Monday, July 13, 2015

Six ingredient lotions: Green tea & bamboo moisturizer

We created a facial moisturizer for men on Friday with pomegranate oil and witch hazel. Could we make a different version of this? Of course - there are literally thousands of different moisturizers we could make!

When it comes to a man's facial products, we want to formulate something moisturizing and hydrating that will help with shaving nicks and razor burn. We want something that is matte looking and less greasy feeling, that isn't too thick, and that won't result in horrible pimples.

What oil should I use today? I think I'll go with hazelnut oil. It's a less greasy, light feeling oil that isn't that expensive and easy to find. It has a high level of Vitamin E, and its high in phytosterols to help with inflammation and irritation. The comedogenicity rating is low - I've seen it at 0, 1, or 2 on different scales - and it is a long lasting oil.

In our recipe yesterday, we used allantoin at 0.5% as a barrier protectant and skin softener. I'll use this again today because I can't really add cocoa butter to the mix to do the same job as it'll leave that goopy feeling my husband hates.

I could add some dimethicone to the mix or bamboo isoflavones (click and scroll down), which offer a lot of the same features but are water soluble. It is added to the cool down phase to products with a pH of 4 to 7, so it is suitable for our lotions, moisturizers, and hair care products. Bamboo isoflavones are water soluble, so you can add this to products like toners or cleansers where you don't want to include an emulsifier, but want the silky smoothness of dimethicone! Substitute it 1:1 for dimethicone. Dimethicone isn't considered an ingredient that will make you break out, so it could be used in this recipe at up to 3% in the cool down phase to replace up to 3% of your oils. I'm using the bamboo isoflavones because I want to keep my 10% oils and use something water soluble instead.

If you add dimethicone, you don't need to alter the emulsifier as we have enough to compensate for added oils. I think you could go as high as 20% oils with Incroquat BTMS-50 before you have to worry about increasing it. 

I really like chamomile extract for soothing, reducing stinging and irritation, and reducing transepidermal water loss. You could use the essential oil, hydrosol, or powdered extract here. I'm going to use the powdered extract at 0.5% in the cool down phase. I don't like to have any fragrance in my facial products, so the essential oil is right out for me, plus it is really really expensive stuff. If you like it, use it!

Green tea extract is a great addition for any product, and I think it'll be great in this product. We could use it in a number of different ways - oil soluble extract, water soluble extract, and powdered green tea extract, to name a few. Green tea extract is a powerful anti-oxidant that might provide wound and burn healing and may protect collagen and elastin.

Here's the thing about green tea extract powder - it can cause what's called a redox reaction in our lotions, which can mess with our emulsions. (Click here for a longer post on the topic...) I like to go with a water or oil soluble version when I'm making lotions so there's no potential for an epic lotion fail! In this product, I only have a tiny oil phase - 10% plus the emulsifier - and I don't want to lose the awesome properties of hazelnut by only using a bit of each, so I'll go with the water soluble version for this product.

As a note, check the suggested usage rate for your liquid green tea extract. The version I have from Lotioncrafter has a usage rate of up to 2%, while Formulator Sample Shop has a usage rate at up to 10%. Please alter this recipe according to the version you have.

74.5% water
0.5% allantoin
5% water soluble green tea extract

10% hazelnut oil
4% Incroquat BTMS-50

0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% bamboo isoflavones
0.5% powdered chamomile extract

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product. If you wish to use chamomile or another essential oil, please add it at 0.5% or less in the cool down phase and remove 0.5% from the water phase.

This recipe isn't just for men! Women can use it as a moisturizer, too.

Join me tomorrow as we modify this six ingredient lotion like crazy!!!


Lisa said...

Hi Susan,
I was curious about adding the green tea extract to the heated phase. Most extracts you tend to add at cool down so I was wondering if there was a difference with this one.
I checked Lotioncrafters website but they don't specify heated or cool down.
Thanks for another great recipe to try. I look forward to your posts everyday!

Thomas Erickson said...

Hi, thanks for creating such an amazing resource. It is so incredibly comprehensive! What amazing generosity of heart. I am very excited to try some of these recipes for myself and my wife.

While reading your latest post, I wondered if the line at the bottom is accurate: use the essential oil up to 0.5% but remove the balance from the water phase. Is that right? Remove from the water phase? If so, how does that work? Is it just because it is such a small volume of oil? Or is there something to essential oils that differs from " bulk" oils?

Thanks again for all of your great work!


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lisa. As I mention in the post, you should check with your supplier for the usage rates of your particular version of green tea extract because they might be heat resistant, like the one I'm using today. There really aren't any rules about using extracts, which is why you should always ask your supplier what they suggest. Most of the powdered ones suggest you use it in the cool down phase, but that doesn't apply to every powdered extract.

Hi Thomas. When we add anything to a product, we remove a percentage from the water phase so the total will be 100% for this recipe. Please check this post for more information on this topic.