Aristoflex AVC, a new to me all-in-one emulsifier that creates gels and light lotions at only 1%! It's also a cold emulsifier, meaning no heating required, which is why I can make 8 in one day! On Thursday, I introduced you to a moisturizer with moringa seed oil extract (or C12-15 alkyl benzoate) and dimethicone as our only oils. Today, I tried something different.
You may know of my love of pumpkin seed oil already. It's no secret I think this oil is inexpensive, well balanced, and slightly greasy. I decided it could be the only oil in this recipe. I added sea kelp bioferment - as a film former and oil free emollient because I'm not sure yet if I can use proteins with this emulsifier.
Mine is a gel from the Formulator Sample Shop, but you may find it in other viscosities at other shops. Lotioncrafter's version is also a gel.
allantoin at 0.5% as it's a great barrier protector, moisture binder, anti-irritant, and keratolytic that's approved to help chapped, chafed, cracked, or windburned skin. I love this ingredient, and you use so little and get so much from it!
I included glycerin as it's not a proper lotion to me without a nice humectant. I used 4% in this recipe because my hand slipped! I originally wanted 3%, but I guess 4% it is!
I want to note that I based this recipe on one I read from Nanette in the Aristoflex AVC Facebook group. I saw she had used the sea kelp bioferment and figured I'd give it a try! Good job, Nanette!
MOISTURIZER WITH PUMPKIN SEED OIL, ALLANTOIN, AND BULL KELP BIOFERMENT
84% distilled water
5% pumpkin seed oil
5% sea kelp bioferment
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
Measure distilled or de-ionized water into a container, then add the glycerin, bull kelp bioferment, and allantoin. Add Aristoflex AVC, and preservative in that order. Mix well. Bottle and rejoice!
I did mention these lotions are made cold, right? It's amazing to realize that it probably took more time to come up with the recipe and get the ingredients from their boxes than it did to actually make hte lotion. It's pretty amazing!
This emulsifier can get picky around proteins and electrolytes, so perhaps the sea kelp bioferment was too much, hence the thinner viscosity? Not sure, but I do like the texture very much.
Working with Aristoflex means you have a small oil phase, and I'm working hard to find water soluble ingredients that do what I might find in oils. I'm also not able to work with proteins - which I love - and possibly cationic ingredients, so I have to choose from ingredients outside my regular rotation. I love a good challenge, which is why you'll see many more lotions with this ingredient!
For those of you interested in finding Aristoflex AVC, Michele at Windy Point Soap (Alberta) has it coming in a few weeks! If you're in Canada, this is a woo hoo situation for us! If you're in the States, your dollar is worth something like ten of ours, so order from her too and rejoice that you have spent way less than you expected!
Please note that, as usual, I have not been compensated in any way for using ingredients or writing about them on the blog. I have been sent free ingredients by Formulator Sample Shop that I am using in my products, but I do that because I love them!
Join me tomorrow when we'll make a Vitamin C and ferulic acid serum using Aristoflex AVC!