Tuesday, July 21, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Foaming proteins

I've been experimenting with foaming protein surfactants over the last two years, and I still can't figure out which one is my favourite! I started with foaming silk surfactant (also click here), then foaming oat surfactant, then foaming rice surfactant, and recently foaming soy protein surfactant. These surfactants are foamy and lathery cleaning ingredients we can use in our cleansers, body washes, shampoos, or other thing intended to remove dirt and oil. They are very mild cleansers that are great for sensitive and dry skin, but you can use them for any skin type. Some of them are positively charged - like the soy - meaning they will be substantive or leave a light film on your skin or hair after rinsing.

I'm currently experimenting with these surfactants in micellar waters, and they are nice at lower levels of usage.

39% distilled water
20% chamomile hydrosol
15% witch hazel
10% foaming soy surfactant
5% cocamidopropyl betaine

5% honey matte
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
0.5% liquid Germall plus

Combine the heated phase in a heat proof container, like a Pyrex jug, and put into a double boiler and heat until it reaches 70˚C. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Remove from the heat and replace the water that might have evaporated. Mix and allow to cool to 45˚C before adding the cool down phase. Add the cool down phase, mix well, then let cool to room temperature before bottling in a foamer bottle. This is very thin, so you really do need a foamer bottle for it. If you want to try thickening it with something like Crothix, you may thicken it slightly, but it will still be a very watery product because I don't have a lot of surfactants in it.

I'm not kidding when I say a 100 ml batch lasts me a few months. I made the last batch in October and just ran out! Only make a small batch of this - 100 grams - at a time!

Recipes with foaming proteins...
Creating a foaming rice protein cleanser
Creating a low surfactant facial cleanser
Modifying the cleanser with foaming oat protein
Another foaming silk cleanser recipe
Creating a foaming soy cleanser


Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

These foaming proteins sound really nice! After using 4 different foaming proteins (soy, silk, oat and rice) what are the main differences in terms of skin feel that you observe? Would you recommend a specific one for dry/sensitive skin or do you think they behave very similarly?

Thank you so much for all the great info you provide for us homecrafters!



Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

If I had to pick, I would go with soy. I'm really enjoying it at the moment. It feels like my skin is more moisturized after using it. But honestly, I liked all of them. I think all of them are suitable for sensitive skin as they are very gentle surfactants. If you're worried about cost, I get the foaming silk from Lotioncrafter for about half of the price.