Monday, December 28, 2015

What products should I make next?

It's a Christmas miracle! After months of horrible back pain, I made it into my workshop! (Thank you to my lovely husband for cleaning it up this morning!) So far I've made a lovely body wash, liquid shampoo, 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner bars, and a few facial cleansers, which is fantastic because I've just about run out of all of those things! (Raymond and I were sharing one conditioner bar!) 

While playing in the workshop, I found I have way too many ingredients, so many lovely things that I need an incentive to use. I have loads of new emulsifiers, actives, and oils just sitting there begging to be part of something lovely. I have a box of surfactants perfect for products for all hair and skin types. I have all kinds of cosmeceuticals waiting to be in a gel, serum, or lotion. But my imagination has run dry! 

I'm asking you, my lovely readers, for ideas for products I could make over the next few months. 

I realize this would be easier if you knew what was in my workshop, but offering a list would take forever! 

I'd rather not duplicate a product, but if you have a link to an example of a product you have in mind with an ingredient list, that would be awesome! If you could be very specific about the product and include the hair or skin type it might work best for, that will make it easier to make a good product. I'm not guaranteeing I'll be able to make the product you suggest - please don't take offense if I don't - but I will do my best to make a dent in the list! 

Let the suggestions begin! 


Lora said...

Tinted moisturizer or CC cream? Pretty please? Hmm, with any emulsifier you like I guess, a few cosmeceuticals like niacinamide and also hydrolyzed proteins and ummm I love apricot oil personally?

Anonymous said...

Can you please make a cleansing conditioner bar? I was intrigued by LUSH's Avocado Co-Wash
Here's the inspiration:


Margi said...

I was in my workshop over the weekend thinking the same thing ! I have too many ingredients and half of them I forgot why I bought them. I need a 12 step program, honestly. Anyways, I noticed this new product ( at least it's new to me ) that I thought was interesting. It's a wet skin lotion. I know we can just put an oil on our skin when it's wet and achieve the same results, but this product used a very small amount of coconut oil. The bulk of it looks like esters. All the reviews were really good. People seemed to prefer this one product over others with the same idea. The name brand is Jergens and here's a link: They have different varies. Looks like a nice product for the summer.
Thank you, Susan. Hope you had a great Holiday. Have a wonderful new year !
P.S. Another idea could be makeup foundations. I'd love not to have to buy them anymore !

Kim Vermeiren said...

I'm going with makeup and a moisturizing gel for your face. You made something like it a while back but that was with an ingredient from lotioncrafter (I think). Being in Europe I don't really have access to them so I wonder if it could be done without that ingredient

B from Brussels, Belgium said...

I'm experimenting with 'hydrodispersiongels' (that word probably does not exist in English ;-): it's a way to establish very light facial lotions without using an emulsifier. Instead you use the high speed of your mixing device to disperse low amounts of oils or oil solubles (5-10%) in a gel base (using galacto-arabian, and xanthan and/or HEC. Carbomer gels will probably work too).

Maybe a cool idea to develop a light serum with this technique?

Winnie Stekelenburg said...

A product I absolutely love and am not able to make is: QUICK SLIP Styling Cream from Paul Mitchell. I use it on dry hair to style it and make it less frizzy. It is a lovely styling cream. Link for the ingredients:

Another one I really like is: L'Oreal Professional Serie Expert Volume Expand Masque. Link for the ingredients:

Baby Kat said...

Hi, good to know that you are feeling better. Back pain is so disabling!
I agree with many of the previous posts, it would be lovely to have foundations and primers. I tried to make a serum foundation but I could not figure out which ingredients I should use. Anything make up related is great! I love to play around with colors and textures.
Also, more hair stuff, like hairspray, volumizers, perhaps a mousse. I mean, my flat hair can use all the help available. Although, it doesn't look like it in my profile photo, I really need some fluff in my mane LOL

Katie Ziegler said...

I'm so glad you're able to get back to doing the things that make you happy!

