Monday, December 7, 2015
Designing your products as a line: Shampoo recipe for dry hair
Let's say you want to make a shampoo for someone with dry hair who will be using an intense conditioner afterwards. You don't necessarily need to use a cationic polymer, but it would make one's hair feel nicer in between shampoo and conditioning, so I'm suggesting it. Glycerin is a great moisturizer, so let's include that. I'm thinking we can leave out the panthenol because we'll use it in a conditioner, and and I'll leave out the protein. I think I'll include some chamomile extract to help with transepidermal water loss on the scalp in the cool down phase.
conditioning shampoo for dry hair recipe I've made in the past. If you don't have the glycol distearate, leave it out and thicken with Crothix. If you scroll down in that post, you'll see a recipe there for moisturizing using water soluble oils that doesn't use the glycol distearate. The big difference between that recipe and this one are the changes I noted above.
CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH GLYCOL DISTEARATE
62.5% distilled water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% SMC taurate or decyl glucoside (or a combination your hair likes)
2% glycol distearate
COOL DOWN PHASE
3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils
(up to 2% Crothix - when cooled down - optional)
Heat the heated phase to 65˚C and mix together well until the glycol distearate is incorporated. (I have found that heating the glycol distearate in one container, the other ingredients in another until the glycol distearate has melted, then incorporating the two containers works well). Make sure you are not seeing any little shards of glycol distearate in the mix.
When the mixture has cooled to 45C or lower, add the cool down ingredients.
You may need to include up to 2% Crothix if you are using fragrance oils that include vanilla or other surfactant thinning fragrances. Add this when the product has cooled completely and can sit for at least 24 hours (preferably longer).
Not a huge difference between the original recipe and this one, except I've left out the aloe vera, protein, dimethicone, and panthenol. We're relying upon our glycol distearate to be both a moisturizing and a thickener in this product. If you don't use the glycol distearate, it is a very thin product. If you don't want to thicken it with Crothix, then put it in a pump bottle and use it that way. I'm not joking; this product is like water!
It's easy to modify any of the recipes you're currently using with the ideas of making a line in mind. Remove what you want, and increase the water by that percentage. Leaving out 2% dimethicone, add 2% to your distilled water amount. Removing 3% protein? Add 3% to the water amount.
How do I modify the recipe when I add or substract an ingredient?
Other posts in this series:
Shampoo - How does it work?
Shampoo - What's in it? Surfactants
Shampoo - What's in it? Other ingredients
Shampoo - Increasing mildness & viscosity
Shampoo - Conditioning agents
Shampoo - Dimethicone
Shampoo - Proteins and amino acids
Shampoo - Thickeners
Shampoo - Panthenol and other humectants
Shampoo - Extracts
Join me tomorrow where we take a look at modifying an oily hair shampoo!