Sunday, October 4, 2015

Weekend Wonderings: Can we use castille soap in face cleansers? How can I make an oil only product feel less greasy?

Wow, I can't believe it's been over a month since I trashed my back! (To be specific, it's my piriformis, hip flexor, and gluteus medius muscles that started off in spasm, and it's moving across my back and up into my mid-back. Yep, it's a big spasm party!) It still hurts to sit up for long periods of time, so when I come home from work, I crash on the couch until bedtime. I'm not feeling very creative right now, which is why there have been so few posts. (I'm so grateful that the new Animal Crossing: Happy Home Designer came out or I'd have been more bored than I am!)

Thank you so much for your kind thoughts. It is getting better every day, but it's taking more time than I would like. And thank you for your patience with regards to answering your comments and messages. I'm working my way through them slowly, but I'll get there in time.

In this post, Facial scrub: Creating a surfactant based scrub, a couple of people asked if they could use castille soap in this cleanser recipe. Sure, why not?

I don't use liquid soap in my recipes for two main reasons - the first being that I don't make soap, so I don't have any in the house, and the second being that the pH of soap is higher than our surfactant mixes, and I find my skin simply doesn't like alkaline ingredients.

Cold processed and liquid soap have a pH over 8, which makes them alkaline. Our skin has a pH of 4.5 to 5.9, so it's suggested we use products that are around that pH. (If you're interested in learning more about this, I encourage you to check out this post!)

As an aside, you cannot reduce the pH of your soap down to an acidic pH as it will stop being soap by the time it gets into the 7 range. (Click this post for more information...) If you can, you should partake in Dr Dunn's soapmaking challenge! (Click here for more information...) As an aside, as of today, only one person has submitted soap to this challenge. I'm eager to see what the results of that analysis will be! 

This is not to say I don't like handmade soap! I love the stuff, but my facial skin is simply too sensitive to use it on a regular basis.

Related posts:
pH and the acid mantle
pH and our skin
pH and skin care products

A thought for the day: If you make an oil based product like a whipped butter, lotion bar, balm, and so on, it will feel greasy. There is no getting around that as you are making a product in which all the ingredients would be described as greasy! You can try to reduce the feeling by using less greasy feeling ingredients like mango butter, babassu oil, hazelnut oil, and so on, and you can try using esters like IPM, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, and such, but the end product will be greasier than any product made with water.

If you really hate the feeling of that product, consider making a lotion instead with all those lovely oils!

Related posts:
Emollients section of the blog
Men's section of the blog - contains tons of information on making a drier feeling product

In this post, Facial scrubs: Emulsified scrubs, Melissa asks: I'm wondering why the e-wax in the sugar scrub is 10%. Isn't it normally around 2-4%? I made this recipe (minus cetyl alcohol) and it turned out great so thanks very much.

I used 10% emulsifier in this product because that's the amount that worked best after all my experiments. I found that more removed too much oil, and less didn't remove enough.

Using 2% to 4% would be appropriate for the oil phase of a product like a lotion with both a water and oil phase, but this product is all oil phase, and the emulsifier is there to turn the product into a quick lotion before rinse off.

Well, that's it for today! Join me tomorrow to read more comments!


Tiffany Duldulao said...

(I know this has nothing to do with your post, sorry.)
I'm crazy confused how cationic quats can be used with anionic surfactants. I read an article about it in Cosmetics&Toiletries and would ask if you could make it more plainer/explain in lay terms, how these opposing forces can co-exist together? Thanks.

Link to article/pdf:

Erika said...

I add Arrowroot Powder to my body butters to help them feel less greasy, and someone dyer, fast absorbing oils such as apricot kernel and mango butter with shea and other oils. by playing around with the ratios I've been able to come up with a butter which soaks in quickly and leaves you feeling super smooth without the net to create lotion. Keep experimenting, my friends! Susan's posts describing all the different oils helped me a great deal.

Feel better Susan!

Jodi H said...

So sorry you are having muscle spasm issues. I have similar issues and, boy, can they be painful and debilitating! Praying for complete healing for you. Thanks again for your interesting & informative blog!