Sunday, August 16, 2015

Weekend Wonderings: Adding Vitamin C to a product

In this post, A few thoughts for a lazy Saturday, Fuchia asks: A bit off topic but I'm curious about making a Vitamin C cream. I have a face cream recipe I make now and love (it does not contain Vitamin C but uses Optiphen Plus as a preservative) and keep reading online that you can just add a small amount of L Asorbic acid to it and it will keep for a few weeks. Why can't it keep for longer then that (ie 6 months to a year) and is there another step involved in making Vitamin C cream or is it that easy?

(From this post on Vitamin C.) It isn't easy to add Vitamin C to a product.  Because it's really unstable in water and it doesn't easily penetrate our skin. Plus pH 3 is really acidic and that's not a great pH for our lotions or serums to be. And it degrades easily when exposed to oxygen.

So let's say you want to use Vitamin C in your creations. Is it possible? It is. The ideal product would be a non-ionic anhydrous product or emulsion in an air tight container (so a lotion or serum not including any cationic ingredients - like BTMS or cationic polymers -  or anionic ingredients - like our bubbly surfactants - is right out). You can use it with silicones or oils as an anhydrous creation. But Vitamin C is water soluble, so how the heck would we get it into a creation with little to no water?

You can use an ester like ascorbyl palmitate in a serum or lotion as your source of Vitamin C, for instance. You can use the water soluble Vitamin C in an emulsion, but you will see some degradation of the ingredient, so don't choose a pump bottle but something like a malibu/tottle or disc cap to keep it less exposed to the air. (As I note, I found tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate at Lotioncrafter's site. This is another ester with Vitamin C and very stable. I also found VitaC Stable at the Herbarie, which is Vitamin C with a phosphate added for stability. Or MAP at the Formulator Sample Shop.)

Or you could dissolve it in water and create an emulsion, although this will be less effective than using the ester. And it can oxidize quickly, making your products an orange/brown colour (that's when you know it's oxidized!), which isn't great. So it's looking like using one of the esters is the best choice.


Anonymous said...

Thank you so much Susan !

I have been researching for months now about how to use vitamin C in my formulations,
From what I've read, L-Ascorbic Acid gives best results for skin lightening, but like u said it's hard
To formulate with as it's very unstable..I think I will try in a silicone base.

I got so excited about ascorbyl palmitate after reading " the wrinkle cure" by Dr Perricone ..he mentions that
Ascorbyl Palmitate being lipophilic enters the cell membrane and is better for antiaging and reversing
Sun damage.. But then I read somewhere on the dish something about toxicity concerns so I am a little confused now.

I bought both and I think I need to research more before I decide what to do with them
Did u try both? Is Ascorbyl Palmitate stable for a long time? Is it also light sensitive?

Thank u so much for ur lovely blog, You are sooo AMAZING!!

Sara M

Anonymous said...

Well if vitamin C does not penetrate the skin what is the benefit of it?

Nicholls said...

Hi Susan,

I would very much like to hear your comment about the [url=]Pascaud vit C (79%) serum[/url].

The vit C balls are made with:
The activator is made with:
lactobacillus ferment

Looks to me we can make this ourself, just make it fresh every evening before you go to bed.
Only thing that bothers me is making the recipe.
Pacauld explains that they use 79% L-ascorbine acid, but at the end it only contains 8,5% in the amount you make fresh to put on you face.
This information comes from a Dutch BeautyJournal [url=]site[/url], they asked Pascaud to explain how 79& could do no dammige. The site is in Dutch but with Google or Bing translator you should be able to read the text.

Thanks and cant whait to read your comment on this product.
Tania Nicholls.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Rosi! I've answered your question as today's Weekend Wondering. The short answer is that Vitamin C doesn't need to penetrate the skin to be awesome!