Wednesday, March 23, 2016

Emulsifiers: Aristoflex AVC - a light lotion with resveratrol, panthenol, and allantoin

Before I took my break, we were having fun formulating with Aristoflex AVC, a new emulsifier we can work with cold to make light lotions!

This recipe would be suitable for a light body milk or facial moisturizer. It is very light, and spreads very well without leaving behind a greasy look or white soaping effect.

Why am I using the ingredients I'm using? As I've mentioned before, we can't use hydrolyzed proteins with Aristoflex as it ruins the viscosity, so I'm turning to sea kelp or bull kelp bioferment to provide me with a film former and non-oil moisturizer. I'm using glycerin as my humectant, and as a solvent for dissolving the resveratrol. You know I love panthenol and use it as a hydrator, anti-inflammatory, and skin barrier repair kit. I love allantoin for its barrier protection, and I like the moringa seed extract for its C12-15 alkyl benzoate - a very light ester like fractionated coconut oil - because I'm going for something that is occlusive, but doesn't feel that way.

I've chosen to use resveratrol because there's so much great science coming out about this ingredient! It's a very good anti-oxidant and free radical scavenger. It is a great anti-inflammatory, and it can inhibit cell growth. It is advertised as reducing the signs of aging, and it does this by ameliorating the effects of UVB caused skin damage. The new thing I've learned is that it can be used for diabetic wound care because it's shown some anti-bacterial and anti-fungal activity, and it's being used for acne products.

As a note, before you ask me why we can't use this as a preservative, 5 grams is almost $10, so it's simply not proven or cost effective. 

86% distilled water
4% sea kelp bioferment
3% moringa seed extract in C12-15 alkyl benzoate or any other light oil, like fractionated coconut oil
2% panthenol
0.5% resveratrol dissolved in 2% glycerin
0.5% allantoin
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% aristoflex AVC

Measure distilled or de-ionized water into a container. Measure the glycerin into a small shot glass, then add the resveratrol and stir until dissolved. Add this to the container. Add the rest of the ingredients in any order, but put the Aristoflex AVC in at the end. Mix well. Bottle and rejoice.

I really like this version! It is very thin - it's definitely more like a body milk or thin facial moisturizer than a lotion! If you compare this to the previous recipes - or tomorrow's recipe - it's very thin! I don't know if you could spray it through a mister as I haven't tried it yet, but I think you could. (Why haven't I tried it? Oh, right, the searing back pain that's kept me on the couch for weeks! But I could try it now....)

Related posts:
Aristoflex AVC - light lotion with pumpkin seed, allantoin, and sea kelp bioferment
Aristoflex AVC - a serum with Vitamin C and ferulic acid
Aristoflex AVC - a light lotion with NAG, ceramides, and quaternized rice

For those of you interested in finding Aristoflex AVC, Michele at Windy Point Soap (Alberta) has it coming in a few weeks! If you're in Canada, this is a woo hoo situation for us! If you're in the States, your dollar is worth something like ten of ours, so order from her too and rejoice that you have spent way less than you expected! If you're looking for resveratrol, I found mine at Lotioncrafter! The moringa seed extract (oil soluble) is from Formulator Sample Shop. If you just want plain old C12-15 alkyl benzoate, you can get it at lots of places, including Lotioncrafter.

Note: By popular request, I'm listing where I found harder-to-find ingredients at the bottom of recipe posts. I am not being compensated in any way by any of these companies to mention them on the blog. (In fact, they don't even know I'm doing it! I hope that's okay with them!) I'm doing it to make it easier to find the ingredients easier for you to find! If this bothers you, please let me know as the last thing I want to do is annoy you, my wonderful readers. I'm trying to anticipate the inevitable questions about where to find that weird ingredient by doing this. If you're looking for ingredients near you, check out the frequently asked questions page and scroll down to find suppliers in various parts of the world. 

Join me tomorrow for the last of my experimental Aristoflex AVC recipes!


Seb said...

Hi Susan. I see your cream is quite thin compared to ordinary Aristoflex cream. What ingredients do you think thinned your cream?

Kim V said...

I think the European suppliers list needs an update as some shops are no longer in bussiness and the 3th german link is not going anywhere (needs to be rohstoff not ohstoffe). I think aroma-zone deserves a spot there to. It's a french site but very easy to translate with chrome. Personally I wouldn't go there for oils and butters but they have a nice amount of emulsifiers, thickeners, surfactants, essential oils, extracts,... And lots of Cool Down goodies. (Not being paid to say this,,i just like them).

I'd defenitely like to try this recipe but sadly I'm nowhere near your supplier...

Laura said...

Sometimes the use of liquid extracts is a bit confusing to me. I thought the cool phase can't be over 3% to maintain a consistent emulsion, but the suggested rate of many liquid extracts go way over that. How do you prevent your batch from being messed up by adding too many cooler ingredients at the end?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Seb! I've been getting all kinds of results with the Aristoflex, so it's not the thinnest or thickest one I've made. I suspect it's the sea kelp bioferment, but I still have many more experiments to make!

Hi Kim! There's a post in the FAQ with European suppliers, so can I refer you there to make your comment where people looking for said suppliers can see it? The post is only as good as the information people post in it, and I really don't have time to update it This is great information I hope you'll share!

Sorry, Laura, I'm not understanding your question. Are you talking about lotions in general or ones with this emulsifier? I've never seen anything that says a cool down phase needs to be no more than x% to work. We don't want to add tons of ingredients in the cool down phase - I address that in many places all over the blog - but we can put quite a bit in there. For Aristoflex, it's kind of a moot point as it can be made cold.

Kim V said...

Hii Susan!
I've just sent you an email with an updated list of European Suppliers. I hope it arrived and that it will be of some use!

Susan M. said...

Hi Susan,
I am looking at your ARISTOFLEX AVC LOTION WITH RESVERATROL, PANTHENOL, AND ALLANTOIN recipe and read up on your resveratrol thread as well. I don't have resveratrol, and didn't find it at Voyageur, Windypont, Soap&More, or Creations from Eden, so I was wondering if grapeseed extract would be an acceptable substitute - although I am a bit concerned about the colour, but thought I would try a small batch to start. I have ordered some of the new exciting emulsifiers from Windypoint, including the Aristoflex AVC, and look forward to trying some new recipes, as well as fluffier emulsified butters!

Thank you so much for your wonderful blog, it's one of my favorite reads and sources of great information! A few weeks ago I was having fun formulating conditioners and my hair is loving it! Glad you are feeling better,


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Susan! No, you can't use grapeseed extract if it's coloured. It could stain your skin pretty badly. It's great stuff. But the colour gets in the way.

Thank you for your kind words! Aren't conditioners awesome? You can never go back to store bought once you've made your own!!!

Susan M. said...

Thank you Susan for getting back to me. I thought the same thing ... lovely colour that grapeseed extract, but not for my skin! I will probably just order some from Lotioncrafter in the US (ouch $$) as I cannot find it here in Canada, other than in supplements (which is usually combined with grapeseed extract as well).

I seem to get stuck on making something, changing it up, and trying to make it even better, and then I get sidetracked on to another recipe ... and so it goes. My file of 'recipes to try' has gotten huge! Love, love, love creating new products to try (and my testers love them as well!). Made the most beautiful face cream last weekend, and will be tweaking it this week with an alternate e-wax such as lotion-pro and see if I can't top it! Like you said, you can never go back to store bought once you've made your own!

Thank you again for all your work, you truly are a gifted, knowledgeable blogger! If it weren't for you, I wouldn't have two (yes two) fully stocked product cabinets!!