check it out here! - but I haven't added to it for a while, and thought it was time to take a look at making a moisturizer for men.
We can generalize about men as much as we can generalize about women, which is to say that we can't. For every man who loves patchouli and musk, there's a guy huffing Clementine cupcake or chocolate. What I have noticed is that guys seem to prefer drier looking and feeling products that don't leave a sheen on the skin, hands, or nails. I go into great detail in this post - and a few posts after it - about how to formulate a drier feeling lotion, which will be the basis for this lotion.
What kind should we make? I wrote about a few products that men might like last week - check out this kukui nut & babassu oil with Ritamulse SCG - so let's make a facial moisturizer!
Incroquat BTMS-50 and Ritamulse SCG. Both will produce a less shiny appearing and less greasy feeling product than those formulated with Polawax or e-wax. Although I've already made a drier feeling lotion with Incroquat BTMS-50 in this post, it really is the best choice for this product. Ritamulse SCG would be lovely, but it'll produce a much thicker product than one with BTMS-50, and my husband doesn't want a "goopy feeling" on his face, which this could have as a thicker product. As well, BTMS-50 is a skin conditioner, which means you will get extra moisturizing and a softer feeling face after using this emulsifier!
If you want to modify this with Polawax or e-wax, just use the 4% in the recipe below. Yes, I know it's higher than the 25% rule, but 2.5% emulsifier leads to an unstable product for this recipe! I don't say ask this of you very often, but please just trust me on this!
The easiest way to keep a lotion feeling less greasy is to choose less greasy feeling oils and esters. As much as I adore soy bean oil, this is not the application for it! For moisturizing one's face, I turn first to the lighter feeling oils like fractionated coconut oil, pomegranate oil, squalane, and so on. For this recipe, I think I'm going to use pomegranate oil because it contains a ton of punicic acid, which has been shown to help regenerate skin cells, offers anti-inflammatory properties, and can help with wind chapped or sun burned skin. It also feels very light and less greasy feeling than some of our other oils.
Seriously, if you haven't tried pomegranate oil yet, I encourage you to do so. It isn't cheap - it's one of the most expensive oils - but it has so much to offer! Just order an ounce or two and try it. I apologize in advance to getting you hooked on it!
If you don't have pomegranate oil, think about using something very light like the few things I've listed above or an ester. Esters are a great choice. I've made a version of this with cetearyl ethylhexanoate that my husband really liked!
panthenol. This ingredient that we can add to the cool down phase of our products has been shown to help with inflammation, increased wound healing, improving skin's barrier repair mechanisms, and reduces redness. I'll use this as my main humectant at 5% in the cool down phase of my product to help with all those issues.
I also have to think about using non-comedogenic ingredients. My husband hates it that he breaks out from using products. Pomegranate oil is listed as a 0 to 1, so that works.
As a note, the comedogenic scale is not the end all and be all for information on whether you'll break out. It's a good starting point, but it's not for sure you will or will not break out. For instance, I break out with any natural oil or butter, while others can take a bath in cocoa butter and shea butter and feel great. You have to keep records about what bothers your skin!
I want him to have an occlusive layer on his skin to protect it from the world, but I don't want to use cocoa butter as it will definitely make him feel like he has goop on his face, and it'll likely make him break out. I'm thinking allantoin here as my occlusive ingredient at 0.5% in the heated water phase. Dimethicone might be a nice choice as well, but I'm thinking allantoin will also act as a moisture binder and skin softener.
Hydrolyzed proteins are a great choice here. I'm thinking I'll use lupine protein because it is drier and silkier feeling (to me) than the other proteins, it offers a reduction in transepidermal water loss, and it can penetrate into our skin. You can use any other protein you have - this is the one I like today!
And finally, I think I'm going to add 15% witch hazel to the mix. This ingredient is both an anti-inflammatory and astringent that has good wound healing effects.
Finally, we'll modify the basic moisturizer recipe with these ingredients to see what we have in the end! (From this post...)
POMEGRANATE & WITCH HAZEL FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR MEN
HEATED WATER PHASE
3% lupine protein
15% witch hazel
HEATED OIL PHASE
10% pomegranate oil
4% Incroquat BTMS-50
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
Use the general lotion making instructions for this product. You could add a fragrance to this at 0.5% in the cool down phase, if you wish. Essential oils would be nice here, too. I don't fragrance my products for the face as neither me nor my husband like it, but you can, if you wish.
How could you modify this? So glad you asked! Join us tomorrow for more fun creating moisturizers!
Men's section of the blog!