One of my family members recently found out she's pregnant, and she asked me to make her a belly butter. I've combed through your posts, but all I could find was a mention that cocoa butter doesn't prevent stretch marks. All of my research confirms that there are no topical preparations that prevent or mitigate stretch marks (not that I would ever make a medical claim on anything I create anyway).

So now I'm trying to formulate something that will not harm her baby, feels nice and glidy, will not stain her clothes, decreases itching and inflammation, and will generally make her feel like the strong and beautiful person she is. Tall order, no? Any help and guidance would be greatly appreciated!

My preliminary recipe looks like this:
Water phase
10% lavender hydrosol
10% aloe vera
0.5% allantoin
Water qs

Oil phase
4% Lotionpro 165
3% cetyl alcohol
5% Rose hip oil
5% Pumpkin seed oil
5% borage oil
5% Shea butter

Cool down phase
2% panthenol
3% plant keratin
1% vitamin E
3% calendula extract (liquid version)
3% white tea extract (liquid)
2% cucumber extract (liquid)
2% honeyquat
0.5% lavender essential oil
0.5% white willow bark extract
1% phenonip

There are some interesting cosmeceuticals (hydrolyzed pumpkin seedcake, gotu kola extract, Phytomulse chlorella) that claim to help with stretch marks. I may try them just for fun.

Happy almost New Year!

Anonymous said...

How about a facial dual masque like this one :
Could be fun? Glad you're feeling better, Amy

Sara said...

I suffer from back issues as well and am happy to hear you're feeling better!

I am in love with Moroccan Oil Curl Defining Cream. I have naturally fine, wavy hair that, to be honest, is more frizzy than wavy. The interesting thing about this product is that it works for making your waves more defined but it also straightens my hair if I put it in damp and let it air dry. When I do that, it does have a bit of something in it for hold because my hair is slightly cruchy feeling until I brush it out. It's truly the best of both world for me! I have an ingredient list (from an old bottle) in my notes and I'm hoping I wrote them down correctly. Since I have just started formulating lotions (thanks to you!), I'd love to make something like this so I can, once again, tame my chia pet head!

Here are the ingredients:

cetearyl alcohol
polyquaternium 11
glycol stearate
hydrolyzed vegetable protein pg-propyl silanetriol
polyquaternium 72
argania spinoza kernel oil (argan oil)
behentrimonium methosulfate and c10-40
isoalkylamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate and cetyl alcohol
DMDM hydantoin
lactic acid

Thanks for considering!

Unknown said...

I have been looking for a recipe for an emulsified toothpaste. I'm unsure of the preservative and amount of emulsifier as the water content would be minimal. I'm also not planning to use any sudsing or foaming ingredients.

K.Line said...

How about a hair styling product for after washing and conditioning - something light and silicone-based (like Moroccan oil) that would work for fine hair.

TheSoapGallery said...

I'm happy to hear your back is on the mend!
I've scoured your blog and could not see a facial gel which is oil-based only. That's what I'd love to see.

Caroline said...

Hi glad you are feeling better, I came across this recipe for a shower butter by Elham Eghbaliand was very intrigued about it,
Sample Formulation:
• Grated soap 25.0%
• Cocoa butter 58.0%
• Shea butter 5.0%
• Babassu oil 2.0%
• Glyceryl Caprylate 3.0% (a natural coemulsifier
and solubilizer)
• Polyglyceryl-3 Olivate Phosphate 3.0% (a
natural emulsifier)
• Calendula maceration in Jojoba oil 2.0%
• Tocopherol 0.5%
• Fragrance oil 1.5%
I am missing the emulsifiers and having a problem tracing them down, was wondering if there are alternatives, thank you in advance.

Alana said...

Could you do a post on possible duplications for these product(s):!product/prd1/4067227511/antioxidant-intensive-facial!product/prd1/4067227541/honey-%26-propolis-healing-facial

Lil Miz_Sunshine said...

