Wednesday, July 8, 2015

Modifying the six ingredient evening primrose, oat, and chamomile body butter - water phase

As much as I've been enjoying the six ingredient lotions, let's take a moment to look at how you could modify the lotions to include more ingredients that you love. We'll use yesterday's six ingredient evening primrose, oat, and chamomile body butter as our starting recipe.

EVENING PRIMROSE, OATS,  & CHAMOMILE HAND AND BODY LOTION
HEATED WATER PHASE
60.5% water
3% glycerin or other humectant of choice
2% hydrolyzed oat protein

HEATED OIL PHASE
14% cocoa butter
10% evening primrose
6% Polawax

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
0.5% powdered chamomile extract

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product. When you add the powdered chamomile extract, hold a little water back from the heated water phase - say 5 grams or so - to dissolve it before adding.

What could we add to this recipe and how could we do it?

Whenever we add something to a product, we remove the same amount from the water amount. (For more information, please consult this post, which goes into more detail!) Let's say we want to include 10% aloe vera in this body butter. We would remove 10% from the water amount  - so we'd have 50.5% water and 10% aloe vera in the heated water phase. If we wanted to add 0.5% powdered green tea exract to the cool down phase, we'd remove 0.5% from the water amount, so we'd have 60% water in the heated water phase. If we wanted to add more oil to this product - let's say 4% more evening primrose oil - we have to remove that 4% from the water amount - meaning we have now 56.5% water - and add more emulsifier.

If we are using Polawax, we want to use 25% of the oil phase in the emulsifier. So if we have 20% oil phase, we would use 5% Polawax. If we have 24% oil phase, we would use 6% emulsifier. And so on. So if we add 4% more oil, we must add 1% more emulsifier. So we would remove a total of 5% from the water phase. (4% more oil, 1% emulsifier.) To learn more, please visit this post in the FAQ.

And yes, if we reduce or eliminate something, we increase the water amount.

As a note, on a lot of recipes, you'll see the term "water q.s.", which means to add as much water as you need to reach 100%. I tried this on a few recipes but found it frustrating when I was in the middle of formulating in the workshop to do that little bit of extra math, so I don't use it. 

Remember too that if we go around reducing the water amount all the time, it means our product might be thicker than the original.

We know that dry skin really likes humectants, so let's add a second one. I really like sodium lactate, but it can make us sun sensitive at more than 3%, so let's put that in at 2.5% in the heated water phase. (Remove 2.5% water.) You can use another humectant you like - for instance, Hydrovance or sodium PCA - at whatever level is suggested.

And I really like allantoin as an occlusive ingredient as well as one that softens skin, so let's add that at 0.5% in the heated water phase.

As a note, I know there are some people who swear by using allantoin in the cool down phase. It can handle heat, and as we know, solubility of an ingredient increases when we increase the heat. This is why I use it in my heated water phase. I have never had a problem with shards, so I would argue that my way is super effective! 

HEATED WATER PHASE
57.5% water
3% glycerin or other humectant of choice
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2.5% sodium lactate
0.5% allantoin

Notice my water amount has changed to include the new ingredients...

Well, this is getting really long, so join me tomorrow as we modify the heated oil phase and cool down phase further! 

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