Thursday, February 18, 2016

Emulsifier: Aristoflex AVC - light lotion with silicones and oil soluble extract

I introduced you to a new emulsifier, Aristoflex AVC, yesterday. Today I'll share the first recipe I tried with it!

As with anything I get new, I like to make a small batch of the product so I can see what I think. I made a 100 gram batch of this product, and it filled five of these 15 ml or 1/2 ounce bottles. It had the viscosity of a light moisturizer, and was silky and light on my skin.

I based this recipe on one written by Esther. (Thanks, Esther! You rock!) I modified it slightly to include the extract instead of coconut oil. You can use any oil you want at 5% (no more) in this recipe. I'll show you a few other versions over the next few days.

90% distilled water
3.5% glycerin
2% dimethicone
3% moringa seed extract oil soluble
1% Aristoflex AVC
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Measure distilled or de-ionized water into a container, then add the glycerin. Add the dimethicone, oil soluble extract, Aristoflex AVC, and preservative in that order. Mix well. Bottle and rejoice! 
As an aside, I originally thought I was using moringa seed oil, but it's an extract (20%) in C12-15 alkyl benzoate (80%). This is a very light ester that feels non-greasy. Which is why this lotion feels so light and non-greasy! Moringa seed extract behaves as an anti-oxidant, which is nice for a light lotion. 

This is an awesome lotion! It is very light and non-greasy feeling. It sinks in well, but still feels like it's there an hour later. It is thin enough to go into a treatment pump bottle or a regular pump bottle. 

What could I do differently next time? Because this has such a small oil phase, we really want to focus on water soluble ingredients and extracts. The problem is that this emulsifier isn't a fan of some extracts, but I haven't been able to find out which ones it hates. This will be a lot of trial by error! I found a few though, including bull kelp bioferment and allantoin, that it can handle, so we'll take a a look at those tomorrow. 

Join me tomorrow for more fun with Aristoflex AVC! 


melian1 said...

i understood aristoflex would take up to 10% oils, so in my experiments with it, i have used 8% oils and it took it beautifully. it has remained stable. also, in my experiments, i reduced the aristroflex to .75% and it performed beautifully. i had no trouble getting crystal clear gels without glycerin, but the ones with oil were always a creamy look. sometimes whiter (like when i used esters) and sometimes more of a cream color when i used other oils (rice bran)

aristoflex is fabulous!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I know, right? I love this stuff! I want it to be thicker, so I'm hoping to experiment with some thickeners this weekend. I tried it with shea butter and it was just awful - separated eventually - but that could have been thanks to other ingredients.

hobbiz said...

Have you tried increase the amount of Aristoflex, Susan? Should it hold more oils and also thicker?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Hobbiz! In theory, yes this may work. I've seen people using 2% and 10% oils and that's my next experiment!

Febe said...

I have moringa seed oil and not the extract. I am thinking of using maybe 2% instead of the 3% extract and adding a little aloe at 2% and hydrosol at 5% in the water. Striving for a light face moisturizer for summer. Do you think the moringa oil at the 2% would make it too heavy? I haven't bought the Aristoflex yet. It looks very interesting to use.
Thanks for your thoughts!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Febe! Sorry for the very late response, but it would depend on your skin type and preferences. Something I might think is heavy might come off as lighter for you. My thought is to try a small batch and see what you think. Let us know how it turns out!