ultrez 20)
0.9% TEA (triethanolamine) or 18% lye solution
1.6% liquid panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall plus

Weigh the carbomer into the distilled water and allow it to be wetted before to move on. For Ultrez 20, you can wait about three minutes before neutralizing the gel with the TEA. Check your suppliers' suggestions for the type of carbomer you have if it isn't Ultrez 20. Once you neutralize the gel with the TEA, add the other ingredients and mix well. It should thicken up in less than a minute. Yay! You have gel!

You can use this gel or use pre-made gel. It's up to you.

We're making this very thick so it can handle the inclusion of more liquid. I think it may be too thick for this application, so you could try a thinner version of the gel...

96.6% distilled water
1% Ultrez 20
0.9% TEA
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Follow the directions above.

From the thicker gel recipe, I removed 19 grams and added 1 gram propylene glycol (but any humectant like glycerin will work as a plasticizer for the product) and 3 grams PVP or AMP. I thought this version was nice and wasn't sticky, which is what I wanted from the product. It dried quickly. I gave this to my testers and they liked it, although a few suggested it could be thinner. I didn't try a thinner version as I saw a shiny thing and my attention span wandered, as it is prone to do! You could thin this down if you wish by making the thinner gel recipe or by adding a bit of distilled water, maybe 1 - 2 grams? Try 1 gram first and see what you think.

For a second test, I removed 21 grams of gel, and added 2 grams of propylene glycol and 5 grams of PVP or AMP. This version was thinner, but was sticky and didn't dry quickly. I hated this and didn't bother to share it with my testers.

If you want do some experimenting, I'd go with 3 grams of PVP or AMP to 19 to 20 grams of gel and see what you think . You could go a little higher, but it'll get stickier with each additional gram. You will probably have to tweak it to your personal preferences for viscosity and to your climate - you mentioned you live in Australia - but I hope that's a start!

Please come back and let us know how it turned out for you!


Simone said...

Hi Susan, Thank you so much for your speedy response, I can hardly wait to try the recipe, I am a bit slow at the moment as I am just finishing off a Chemotherapy cycle but I should be able to try it in the next week or so when I have a bit more get up and go. I will let you know how it worked then.
Thanks again for an unbelievable blog, I wonder what I did before I stumbled across it.
Susan - just a curiosity question.. Do you happen know what happened to a Mineral Makeup ingredient supplier called The Conservatorie, Cucamonga, CA ? they had great pigment recipes and an amazing selection of coloured micas, one day they just posted that they were closed for moving warehouses and never came back on the net.
Will post my results soon.

Simone said...

Hi Susan,
Well I used your recipe with the thicker gel and added 1g propylene glycol and 3g PVP to 19g gel. I stressed when I unsuccessfully tried to fill a liner/brush container and it felt very sticky on the fingers ( not where it is supposed to be worn LOL). Obviously I need to do some research on the subject of container filling.

I decided to add black oxide to half and see if I could use it as an eye liner ..perfect. It didn't take any longer to dry than commercial products. I am very happy with the results.
Thanks again I'm now off to make one of your hair shampoos to help with the "Chemo Curls". I will try to choose a recipe or two of my favourite products from your blog and post them next time, as per your request.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

That is awesome, Simone! I'll be experimenting with all kinds of crazy colours this weekend. Thanks for coming back to report your results!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Simone! I wanted to wish you all my good thoughts as you go through this chemo process. If there's something you want to make or need some help with, don't hesitate to write me directly and we can work on that thing!

What are the needs of Chemo Curls? If you're okay with sharing, maybe we can figure out the hair type and what would work best there.

Simone said...

Hi Susan,
Thanks for your kind wishes. The Chemo Curls are the result of the radiation treatment; apparently the radiation affects the follicles, which in turn distorts the shape of the new hairs. There doesn’t appear to be any remedy, just time. Not everyone gets regrowth and searching on the internet suggests that 5 months after all treatments are finished you can hope for new hair and about 1 year after that you may find that your new hair is looking similar to your original. I have always had a head full of very thick strong hair and luckily even the radiation couldn’t get rid of all of it, nor could the Chemotherapy. Most of my hair has grown back really quickly and I am now the proud owner of a hair style similar to having a hamburger bun on either side of my head, just behind my ears, made up of incredibly strong and tight curls not dissimilar to the native inhabitants of New Guinea. Although this look may be interesting it is not my preferred one. I don’t know if you would call it frizzy but I think that would be my closest description. I have been applying straight Coconut oil and am about to try your “Duplication for OJON Revitalizing 2 Minute Hair Mask. The coconut oil seems to tame it a little, on a scale of 1 to 100 say a 2 and it does seem to soften the hair, or else I am just being overly optimistic. I will let you know how the mask goes.
Thanks again for all the time and knowledge you share and I hope your back is continuing to improve.

