The main ingredients in this recipe are ferulic acid and Vitamin C, a combination that is purported to do all kinds of lovely things for our skin. It is the combination found in a very expensive serum, and I think it's one of the things that DIYers try when they learn about making products.
Ferulic acid is a polyphenol that offers good anti-oxidizing properties that can moisturize skin, help with light and weather damage, and might help tone down age spots. It might help stabilize Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) in our products. It should be good for protection against skin cancer and wrinkles and age spots caused by sun exposure because it protects against oxidative stress. It isn't cheap - 1 gram goes for $2.95 at Lotioncrafter - but we only use a titch in a product at around 0.5%.
Ferulic acid isn't very soluble, so we have to mix it into propylene glycol or glycerin before adding it to the product. Mix it very well, then add it to the lotion or other product you're making.
I'm adding the glycerin as it's a great humectant, but also a vehicle for dissolving the ferulic acid. I'm not using propylene glycol, even though it's more effective, because I don't have any. If I did, I'd use it in this recipe at 3% or so.
MAP liposome - Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, INCI Water & Phospholipids & Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, from the Formulator Sample Shop - is a water soluble Vitamin C product that we can add to our products. (I've used it like an oil in this recipe as I originally thought it was oil soluble). It has been proven in studies to be an anti-inflammatory that can stimulate collagen formation, lighten skin, treat hyperpigmentation, and heal wounds. Vitamin C is a very unstable ingredient - you can't just get some ascorbic acid and put it into the water phase of something and hope that it works - so you use a version made more stable in some way.
Why am I adding it? Because I'm constantly asked for a Vitamin C serum, and thought this could be a great time to try it. There are some good studies to show that it can be effective for our skin, but I'm still not sold because there seem to be a lot of things one has to do to make sure it's stable in a lotion, like have a low pH, use opaque containers, and so on. I don't know that there aren't other cheaper and easier to use ingredients that will have the same effect. That's why I'm making this and sharing with my testers to see what they think.
If you want to make this and you have some ascorbic acid, you can't just add a bunch of it to the recipe. As I mention above, it's not stable in water, so you'll need to get another version that is stable in a product, like the MAP I mention above.
ARISTOFLEX AVC VITAMIN C & FERULIC ACID SERUM
89% distilled water
5% MAP liposome
0.5% ferulic acid
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% Aristoflex AVC
Measure distilled or de-ionized water into a container. Measure the glycerin into a small shot glass, then add the ferulic acid and stir until dissolved. Add this to the container. Add 5% MAP, liquid Germall Plus, then the Aristoflex AVC. Mix well. Bottle and rejoice!
cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol?
This one is definitely going out to my testers for their opinions, which I'll share as they come in!
Please note that, as usual, I have not been compensated in any way for using ingredients or writing about them on the blog. I have been sent free ingredients by Formulator Sample Shop that I am using in my products, but I do that because I love them! When I mention a shop, it's because I love that shop, not because I've been paid to like them! There are no ads on this blog and never will be!
For those of you interested in finding Aristoflex AVC, Michele at Windy Point Soap (Alberta) has it coming in a few weeks! If you're in Canada, this is a woo hoo situation for us! If you're in the States, your dollar is worth something like ten of ours, so order from her too and rejoice that you have spent way less than you expected!
Join me tomorrow for another Aristoflex AVC lotion with N-acetyl glucosamine, ceramides, and more!