Sunday, March 1, 2015

Making a water-in-silicone serum with niacinamide and n-acetyl glucosamine

As I mentioned on Thursday, making a water-in-silicone serum is pretty easy when you use Lotioncrafter Serum SE. The hardest part is choosing ingredients to add to it! This is a perfect place to use all those lovely actives and cosmeceuticals you've been hoarding for a rainy day!

I'm having a love affair with niacinamide right now, and I've been including it in everything! It's been demonstrated to reduce transepidermal water loss at 2% and it can help reduce sebum production.

And I'm having a love affair with this new ingredient carried by Lotioncrafter, n-acetyl glucosamine*.  It is a bio-identical ingredient that can reduce hyperpigmentation in the skin, and has been shown to work well when combined with niacinamide. It can also increase hydration of our skin by increasing the production of hyaluronic acid in our skin.

37% Lotioncrafter serum SE
10% propylene glycol

0.25% sodium citrate
0.50% sodium chloride (salt)
0.50% liquid Germall Plus (preservative)
2% panthenol (liquid)
4% n-acetyl glucosamine
2% niacinamide
2% oat protein
0.5% allantoin
41.25% distilled water

Note: It's better to use a hand mixer than a stick blender here. And because you'll be mixing for 10 to 15 minutes, one on a stand is even better!

Combine all the phase A ingredients into a container. Combine all the phase B ingredients into a container and mix well. Add phase B to phase A in a steady stream and mix for 10 to 15 minutes until the emulsion is smooth. I mixed for 10 minutes, and it turned out simply awesome!

If you don't have these ingredients - by which I mean the various actives - then feel free to try something different. You can add small amounts of oil soluble ingredients because the serum SE is an emulsifier, so you could try things like co-enzyme Q10 or oil soluble extracts, like this green tea extract I like so much. You could try resveratrol or Matrixyl 3000. Or try beta glucan in place of the oat protein. Play around with the ingredients and see what you like.

As a note, the propylene glycol is necessary in this recipe. You could, in theory, use glycerin in its place, but it can get kinda sticky.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at more things we can make in our workshops!


melian1 said...

My skin can’t tolerate the propylene glycol, but it is fine with butylene glycol. As near as I can tell from my reading, these two are interchangeable and accomplish the same things for the skin. Is that true?

The study referenced here:
says “Researchers found that the topical application of a N-acetyl glucosamine (4 percent) and niacinamide (2 percent) complex produced visible improvement in pigmentation after 8 weeks.”

So upping the percents when I make it might be a good thing for someone like me who has begun to have dark sun-damaged places.

It also indicated that the combination of niacinamide and glucosamine (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) demonstrated significant skin lightening in patients. “Additionally, the panel concluded that a formulation of n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide, a vitamin B derivative, significantly reduced the amount and appearance of hyperpigmentation, age spots and uneven melanin distribution. Researchers paired n-acetyl glucosamine with niacinamide because they knew that niacinamide had similar effects on slowing down pigment production and hypothesized that the two might work better together.”

The link isn’t the actual study, tho. I couldn’t seem to click on anything that took me to the actual study.

sorry for the deleted post above. i needed to make a correction and didn't know how to edit, so i deleted and am re-posting.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi melian! Isn't it frustrating that you can't edit comments? I can't either, so I have to re-write and post again! ARGH!

They are almost interchangeable. There are a few variations of the glycol that will work for our skin, like hexylene glycol.

Here are a few studies that might interest you...
The effect of NAG on stratum corneum desquamation and water content in human skin
NAG: Product and applications
Topical formulation...
More on the spots, abstract I can get the full study on EBSCO host, but I can't post a link to it here. Sorry...

Christopher said...

Susan, will you be making more youtube videos? Love the ones you've already made!

Nanette said...

How do you determine the correct percentages of powdered ingredients? 2% of powder A could weigh significantly more than 2% of Powder B.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nanette. 2 grams of one thing is the same weight as 2 grams of the other thing. That's why we use weighted measurements instead of volume.

Hi Christopher! Yes, I have a few coming up shortly. It's just been a crazy year with little time for workshop video fun!

melian1 said...

thanks susan! sorry to be slow getting back to this. i appreciate the studies. tucked them into my notes.

Julia Paramor said...

Hi Susan
I have been using n-actyl glucosamine at 2% and Niacinamide at 4% and really happy with rusults. I have recently come across a corn derived NAG - with the same INCI as the shellfish derived ingredient, do you think it will have the same properties - I can't find any info - Many thanks

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Julia. A molecule is a molecule no matter where it comes from. For instance, we can get Vitamin C from an orange, a lime, or an apple, and it will still be Vitamin C. In the case of NAG, it's the same regardless of where it originates. It will have the same properties.

Chris said...

Hey Susan,
Do you know what phase NAG should go into? Can it handle heat?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Chris! As per this listing at Lotioncrafter, it is to go in the cool down phase.

Srjnm said...

I have experimented with many of your formulas to customize it to my needs. This formula is one of my favorites! It applies on smooth and silky. It is lovely and I’ve received positive feedback from those I’ve provided samples. I've made it couple times already in small quantities and will be making this on a regular basis. Yea, this is a keeper!
I removed the sodium chloride and added other goodies such as DMAE or Bamboo Bio Ferment and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) you can get at LotionCrafter. This is the best alternative of vitamin C I can find.
I followed the direction you provided. Mine emulsified very quickly when I combined both phases. I didn’t have to mix too long.
Here is the formula I used.
Phase A
37% Serum SE
10% Propylene Glycol

Phase B
.25 Sodium Citrate
.5% DMAE or Bamboo BioFerment
1% Panthenol
1% Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
4% N-acetyl Glucosamine
2% Niacinamide
2% Oat Protein
.5% Allantion
.5% Germall
41.25% water