Simone said...

Hi Susan,
Thought I’d give you an update on how the mask went. I made it according to your recipe May 2 2011 (Ojon Revitalising Mask) but of course I can’t leave the unknown alone so I added 3% collagen protein and 1% Tripeptide-5 (Both available from Making Cosmetics) and substituted Aloe Vera juice for the water content. It was quite bizarre, I applied the mask by hand to the roots and scalp and then to the rest of my hair and let it soak in. About 5 to 10 minutes later the hair that is most effected by the cancer treatments went into tighter curls. I thought I was imagining it but the next day I did it again to show my husband and the same result. I must say that after washing my hair it felt really soft and silky, if this is possible with very coarse hair! I have washed it twice since and the curls are still really tight but the hair definitely feels softer. It is really hard to do a controlled test as the chemo is still in my system so I will try again in a month or so when this lot of hair has had time to grow a bit. I have been off the Chemo for 1 month and finished the radiation 7 months ago, and the specialists say now is the time that the body is supposed to be getting back to normal. Perhaps this is a new product that will help all those straight haired people who want curls but somehow I think you might need some radiation for it to work (LOL). I’ll let you know if anything miraculous happens.
PS Sorry if I have repeated this comment but I can't see if I hit the send button.

Marcella Hall said...

Hi Susan,
I have completely fallen in love with your blog. So many useful recipes! I was wondering if you have a recipe for eyeliner in a jar. Something like Mac's blacktrack or those funky Colourpop cream liners? I cannot for the life of me find one that isn't meant to be put into a pencil and I have tried adding oils to those recipes but all I got was more of a lip balm that did not swatch very well. I have so many micas, oxides and glitters that I want to try out. I just need a base!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

This is awesome, Simone! Thank you so much for sharing it with us! I hope you're on the mend and feeling better with silky, soft hair!

HI Marcella. Thank you for your kind words. Could you please attach a few links that contain ingredient lists for these products as I'm not really sure what you mean. Thanks!

JBAUM said...

Hi Susan! I have a similar avenue of interest to Marcella that posted above.
Looking for ways to make a heavily pigmented eyeliner that dries down a bit after it s spread across the eyelid. Almost something of a liner / cream shadow hybrid. I'm having a world of disappointment with Waxes, oils, stearin acid, phenoxyethanol, glycols, silicone spheres, kaolin clay and All these pigments. Results rand from too dry, to oily, not pigmented enough. Phewwwww.

Well I've included some some ingredient list from commercial products that do well to solve these issues, would love to know your thoughts on what seems feasible for a hobbiest. Trying to make this perfect car paint effect for eyes that is crease proof, high color payoff and able to be blended on the edges and isn't going to crumble. Maybe too tall of an order?

MAC fluid line -
Isododecane, cyclopentasiloxane, polytheylene, trimethylsiloxysilicate, disteardimonium hectorite, propylene carbonate, tocopheryl acetate, retinyl palmitate, lecithin, caprylyl glycol, triethoxycaprylylsilane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, phenyl trimethicone, ceramide 2, hexylene glycol, barium sulfate, BHT, phenoxyethanol [ /- mica, titanium dioxide (CI 77891), iron oxides (Cl 77491), iron oxides (Cl 77491, Cl 77492, Cl 77499), bismuth oxychloride (Cl 77163), blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), carmine (Cl 75470), chromium hydroxide green (Cl 77289), chromium oxide greens (Cl 77288), ferric ferrocyanide (Cl 77510), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (Cl 77007), yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140)]

Chanel illusion de ombré "a unique spongy, mousse-like texture that blends on smoothly"

Laura Mercier caviar color stick. Goes on incredibly smooth, blends easily and holds in place
Cyclopentasiloxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Mica, Polyethylene, Lauroyl Lysine, Ozokerite, Octyldodecanol, Synthetic Beeswax, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid. May Contain: Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides), Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide).

Admin said...

ey susan! Hope you are doing fine! Could you teach me a little bit about makeup primers? Or oil controlling setting sprays like urban decays's? I think most primers are silicone based.. It makes me nervous to put a lot of silicones in my face, or is it completely safe? I feel like they will clog my pores. Any insight on formulating this kind of products would be great! Thank you, have a good day :)