Hi Susan,

I'd love to see a recipe for a cleansing balm, something like Emma Hardie's Moringa Balm, ingredients below. I've had some success with anhydrous balms but would love to recreate this as it emulsifies nicely with water.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Sorbitan Stearate, Palmitic/Stearic Triglycerides, Limonene, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Silica, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Aqua (Water), Lecithin, Linalool, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecyl PCA, Menthyl PCA, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Disodium Phosphate, Citronellol, Citric Acid, Geraniol, Citral



Unknown said...
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Kenzer :) said...

1) I alluded to this in a comment on a previous post earlier, but I would LOVE to see a recipe for a biphasic foundation! I've seen one that I haven't been able to find again that uses NaOH. One from Studio 78 Paris has a separate water and oil phase that shake to uniformity prior to application and separate back out. I've also seen it called "water foundation." If nothing else, it's a fun experiment! I've tried testing by making a high viscosity, strong oat decoration (in hopes of emulsifying with the saponines) in lei of water but it was disappointing. :/ Studio 78's ingredients from

Aqua, persea gratissima oil*, glycerin*, mica, silica, sucrose palmitate, parfum, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, limonene, linalool. may contain: ci 77891, ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499

2) I love corrective color cosmetics... So my other recommendation would be a non-comedogenic mousse texture foundation! I made a huge batch in separate colors for Christmas gifts this Christmas after doing a test batch and everyone loved it, but it's not moussey enough... It's more creamy. I want the velvet softness AND lightness. Mine was anhydrous incorporating stearic acid and I'm waiting on some emulsifier to come in so I can try a tweaking an emulsified body butter :) I'd love to see what your take on this is! I'm ordering BTMS-25 to try it different combos of water, aloe, silicone, oils, and butters. :D

TraceyT said...

Hi Susan,

First I want to thank you for sharing so much of your wisdom. It has been invaluable to me over the last couple of years. I have become more adventuresome and recently started thinking about how to make a moisturizer/primer similar to Charlotte Tilbury's Magic Cream. For many years she mixed her own concoction so I am assuming it's possible to do the same. The ingredients list is:

Water (Aqua), Homosalate , Glyceryl Stearate SE, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Cetyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Steareth-21, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Disodium Edta, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Michelia Alba Leaf Oil, Sodium Lactate, Coco-Glucoside, PEG-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol

i. lecherous said...

Definitely interested in color cosmetics for foundations or bb cremes specifically. I have trouble with the consistency and skin-feel of my end product.. Not looking to dupe or to sell.. I do this as a labor of love and would love some insight on the process using ingredients mere mortals can obtain (standard stuff widely available to those on commercial sites)

Do we wet pigments down first with h2o or non-polar oils? And for that matter, are non-oolar oils strictly limited to esters and hydrocarbons? Just curious if there is a key to understanding which are polar and non-polar?

Hope your back feels better.. Looking forward to reading the forthcoming posts on the subject!

Best regards, ivy in new jersey

Unknown said...

Oh! Oh! Please make this > a lip plumper. Not a peppermint cinnamon lip-burner, but more like a hyaluronic acid or humectant-like lip plumper. Believe it or not, Sally Hansen Peptide Lip Treatment has been quite the miracle product. And is almost impossible to find these days. I bought my local drugstores out of it, and I don't see it anymore. I used it all over y lips, and they stayed more plumped up and, natch, younger looking! I'm desperate to replace it with something! The ingredients list is daunting, looks pretty scary to me:


Maybe you have some ideas?

Chris in Boise

Abby said...

The one thing I haven't been able to find anywhere online is a face mask.I don't mean the mashed banana/lemon/honey type but more like the very thick lotion type filled with actives that a lot of the bigger brands sell (usually in a tube). Most of them make me break out, and the one that doesn't contains phenoxyethanol, which sadly makes my face burn upon application. So I've been brainstorming on how to formulate one myself and your insight would be very much appreciated.

Have you heard of sheet masks by the way? Those will probably be my next experiment:D you can get compressed sheet masks on ebay that expand once you put a serum/toner on it. Maybe it's completely futile, but it definitely gives you that "I'm at the spa" feeling.

