Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Six ingredient lotions: Evening primrose, oats & chamomile body butter

What's the difference between a six ingredient body and hand lotion and a six ingredient body butter? Nothing really. Honestly, there isn't a definition for a body butter. It could be something that contains no water or something with loads of water. In general, we think of a body butter as being a thicker body lotion that generally comes in a jar. It doesn't have to, but that's what springs to mind. So that's what we'll make today.

If you're new to this, a six ingredient lotion is one that contains six ingredients not including the water, preservative, and fragrance or essential oil. It helps us get back to the basics when it's so easy to go nuts including every ingredient we have in the workshop!

To turn yesterday's body lotion into a body butter, we need one major change - a butter or a thickener of some type. Since dry skin likes to have occlusive ingredients and cocoa butter is a great occlusive ingredient, it makes sense that this will be the butter we use in this lotion.

You might recall we made a six ingredient rice bran & mango butter body butter last week to which we added both a butter and cetyl alcohol. Since we don't have an ingredient to spare here, let's leave out the cetyl alcohol and do our thickening with the cocoa butter.

We'll include all those great ingredients from yesterday - evening primrose oil, glycerin, protein, chamomile extract, and Polawax - but we'll leave out the dimethicone and use cocoa butter instead.

We'll decrease the amount of oil we're using to 10% and increase the amount of butter we're using to 14% to make sure we get a nice thick product. Since I'm eliminating the 2% dimethicone from the cool down phase, I will remove the 0.5% extra Polawax I had as my oil phase is now 24%.

EVENING PRIMROSE, OATS,  & CHAMOMILE HAND AND BODY LOTION
HEATED WATER PHASE
60.5% water
3% glycerin or other humectant of choice
2% hydrolyzed oat protein

HEATED OIL PHASE
14% cocoa butter
10% evening primrose
6% Polawax

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
0.5% powdered chamomile extract

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product. When you add the powdered chamomile extract, hold a little water back from the heated water phase - say 5 grams or so - to dissolve it before adding.

Could we make this with another emulsifier? Sure! If you want to make this with Ritamulse SCG, using 8% Ritamulse SCG, remove the Polawax, and remove 2% from the water phase to make up for the increase. If you're using Lotionpro 165, use 4% Lotionpro 165, remove the Polawax, and add 2% to the water phase to make up for the decrease in emulsifier. (Please note, this will be a much thinner product if you are using Lotionpro 165.) If you want to use Incroquat BTMS-50, then use about 5% to 6% Incroquat BTMS-50 and remove up to 1% from the water phase.

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating! 

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