niacinamide more and more in my products lately. It's not just for facial products for me; I'm finding use for it in body butters as well!
The claims for niacinamide are pretty substantial and they are backed up by studies and good science. Studies have shown that 2% in a facial moisturizer can increase skin's keratin, ceramides, and barrier lipids which results in a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and an increase in collagen synthesis. 2% can result in a 23% reduction in sebum production and pore diameter. It can reduce hyperpigmentation of age and sun spots. And it can reduce the damage from environmental causes, which reduces the irritation, inflammation, and skin redness from things like the sun, cold, or weather as well as application of straight SLS. Even at 5%, there's a lack of irritation and redness on our faces ('cause sometimes niacin can make our skin flush, but not at 2% or 5%). It can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and decreases skin blotchiness and "pebbling" or roughness on facial skin. It also behaves as an anti-inflammatory and enhances skin's barrier functions.
It is a water soluble, heat tolerant ingredient, so I've been using it in the heated water phase of my products. I really like it in toners and facial moisturizers, as well as body lotion products. It's an inexpensive ingredient that goes a very long way! (I'm loving this body wash I made with it a while ago, too!)
CUCUMBER TONER WITH LIQUID EXTRACT (from this post)
HEATED WATER PHASE
73.5% distilled water
10% peppermint hydrosol
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
COOL DOWN PHASE
5% liquid cucumber extract
2% MoisturPlex Advanced
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
Heat the distilled water, peppermint hydrosol, calendula extract, and niacinamide to 70˚C and hold for 20 minutes. We'll want to compensate for condensation as we heated the heated phase, so measure all the ingredients and container before you heat it, and measure it when you remove it from the heat. Add enough water to get back to the original weight. Let this cool down to 45˚C. The add the cool down phase and mix well. Cool down to room temperature, then pour into a bottle for use. I like to use a spray bottle or mister so I can spray it on my face, but feel free to use any clean and unused bottle with any kind of cap.
Products that contain niacinamide...
Making a water-in-silicone serum
Creating a body butter for colder, drier months