Saturday, April 4, 2015
Weekend Wonderings: Reminder about the soapmaking challenge. Phenoxyethanol and polysorbates!
We had great fun making gummies (video) and lollipops at craft group this week! Click on the links to see how to make these at home!
Don't forget about Kevin Dunn's soapmaking challenge! He's had no submissions so far, which kinda weirds me out as there were some very vocal soapmakers who should have jumped at the chance to prove me and the other doubters out there wrong. I really am eager to see what the results might be!
Choosing a preservative, Tammy asks: I was wondering about the combination of Optiphen Plus and Polysorbate 20. I was participating in an online forum today with a formulator (from Microformulations in the US) and he mentioned that polysorbate and other surfactants can deactivate phenoxyethanol. I can't seem to find any other reference to that online or in your blog. What do you think? I had never heard this so I've been using Optiphen Plus to preserve my cleansers, foaming soaps, and sprayable lotions (all of which contain polysorbate 20 for the FOs or EOs) and I haven't noticed a problem -- yet.
I've never heard this before, either, but I found this reference at Making Skincare*, "Phenoxyethanol is inactivited by highly ethoxylated compounds including polysorbates so do not use with surfactants." This means we would want to keep it away from things containing polysorbate 20 or 80. Not all our surfactants are ethoxylated - for instance, decyl glucoside and cocamidopropyl betaine, according to this post at Chemist's Corner.
*Making Skincare is a great site filled with loads of information from the chemist, Jane Barber. Add this to your list of reputable sites, if you haven't already.
So which preservatives contain phenoxyethanol? Optiphen, Optiphen ND, Optiphen Plus, Liquipar Optima, Liquipar PE, and Phenonip. To be on the safe side, don't use these in products that contain polysorbate 20 or 80 or any of the foamy and bubbly surfactants like SLeS.
Which preservatives could you use if you're in doubt? Liquid Germall Plus, which we all know is my favourite, Germaben II, Geogard Ultra, or Cosmocil CQ combined with a fungicide.
Join me tomorrow for more fun with your comments!