Thursday, March 24, 2016

Emulsifiers: Aristoflex AVC - a light lotion with babassu oil

Today we'll take a look at the last of my Aristoflex AVC lotions - okay, the last for a bit because I'm in love with this emulsifier, and you'll definitely see more in the future.

I'm using many of the same ingredients as my previous lotions with this emulsifier, so I'll refer you to the related posts links below to learn more about why I'm including allantoin, panthenol, and sea kelp bioferment.

If you didn't know already, I love love love babassu oil. It's a solid oil very similar to coconut oil, but it offers a non-greasy silky feeling. It melts at slightly above room temperature - 24˚C or 76˚F - so it'll melt on contact with your skin. It's a wonderful inclusion in this recipe if you're looking for a light, non-greasy moisturizer or body milk. Because it's solid at room temperature, you'll get a thicker lotion with this inclusion, more like the first one I did in this series. (This one with silicones and esters...)

Please note, I am not responsible for your addiction to babassu oil. I will not encourage you to try it with kukui oil, like I do in this recipe, nor will I encourage you to try it in a body butter, like this recipe. Or to use it in a whipped butter, like this recipe or like this recipe. If you get addicted to it,  don't come looking for me to blame! I warned you! 

89.5% distilled water
2.5% panthenol
3% sea kelp bioferment
0.5% allantoin
5% babassu oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% Aristoflex AVC

Measure distilled or de-ionized water into a container, then add the rest of the ingredients in order. You will need to melt the babassu oil slightly, so just heat it up in a double boiler for a few minutes until liquid, then add to the lotion container. Mix well. Bottle and rejoice!

What did I think about this lotion? I think it's my favourite of the six! I love the light, non-greasy feeling and the silkiness of the babassu oil. I can feel it on my skin a little while later, but it doesn't feel greasy or heavy. I think this is my new body milk! (I can't use oil based moisutrizers on my face, so it's all about the body lotions for me!)

Related posts:
Aristoflex AVC - light lotion with pumpkin seed, allantoin, and sea kelp bioferment
Aristoflex AVC - a serum with Vitamin C and ferulic acid
Aristoflex AVC - a light lotion with NAG, ceramides, and quaternized rice
Aristoflex AVC - a light lotion with resveratrol, allantoin, and panthenol

Now that we're at the end of this series about using Aristoflex AVC, what have I learned? I've learned that this is definitely facial moisturizer viscosity, not hand lotion or thicker. And that's okay. It can be made in a few minutes, which means you can play for hours and make a dozen lotions to share with friends and family, which is more amazing than you think it is!

You can make it thicker by using cetyl alcohol or stearic acid, but you have to melt the ingredients, which means you aren't making it cold any more. That's not a bad thing - we did it with the babassu oil -  but remember you don't really want to go above 5% oils and 1% Aristoflex AVC, so you don't have much space to play with emollients.

If you're hoping to use an extract with this emulsifier, do a small test batch to see how it reacts. I had the bright idea to use liquid cucumber extract and marshmallow extract, and I ended up with a gross mess. I'm not sure which one was the culprit - which is why I tell you to add one ingredient at a time to a recipe - but I'm so glad I didn't start with 500 grams!

I have 500 grams, which will probably last me a lifetime, or at least 500 - 100 gram batches of lotion, which is, as you can imagine, a whole lotta moisturizing for one person!

Join me Tuesday as we take a look at another cold process emulsifier, Sepiplus 400! (I get a four day weekend for Easter, so I'll be doing lots of playing in the workshop and updating you as I go, as well as answering your questions and comments, so join me for those, too!)


Rose said...

Hi Susan
Big fan of your site.
Just wondering what I can use in place of sea kelp?
I'm a newbie!
Thanks for any help.

Lise M Andersen said...

dang it Susan, Now I HAVE to try babassu oil. I know gyou warned me, but it sounds like the answer to what I'm looking for in my quest to create non-greasy-feeling body butter. :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Rose! If you take a look at the first Aristoflex post - linked above - you'll see it's hard to use any proteins in this product, so I can't really suggest a replacement. Just use more water and see how you like it.

Hi Lise! It's not my fault that you want to use the silky, non-greasy, luxurious solid oil we call babassu! :-)

Julie said...

Hi Susan,
Your blog is so inspiring, thank you for all that you do!

I am wondering why you don't use the heat and hold method for these lotions? Are there times when this method is more appropriate than others? Or is it just because these are small batch tests?


Heo Con said...

Thank you for your sharing.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Julie! Thank you for your kind words. The short answer is yes, there are times we heat and hold, and other times we don't. In the case of Aristoflex, we don't need to heat and hold to use it. We can heat things that need to be heated, like fatty acids or alcohols, but we don't need to do the 20 minute thing to use this emulsifier. That's why it's so awesome!!!

Susan M. said...

Hi Susan,
Thank you for introducing us to Aristoflex! I have started a page in my book on this emulsifier listing the do's and don'ts (what to add, what not to add) for those times that I need to whip up a quick batch of light lotion in a hurry - thank you to your recent posts :).

I was looking for a gentle light lotion to meet the needs of my friend for her 22 month old. He has dry patches on his cheeks that appear red and inflamed. She has tried a few things on his cheeks with minimal success. I made two versions of the Aristoflex AVC lotion above. The anti-inflammatory, healing, and soothing benefits of the ingredients is what drew my attention to this recipe. The first batch I made as above with panthenol, allantoin, and babassu oil, leaving out the sea kelp and increasing water by 3%. It turned out really nice. The consistency was thick like a gel, but not sticky going on. It was not greasy and seemed to absorb quickly. All good characteristics for a cream on a toddlers face. I thought I would try and improve it a bit by adding glycerin and a bit of vitamin E oil to the recipe. Looking at the original recipe again, I replaced the sea kelp with glycerin, and added .5% vitamin E oil, reducing Babassu to 4.5%. This one turned out very similar in consistency, however with the glycerin, there is a very slight drag, and slight delay in absorption.
After only a few days of using the first batch on her son, there was a noticeable improvement in the appearance of the skin on his cheeks - reduced redness and not as dry feeling. She continues to use this on him daily, and has only been using the second version for a few days, but so far, all is looking good!!
As far as my experience with AVC, it is very easy to use. I found that if I lightly mixed in each ingredient after adding to the water, and immediately used the stick blender after adding the aristoflex, it came together beautifully and quickly. I also learned that the water should be a room temperature. My distilled water was on the cool side as I store my products in the basement in a cabinet, so they are cooler. When I added the melted babassu oil, it started to solidify in little sand beads. I rectified this with the immersion blender. All in all, I'm happy with this new emulsifier. I am hoping to try it in some facial serums, as it definitely has the characteristics I like in a gel type facial serum.

Thanks again for introducing this awesome product!!