Wednesday, July 15, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Allantoin

Games of Thrones and tiny blonde puppies; symphonic, heavy, and power metal; lotions that stay emulsified and clean, these are a few of my favourite things! 

Someone asked me to share my favourite ingredients and why, so join me over the next few days for a few things I can't live without and some recipes highlighting them!

Allantoin. I love this powder so much. It offers so much for such a tiny amount, and it's inexpensive. It's a fantastic skin protectant that softens skin (it's a keratolytic, meaning it causes the keratin to soften), causes rapid cell regeneration and proliferation, and is approved by the FDA to temporarily prevent and protect chafed, chapped, cracked, or windburned skin by speeding up the natural processes of the skin and increasing the water content.

How to use it? It is a water soluble ingredient that does well in the heated water phase of your product. (I know some people swear by using it in the cool down phase, but I've found that using it in the heated phase works very well!) It's used in skin care products - there's no point to using it in hair care products as it offers no benefits there, except maybe for the scalp.

I use it in lotions, moisturizers, toners, cleansers, and anything where I need some kind of skin protecting. I especially like it in this hand protectant lotion! I like it in mineral make-up as well, like in this finishing powder.

FINISHING POWDER (by volume, not weight)
3 tbsp treated serecite mica
1 tsp micronospheres (optional)
1/5 tsp or 6 scoops calcium carbonate or kaolin clay (for oil control, optional)
1/5 tsp or 6 scoops powdered silk (optional, but very nice)
2 scoops allantoin (up to 3 scoops)

Mix together well. Put in an appropriate container.

Yes, I know I go on and on about using weighted measurements for things, but these things are so light, they don't weigh well even on my tiny scale. To learn more about weighted measurements, click here for that post in the FAQ

Here are a few recipes for products that contain allantoin. I suggest doing a search for allantoin on the blog as there are so many recipes in which I've used this ingredient, it's easier to do a search for the specific product that interests you.

Body butter becomes foot cream
Body lotion for my mom with Ritamulse SCG
Moisturizer with Ritamulse SCG
After shave lotion
Toner for acne prone skin


melian1 said...

i just posted this comment on the allantoin post from 2009, but since this was yesterday, i thought i should to post it here so current readers can see the information also. susan, if this is wrong, please delete whichever one that i shouldn't have posted.

This pdf is filled with interesting stuff on allantoin. But on page 9, it says this:

“allantoin may be heated at 80C (176F) for one hour without showing any change” and mentions that it won’t dissolve under 50C (122F). the solubility is drastically affected by temperature, which is why, i think, that getting it to dissolve at lower temperatures is such an issue.

“Strong alkaline solutions (>8pH) cause the decomposition of allantoin”

It also says anhydrous won’t work with allantoin because it needs to have been dissolved in water, propylene glycol, glycerol, or a few other things first. There is a table showing all, along with the solubility rate for each.

It also says that the dry powder shelf life is 5 years.

It also tells how to keep greater than .5% stable in emulsions if you wanted to use a higher percentage.

Jodi said...

Hi Susan,

I think Allantoin is terrific too! Although, some home formulators may be using too much, and it can be very irritating at higher levels than 0.5% for some people.

In DSM's product brochure, "Allantoin - An impressive history ..." the recommended usage levels are: 0.05% to 0.30%.

I could not find the PDF on DSM's website but found it here:

Also, in both Lotioncrafters example formulations Allantoin is used at 0.10% (Time Defy Facial Serum) and 0.20% (Soothing & Clarifying Facial Serum).

Hope this helps! Happy Formulating Everyone!