I'm glad your back is OK again, by the way. Let's hope it stays that way! I have ongoing neck/shoulder pain and there is nothing more frustrating than being stopped dead in your tracks because of pain:/

Robert Simmons said...

How about a facial lotion for OILY skin that's thin enough to use in a pump bottle which contains:

retinyl palmitate
vitamin E (mixed tocopherols 50%)

Thank you for ALL the time you spend on your blog and your volunteering.

Nancy C said...

I received a sample of Rejuvenique oil intensive by Monat. I have most of the oils on hand and was going to try to make it. The sample is wonderful for my curly frizzy dry aging hair. Here are the ingredients in the order in which they are listed. I am assuming the oils are listed in order of amount used and that the total EOs used is 1 - 2%.

Ingredients (all oils): Meadowfoam, Abyssinian, Camellia, Tomato Seed, Carrot seed, Lemon peel EO, Lime EO, Bergomot EO, Buriti palm, Baobab, Monoi de Tahiti Oil (actually states coconut oil then gardenia flower extract), Moringa oil, Pequi oil, and Sunflower.

What percentages would you use of each oil? Thanks

Anonymous said...

How about BEER?. It has een said that hops and beer are wonderful for hair care. How about a shampoo with beer?

Leslie said...

How about 10 ways to use sodium laureth sulfate? I bought a gallon of the stuff and now really don't use it in anything.

Lisa said...

Hello- I'm mad crazy for all things unscented and cannot rave enough about the Weleda White Mallow Face Cream
water, coconut oil, sesame oil, glycerin, alcohol, sweet almond, beeswax, cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate se, borage oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil unsaponifiables, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, white mallow root extract, viola tricolor extract (pansy), xanthum gum, lactic acid, glyceryl caprylate. I'd personally like to master this as its something that I will use forever its that great (for me).
Thank you for your consideration.

Tara said...

Korean skin care has been increase in popularity in the US for the past year. Overnight masks, emulsion, serum...etc. are not yet explored in your blog. There is also some interest in diy in this field. I made shark sauce and it worked very well. More cosmeceuticals!

Srjnm said...

BB cream, CC cream, and/or foundation would be great!

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan! I have extremely dry skin and lips. I find anhydrous lip balms almost make my lips worse over time. Can you put together a great lip cream? Something that doesn't taste weird and is full of safe ingredients around the lips?

Thanks so much,
Jen from Airdrie, AB

Anahit said...

Happy New Year, Susan - glad you are well enough to start formulating again!
I would be very interested in Color Corrective, non-comedogenic creams (CC - creams). Also, micelar waters seem to gain popularity nowadays. I would love to see a simple recipe of such concoction, preferably using hydrosols.

Anonymous said...

Hello Susan and glad to see u getting better.

my suggestions are:
1-emulsified mud mask.
2- semi-perminant hair dyes like special effects, manic panic..ect
3- mascara

And thank u for much!!

Sara Murad

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

I'm so glad to hear you're feeling better!

There are already loads and loads of ideas in here, but in case you'd like some more: how about a skincare product that combines Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Ferulic acid?

You've posted about vitamin C on your blog before (like here), but you've never really formulated with it, as far as I can see. L-ascorbic acid is pretty cool for anti-aging and you said (here) it can be stabilized by using ferulic acid, and quoted a study that said that the combo of vit C, E and ferulic acid gives "protection against oxidative stress in skin and should be useful for protection against photoaging and skin cancer". I'd say that's pretty cool! And I'd love to see what you do with it and how you combine it with other ingredients :)

Whatever you choose to make, I just want to say how grateful I am for all the time and effort you put into writing your articles. I'm only starting out with formulating, and all your posts are just so incredibly informative and interesting. Thank you so much!



Amanda Dvorak said...

Anything to help with psoriasis or bad eczema!! Either body butter, lotion bar or even body wash. My sister bad psoriasis all over , even her face and ears and would love to help her feel more comfortable!!!!! I consider myself mid-level experience (been firmulating for 4 years). PRETTY PLEASE help me help her! Love this site!

