Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Six ingredient lotion: Kukui nut & babassu oil with Polawax or e-wax

Yesterday we took a look at how to make a six ingredient lotion with kukui nut & babassu oil with Ritamulse SCG. Today, let's modify that recipe for those of you with Polawax or e-wax.

Recipes made with Ritamulse SCG tend to be thicker than those made with Polawax or e-wax, and a lot thicker than those made with Lotionpro 165. If you want to adapt a Ritamulse SCG lotion for one with Polawax, remember the 25% rule! (And remember, this rule is only for Polawax.) Figure out the size of your oil phase, which is to say you'll calculate your oil soluble ingredients.

KUKUI NUT & BABAUSS OIL LOTION RECIPE WITH RITAMULSE SCG
WATER PHASE
60% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

OIL PHASE
8% Ritamulse SCG
12% babassu oil
12% kukui nut oil

COOL DOWN
3% honeyquat
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

In this case, the oil phase is 12 + 12 = 24. (We add up the oil soluble ingredients, which would be the oil and butter.) Then we multiply by 0.25 (or divide by 4) and get the result. This means we would use 6% Polawax. (Add 2% back to the water amount to have the recipe total 100%).

If you are using e-wax, you generally use 25% of the oil phase plus 1%. Calculate to get the Polawax amount of 6%. Now add 1% to that for 7% e-wax.

Should we thicken this product? We could. It will be thinner than the version we made yesterday, but not by a huge amount. It will be the thickness of a body or hand lotion. Should we change any other ingredients? No, I really like this lotion and think it works with the ingredients we used yesterday!

KUKUI NUT & BABASSU OIL LOTION RECIPE WITH POLAWAX
WATER PHASE
62% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

OIL PHASE
6% Polawax
12% babassu oil
12% kukui nut oil

COOL DOWN
3% honeyquat
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product.

If you want to use another emulsifier, then follow the rules for that emulsifier. For Lotionpro 165, you'd want to reduce the emulsifier to 4% and add 2% to the water amount. If you're using Incroquat BTMS-50, I'd reduce it to 4% or 5% or you'll get a very thick lotion. 

Join me on Thursday for more fun with six ingredient lotions! 

1 comment:

Shannon Marie said...

Oh my God! I just made this with squalane and camellia seed oil as the two oils and it is amazing! I love the six ingredient lotion series!