Sunday, July 5, 2015

Some summer tips for our products and ingredients

It's summer 'round these parts, which means it's hot! This affects our products and ingredients in so many ways...

Our lotions take some time to cool down to the final temperature with some thickeners and emulsifiers taking up to 48 hours at room temperature to make it to the final viscosity. In general, we want our lotions to be around 20˚C or 70˚F, and when it's 30˚C in the house, this may take some time to reach. You could put your lotions in the fridge to cool down, but I don't recommend you put anything that contains water into the freezer.

This also applies to conditioners, which are effectively lotions, and things like body wash or shampoo. If you're planning to thicken anything with Crothix, remember to wait until it reaches room temperature!

Remember to hide your coconut oil, virgin coconut oil, and babassu oil in the fridge or freezer as they will melt at 76˚F or 24˚C, temperatures that are easy to attain in this weather. Remember to keep your oils in a cool dark place or in the fridge/freezer as higher temperatures can speed up oxidation, which means a shorter shelf life.

Related post:
Heating, holding, freezing, and thawing our oils

This may not be the weather to make or transport anhydrous whipped butters, balms, or emulsified scrubs. Beware when you put things in your purse or backpack because they could melt - I'm thinking about lip balms and other balms here - and be careful what you leave in your car as it gets hot in there very quickly.

And keep hydrated! It's horrible out there!!!


Leslie said...

Hi Susan,

I have a temperature related question. Can you over heat surfactants making them breakdown into something that is not nice and foamy? I have made your Conditioning Shampoo for dry hair with SCI and Glycol Distearate many times. I have a few substitutions but the final product always has a very nice consistency and foams beautifully. Typically I add 3% Vegemoist, substitute the SMC taurate for either LSB or BSB and substitute some water for a hydrosol. Also, the SCI have is without stearic acid. Yesterday I made a large patch and instead of heating the SCI, Cocamidopropyl betaine, glycol distearate in a water bath, I heated it in the microwave. When is was melted, I added to the rest of the heated phase which was at about 70 C. I did not take the temperature of the SCI mixture before adding it. This was held for 20 minutes. I tested the shampoo this morning and it hardly foamed at all. It also was not very thick. This is the first time I used the micro for melting the SCI therefore I am thinking it might have something to do with the failure. Your thoughts would be very appreciated.
I love your blog! You have taught me so much and I love being able to create these wonderful products.

Thank you, Leslie

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Leslie! Yes, any ingredient can be overheated, which is why we heat and hold. I've never had something heat up so much it wouldn't lather or foam, but I have had things heat up to where they were burned or smelled bad. I have no idea what could have happened in this situation. Sorry I can't be more helpful!

melian1 said...

susan, to test the stability of my cream, i put it thru temperature abuse. i put it into the freezer, took it out and put it on the counter. put it back into the freezer, and the next day again out. i put it into the car and let it get hot (you know how the sun really beats into a car, heating it a lot). i brought it back in and set it on the counter. between each test, i took a bit of the cream and felt it on my skin and examined it closely for any changes. after a couple of trips thru the freezer and the car, i then put it on the bathroom counter and left it there for 2 months. doing this will really tell you about how stable any particular emulsion is.

i don't keep my creams or lotions in the freezer, but after testing them i feel confident that if i did, they would remain perfectly stable.

i've got lotions as old as 6 years - not for use! but to see how they hold up and perform after time. periodically i check them to see if they are still stable emulsions, what the fragrance has done, if there is discoloration, etc. each one is labeled with what batch it was, and i can go back and see what oils i used (if they are smelling still fine, or have gone rancid, etc). well, anyway the freezer thing was what i really wanted to comment on.

Anonymous said...

Great way to test and I am definitely going to try this. thanx Melian1
-Beth D.