Friday, July 24, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Chamomile extract

I love love love chamomile extract! You can find it in a few different versions - essential oil, water soluble powdered extract, and hydrosol. I prefer the powdered extract and hydrosol as I can't really stand the smell of the stuff. I think it smells a bit earthy and musty, which is something I just can't tolerate in my products. As the powder is less expensive than the hydrosol, I tend to go with it, unless there's a place where I'm worried about colouring. It can make a lotion go a bit beige at 0.5% in the cool down phase.

Why do I like chamomile so much? It's a great anti-inflammatory (an anti-phlogistic, meaning it reduces inflammation and fever), as well as being a good anti-oxidant, anti-spasmodic, and wound healer. I've seen claims it might ameliorate the look of UV damaged skin and reduce stinging and irritation. And it can reduce transepidermal water loss for up to 48 hours, which means it's a fantastic addition to any product for all skin types!

You can use water soluble powdered chamomile extract in any product that contains water soluble ingredients. It's a great addition to a toner, lotion, cleanser, body wash, and so on.

This is my favourite body wash recipe, but it's a bit complicated, so let's see if we can make something with fewer ingredients that's just as awesome as this one!

As it's getting harder to get ACI and I can't access polyglucose/lactylate blend any more, I'll have to find two gentle and moisturizing surfactant blends in their place. I think I'll choose SMC or SMO taurate to replace the ACI as it's a nice mild blend with good foam and lather. I'll use that at 10% in the heated water phase.

As a note, I could use solid SCI in its place as it has all those great qualities I love in ACI, but it's a pain to melt. When I have offered recipes with SCI in a body wash in the past, people have complained that they didn't get the same results at home, and I would hate to offer you a recipe that won't work for everyone, so I'm not using SCI here. If you wish to use it, use it at up to 10%, heat it with the other surfactants before adding the water, and be careful what thickeners you add to the mix as it will thicken things up nicely! 

I think I'll use BSB in place of the polyglucose/lactylate blend. BSB is a blend I get from Voyageur Soap & Candle that contains a lot of different ingredients. BSB stands for "baby safe blend", so you can use any baby blend you find at your local supplier's shop. If you can't find it, use any surfactant you have in your workshop!

I like to have a cationic polymer like polyquat 7 or honeyquat in my body washes to film form and moisturize. If you don't have this, leave it out and add 3% to the distilled water amount. I also like to have a hydrolyzed protein of some sort in my product to add extra film forming and moisturizing. I'm going to use hydrolyzed oat protein in this recipe, but you could use any other one you like here.  And I have to have some kind of humectant in the product. Glycerin is always my first choice for a body wash. It not only offers moisturizing to your skin, but it makes your foam and lather more fluffy! It's a two-for-one kind of ingredient!

You can add a water soluble oil to this body wash at up to 10% in the heated water phase. If you do this, remove 10% from the water phase to have the recipe balance out!

HYDRATING BODY WASH WITH CHAMOMILE EXTRACT AND HYDROSOL
HEATED WATER PHASE
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% SMC or SMO taurate
20% BSB
21.5% distilled water
14% aloe vera
11% chamomile hydrosol
5% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein of some sort
3% polyquat 7

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
2% panthenol (liquid)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil (white chocolate - yum!)
(additional) up to 5% liquid Crothix

Combine all the surfacants into a container and mix well. Then add the rest of the ingredients and mix well, taking care not to create too many bubbles. Let come to room temperature and check the viscosity. If it isn't thick enough, add 1% Crothix. Mix well. Add another 1% Crothix at a time and mix after each inclusion up to 5% Crothix.

Related recipes:
Dry skin body lotion with chamomile extract and hydrosol
Six ingredient body butter - evening primrose, oats, and chamomile body butter
Modifying the six ingredient body butter with chamomile and evening primrose
Six ingredient lotion - evening primrose, oats, and chamomile lotion
Modified shaving lotion
Facial cleanser with a ton of extracts
Modifying the low surfactant cleanser
Formulating a body wash for dry skin
After shave gel
Cucumber extract in an apres shaving toner
Under eye gel
Facial moisturizer with chamomile extract

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