Friday, January 29, 2016

How many emulsifiers do I have?

I always take the first week of February off because I'm either sick or everyone around me is sick, and to get done what I couldn't get done over the Christmas break. (I'm not saying anything about my cold/flu status because I could jinx it, but so far, so good!)

I did an inventory and realized I have eight new emulsifiers to try! Eight! I'll figure out a base recipe and make the same thing every time changing the emulsifier and only making other alterations based on what that emulsifier can handle. For instance, not using cationic ingredients, adding a stabilizer, or reducing the amount of oils or butters. 

I'll have to make a few substitutions, but it'll be this general recipe. 

I can't wait for Sunday! Workshop time awaits! 


ebi said...

Can't wait to see the results for this!

I like montanov 68 as it's really creamy/light feeling. So far I've only made a simple 15g test batch with it, but I could definitely see it working for a luxury type face cream.

I was wondering though, what would be the best emulsifier for incorporating a small amount of water in an otherwise oil (or oils and esters) mix?

I'm trying to formulate a silicone free hair serum for shine/softness, using oils, esters and a small percentage of hydrolized proteins/silk/extracts, and it seems kind of odd adding a ton of BTMS 50/e-wax to emulsify that 5-10% or so of water with the oils.

Or would the water soluble esters already take care of emulsifying the water?

In any case, have fun experimenting today!:)

- Abby

Ester said...

I am really amazed where do you get so many samples to test, in continental europe I can't find so many choices for emulsifiersor active ingredients.all these new items come from same suppliers you have listed ?
Thanks and congratulations ,I really enjoy your blog, and I am jealous about your materials inventory !!
Best wishes

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Abby. I've used Montanov 68 a few times on the blog and have a link to it in the ingredients list on the right hand side of the blog. I prefer Simulgreen 18-2 to it, but I need to play with it a little more! It's hard to find something to create a water in oil product like the one you mention. You'd have to find a water in oil emulsifier that would be suitable for it. I'm afraid I have nothing to suggest at this time. You could try finding some oil soluble extracts and proteins. Check Lotioncrafter or Formulator Sample Shop for some.

Hi Ester! People send me these things. What you see here are from individuals as well as Lotioncrafter and Formulator Sample Shop. I'm very fortunate the people send me these lovely things!

Abby said...

Thanks so mich for taking the time to answer my question!
I "accidentally" ordered some W/O emulsifiers (the description didnt list their emulsifying properties, just that they make your hair soft) with my last haul, so I'll try those:)

Ester, if you're still following this post's comments, there are actually a ton of diy cosmetics shops in continental europe! You just have to be a bit creative in finding them;)
Though, if you're like me, who likes lots of different things, often you'll have to buy from different shops to get everything you want.

My favourites are: , they are licensed brambleberry dealers. So you can get almost all brambleberry products there. Also the cheapest place for BTMS-50. they have a lot of gracefruit products and a nice collection of actives...which brings me to... they have a kot of fragrance oils. actives, surfactants etc. has a few hard to find actives (matrixyl 3000, an eye formula with chrysin, etc), plant extracts and a nice collection of esters.

two shops I have 't tried yet but I think are definitely on my next order list: , a french site with lots of hydrosols, plant extracts, powders, actives etc, They also have recipes available for just about any ingredient they sell there, with the option of leaving/reading reviews for those recipes. A little knowledge of french is required though. , you can find a lot of emulsifiers and actives here too. Actually this shop and the above have me super excited, because I've never seen so many cool ingredients to try gathered in one shop before!

Other than that there is a brand called skin actives science (?) that have a UK shop too called There you can find a lot of actives you can put into your own recipes or you can mix them into skin actives' pre-made cream base. They are quite expensive compared to other shops, but they do have a huge collection of hard to find actives. They sometimes have 10-15% off sales. I've ordered from them several times and havent been disappointed so far.

Just check them out and I hope you can find what you're looking for:)

Ester said...

Thanks sooooo much Abby for the info. Yes, I.know some of them ,problem is i cant find all products in one webpage, like it seems to be the case in USA,Australia or Canada. sometimes customer or aftersalesservices are not so good. Btw, i found a taiwanese web callef skin essentials but never purchased there.Anyone can share experience ?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Abby and Ester! I have a section in the FAQ for listings of European suppiers - which I encourage you to post in so others can see this information - and a document linked on the right hand side of the blog with more listings. I hope they are helpful.