Tuesday, July 28, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble shea butter

As I mentioned in yesterday's post, I like water soluble olive oil! It gives me a chance to add some moisturizing to products that normally wouldn't contain oils, like body washes or toners. Today's favourite ingredient is similar to yesterday's - water soluble shea butter (INCI: PEG-50 shea butter). Like the water soluble olive oil we met yesterday, water soluble shea butter is an esterified oil that has been modified to make it more hydrophilic or water loving. We can use it in many different products from body washes to shampoos, toners to facial cleansers, and we can do it without using an emulsifier to make sure the oil stays in the formulation.

25% SMC taurate or other really gentle surfactant
15% Amphosol CG
12% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
18% water
10% aloe vera
up to 5% glycerin
3% hydrolyzed proteins of choice
5% water soluble shea butter

5% honeyquat or condition-eze 7
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative

5% Crothix
2 to 4% 60/100 jojoba beads

Mix together all the ingredients in the heated water phase. Heat to 70˚C and hold for 20 minutes. When the mixture is at 45˚C, add the cool down phase. Let cool to room temperature, then add Crothix at 1% at a time, mixing after every addition, to ensure the product is thickened to your liking. Add the jojoba beads - or other exfoliating ingredient - and mix well. Bottle, then rejoice! 

You can substitute water soluble shea for any of the recipes from yesterday's post or you can substitute any of the recipes from today with water soluble olive oil.

Related recipes:
Gelled after shave with minimally processed ingredients
Cucumber extract in an apres shaving spray
Maxed out toner for dry skin
Creamy exfoliating facial cleanser for dry skin
Formulating a body wash for dry skin
Low surfactant cleanser with oat surfactant
Extra hydrating body wash
Modifying the body wash with esters
Japanese themed body wash with esters


Maria said...

Unrelated to the post, but a question--what products, other than silicone can add shine to hair? I use silicones in both my shampoos and conditioners, but I'm wondering if there is something else I can add that would up the shine a notch or are silicones simply the best there is?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Maria. Silicones are the best at adding shine to your hair. What are considered dimethicone substitutes are also good, like broccoli oil and bamboo isoflavones. You can also try using some oils. But dimethicone is considered the best choice!

Maria said...

Thank you! I have it in my shampoo, but mine is kind of a shampoo conditioner. So I think most of it rinses out. I've tried both 1000 and 350 in the shampoo and they are about the same. I think tomorrow I'll try a conditioner with silicone and see if that helps.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Why not try a shine spray? There's one in tomorrow's post!

Matthew said...

Hi Susan! I was wondering if WS Shea Butter would cloud an otherwise clear product. I was thinking of purchasing some to try in a clear liquid potassium soap, but I'm not sure what to expect--if it would even be compatible. Any thoughts?

Dianne Bowler said...

Hi Susan, thank you so much for your wonderful knowledge and advice. I am trying to formulate a gentle exfoliating cleanser for my daughter who has redness in her skin and is very sensitive. I notice use use Aloe Vera and I am wondering if this is the gel, extract or juice?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Matthew. Sorry for not seeing your comment earlier! Yes, it can. My recipes with ACI aren't cloudy, but I can't guarantee that for any other recipe.

Hi Dianne. It is the liquid extract.