Unknown said...
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Tawakana said...

I don't know if you interested but find this product quite unique. It is a conditioning masque with both clay and black soap. I am not even sure how its done , I know you said no duplication . But it'd be cool to know your thoughts on it

Shea Moisture's African Black Soap Purification Masque

Deionized Water, Cocos Nucifera(Coconut) Oil*, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Mangifera Indica(Mango)Seed Butter*, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil , African Black Soap Extract, Sea Salt, Cetyl Esters, Kaolin Clay, Grapeseed Oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed (Jojoba) Oil, Behentrimonium Chloride (Conditioner), Salicylic Acid, Salix Alba (Willow)Bark Extract, Melia Azadirachta (Neem) Seed Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Sorbitol Esters, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Rosemary Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Extract, Plantain Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Nurse Mi'el said...

My Request (it's so much easier for you if I just start off with the basic idea and ramble later):

More of...

-and perhaps a new series-

Is that brief enough, yet clear? Cause the following is a lengthy argument supporting my request, withh examples... so here's where you'd stop if you're going for maximum ideas in minimal time. :)

I'm just starting out, and today alone I've added approximately $250 of ingredients to my cart. And that's just from one supplier who can produce maybe 5/8ths of what I need to have a full 'kit'? And my kit is only aimed at facial stuff and maybe a body butter!

If I knew I could buy a larger amount of stearic acid, Germall Plus (that I know I'm getting), etc. and it'd get used, that'd be great. I believe you said canola...safflower...sunflower? Some oil is one of your favorites, yes? For the more budget-conscious reader, maybe they'd [read 'I'd'] stock up on that as I'm taking most of my advice from content written by you, and in this case, most oils are interchangeable.

Related: A shopping list that details the options you'd have if you had x, y, z^43 ingredients handy. Maybe a short list for facial and body lotions, another for heavier creams and possibly mix that with basic butters? I'm not the one with the good ideas, you are.

I just know I want polysorbate, and I want it now. Hah. But I can get 60 really cheap, 20 from one supplier, or 20 and 80 for a little more from a third supplier if it'd be worth my while. But I have no idea. That's like... that's a tier or two above where I'm at, and I've been taking a lott of notes. Three tiers, at least.*

Okay, I've been here all day (like, going on my 16th consecutive hour, all day) and previous days (though not to this extreme).

Anyway, it's all a roundabout way of admitting that I'm up against some seriously well-researched, as well as practical and thus, reasonable requests.

That said, I hoope you get a chance to skim my comment because I think I have a few suggestions that could make many readers happy/fulfill multiple requests in one way or another. As your 1242nd YouTube subscriber.. scratch that, I'm just excited you have a channel now and I can put a name to a face. Final request: more videos, please!

And thankk youu, as always.

Nurse Mi'el

Olga Kagan said...

Hi Susan,
glad you fell better now and can get to your lab.
my name is Olga, i'm making some cosmetic staff for my family and if I need an information about ingredients I know exactly where to find it, thank you so much to being so generous.
Have you ever try to make an emulsion without emulsifier, using only emulsifying properties of ingredients? I read a lot about it and in some skin problem cases it recommended. This winter I used a body/hand lotion without emulsifier and found out my hands with no cracks.
here is my recipe:
rice bran oil 10%
almond oil 10%
lanolin alcohol 4%
lanolin 2%
lecithin organic 2%
beeswax 1%
xanthan gum 0.2%
NaCl 1%
Urea 2%
Glycerol 3%
Lactic acid 0.2%

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Olga, you are using quite a few emulsifiers in there, like lanolin and lecithin. Xanthan gum will help support the emulsifiers you're using. I'm so glad you found something you like.

As for me, no, this isn't something I would make. I have so many lovely emulsifiers, I would rather use those than using lecihin or lanolin as I'm not the biggest fan of their skin feel in lotions.