Tuesday, January 26, 2016

A moisturizing body wash for all skin types, especially dry

If you've been around this blog any length of time, you'll know how much I love body washes. I design them to be cleansing but moisturizing as I usually don't have much time in the shower to do an emulsified scrub thing or time after a shower to do a whole lotion thing. I try to incorporate as many moisturizing ingredients as possible and increase the mildness without ruining the lather or foam.

BODY WASH WITH FOAMING OAT AND SMO TAURATE
29% distilled water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% foaming oat surfactant
10% SMO taurate
10% chamomile hydrosol
10% witch hazel
5% glycerin
5% PEG-7 olivate
3% yerba santa glycoprotein
3% lupine amino acids
2% quaternized soy
2% panthenol
2% fragrance or essential oil (I used Sweet Meyer Lemon! Yum!)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Use the general surfactant blend instructions. If you want this to be thicker, add 1% liquid Crothix when all the ingredients have been added. Mix and test viscosity. Add another 1% at a time up to 5% to increase viscosity. This recipe required 3% liquid Crothix to thicken to my satisfaction.

I really liked this body wash! Only one problem: The foam wasn't great. I used a pouffy scrubby thing in the shower, and it wasn't lathery and bubbly as I normally like. It was, however, moisturizing and non-drying on my skin., so I can overlook the lack of extreme foaminess. I attribute the skin feel to the mild surfactants and the extra moisturizers in the form of PEG 7-olivate, glycerin, yerba santa glycoprotein, quaternized soy, lupine amino acids, and panthenol.

I chose SMO taurate as a surfactant because it is gentle and suitable for dry skin. I have oily skin, but this time of year, I end up having really dry patches because I don't tend to wear anything with long sleeves or pants in the winter snow and rain. (I'm a very warm person. Us Vikings were designed for the snow and cold!)  If you don't have this surfactant, check out the surfactant chart to see a few things you could use instead.

And you can substitute other ingredients for the ones I've used. For the PEG-7 olivate, you can use any water soluble oil you might have, like water soluble shea. For the quaternized soy, any of the cationic polymers will do nicely. For the lupine amino acids, any hydrolyzed protein would be a great addition. I don't know what you'd substitute for the yerba santa glycoprotein as it's kind of a unique ingredient, but aloe vera would be very nice.

You can make this recipe with so many variations, it would take me years to go over them, so I'm going to suggest doing a search for "body wash" to see all the versions I've made over the years or check out the surfactant based products, not including shampoo section of the blog!

As an aside, did you notice the colour difference between the two photos? The first was taken the day I made it, the second about two weeks later. The Sweet Meyer Lemon fragrance oil made it more orange. I like it! But it is something to consider, how your fragrance or essential oils will colour your products. This is one of the reasons we say it takes time to know how a product will morph after making it! 

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating!

4 comments:

B from Brussels, Belgium said...

Very interesting post! I'm always looking for this type of product. One question on using Crothix as a thickener: does it also thicken if a small dose of Coco Caprylat is added to the recipe?

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan! Great recipe as always! Been recently addicted to making body wash for myself. I have to say I've been reading your blog for about 2 yrs now. I have a question, I've been wanting to create a creamy body wash consistency, and saw other products having stearic acid on their label. Would 3% seperate in my mix as you mentioned in a diff post that surfactants can emulisfy a little bit of light oils? Would you recommend it? Also I don't have any water soluble oils available to me. I use equal amounts if peg40 instead to my olive oil (3%), but eveytime I add the emulsifier my recipe thins out. Crothix isn't available to me, and I'm not getting my original consitency with salt. Hope you could advise. Thanks!

Best,
Lucy

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Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi B! Do you mean this ingredient - coco captylate/caprate? If so, yes, I don't see an issue with thickening.

Hi Lucy! Thank you for your kind words! The only way to know is to try the 3% stearic acid in the heated water phase of this product and see what happens. Only make a tiny batch - 100 grams to 200 grams - and keep good notes. It's hard to know how oil soluble ingredients will react with different surfactants, so trying this is the only real way to know if it works. Glycol distearate is a great addition - it pearlizes, thickens, and moisturizes - and it's more likely to emulsify well. If you don't have water soluble oils, try using the PEG-40 with an oil and see what happens.

Some surfactants don't thicken with salt. You have to check carefully before using them. Check out the surfactants chart in the surfactants section of the blog to see what thickens with salt.